June 16^th

One Mole hill becomes a Mountain, and a bit of heaven shines upon us

The day dawned bringing an end to the sun and tailwinds; well that’s not true as the sun has never really set but you get the point. We dressed in our finest rain gear packed our tents/ gear and pondered the validity of climbing a Mountain obscured by cloud. I was in a right mood, feeling rather strong I think due to the hot Thai tea I had with Breakfast pedaling along singing Mr. Fahrenheit, by Queen in my head (don’t ask). It seemed as though I was prepared for the weather and the ensuing climb,  I was feeling good about the muddy road, wet cold rain and the looming pass.

During this trip and subsequent others we have come to a conclusion; Anyone traveling in a car has NO concept of grade or distance. This has been apparent to us for some time but now has slaps us in the face hard. As we are climbing up the road leading to the pass after I assumed every rise was the pass, we are stopped by a couple of guys in a truck who ask the usual questions “were you going? How far did you ride? Were you from?We answer, then I open my big mouth and ask the obvious question “how far is the pass?” and the driver says with not much hesitation 2 mi. We both look at each other and share a secret smile, in our minds we are thinking ‘we’ve done it! The pass is ours today and it wasn’t that hard’…Stupid minds! The passenger flashes 5 fingers that goes unnoticed by me but Todd picks this up, we soon find out that the 5 fingers is just right. Goodbyes are said and we pedal onward slowly climbing to the magical pass that seems to have been so easy to conquer. Just like the man says 2 miles later we come to the sign for Atigun pass there it is on the side of road marking our triumph. Off the bikes we go cameras ready and we snap a couple of photos, as we are taking the pic’s the clouds part a bit and I notice a road leading steeply up a hill. You could hear a pin drop as we stare in disbelief at what lies before us snaking up the side of the mountain, out of sight is the true pass another 3mi and 1000 ft away.

The drizzle continues as we make our way up the steep slope zigzagging across the road just to make the bikes move up the hill, my inclinometer bouncing between 9 and 11% if I keep the bike straight not done easily. After a while we are able to see the true pass and it is still a long way off. With the cold rain and grade stopping for any length of time is not a good idea but soon a truck approaches, two guys who had passed us on the side of the road stop to ask us how we are doing and if we saw the Big Male Grizzly in the ditch across the road from where we stopped to get water. Stunned Both Todd and I look at each other with a sense of sorrow and relief that we didn’t encounter this Giant furry possible man eater. We both reply No! and the passenger says he saw him walking up the ditch towards us but as the truck approached he had taken off up the hill. After this news I was on Bear Stalking Humans ALERT!! Senses and tensions were high for at least 10min until I forgot about the bear and was forced to put all my energy into climbing this never ending hill.

As we gained altitude the temperature dropped steadily from the 45 degrees in the valley to a intolerable 38 degrees as we approached the summit. Both of us cold and wanting to get off this mountain we didn’t even stop at the top for a picture, not that there was a sign to take one of. So we sped off down the other side of the pass into a freezing headwind and a long steep bone chilling brake weakening descent. About half way down I noticed that I was starting to get a tingling in my hands and my face was also starting to tingle, I had been doing a steady breathing rate on the climb and had not stopped this breathing as I now descended. Soon I was having stomach muscle cramps and it was then I knew I wasn’t just freezing cold I was hyperventilating, I immediately slowed my breathing rate and the tingling started to go away, as I did this I also had to slow down and I was steadily getting colder as the moments ticked bye, I needed to stop and get warm ASAP!

I noticed off the side of the road a truck parked in a small gravel pit behind a gate. I motioned to Todd that I needed to stop and headed around the gate I made a beeline for the leeward side of the truck. Just on chance I tried the door and it was open I motioned for Todd to follow me and we climbed in out of the wind and rain, safe at least for the moment. Finally out of the cold rain and howling wind I could explain my need to stop Todd  agreed it was a good idea. Looking around the truck I noticed that the keys were in it so I turned the key and with a sound only a diesel can make it roared to life, in about 10 minutes we had 67 degree warmth so I turned off the truck. Safe inside we are able to relax…but not for long.

A truck stops, a large imposing figure approaches, pausing first to inspect our bikes he soon knocks on the truck door and opens it. Fearing we would be kicked to the ground and beaten to within an inch of our lives we cringe as the door swings. To our delight a friendly face appears and a “what’s going on”? is asked. We come to learn the man’s name is Robert and after telling him our story he lets us know that he doesn’t care but the foreman might come up here and throw a conniption fit at the site of us in one of the company trucks. We inform him we’re just getting warm, changing clothes and will be gone in 20min he say the boss is occupied so we should be alright. Before he leave he lets us know that he won’t say a word and heads back to the truck and down to the work site from where he came.

After Robert leaves I notice another cyclist walking a bike up the mountain and the waiting storm, I exit the vehicle and frantically wave this cyclist over to us to get warm and dry, the cyclist Just points to the Mtn and continues pushing the bike up the hill. Later we would find out this is an Italian Guy who gave the Pilot Car people a bunch of crap for making him stop riding and take a ride in the truck maybe he was getting a little payback form Alaska for making trouble.

About 10min later another truck arrives, 2 more guys including Robert get out ‘Now were done for I think’ and I quickly get ready for the excessive  amount of explaining I’ll be doing on behalf of Todd and Myself. I hop out of the truck, slowly approaching the older man who looks like a guy of authority, when I ask if he’s the foreman he shrugs and says “heck no”. I tell him the same story I told Robert he just nods, asks me a few questions about the trip and says he also doesn’t care if we use the truck and even offers to turn it on for us. I can’t tell you what a relief it was to have such nice guys find us in the company truck. To add a sugar coating they returned a few minutes later with snacks and water for us to take with. I want to say a big thank you to Robert and Big AL (Alyeska Pipeline) for the hospitality when we so desperately needed it.

Warm and dry we have to make a decision. Robert told us of a pullout across the highway we could tent up at, but Todd was adamant about leaving this mountain. I on the other hand was warm, dry and did not want to leave the cozy truck, sadly I knew it would have to be, the Boss might find us first, that aggravation we didn’t need. So the decision was made and out into the cold wet weather we ventured. Back on the bikes we made a hasty escape and continued down the mountain pass hoping that as we descended the weather would break and the temps would finally increase enough to sustain life. We passed by the guys as they were working on the pipeline with a honk from my 120d Horn we said goodbye, it was the last we would see of these kind individuals. The drizzle didn’t let up but the temp finally crept up a few degrees, and I could feel a sense of normalcy finally creep into my day. The rain was tolerable the wind had all but disappeared and we were slowly moving forward towards and unknown camp another 23 miles away.

I had concentrated on getting as far from the pass as possible that I hadn’t noticed that Todd was no longer with me. I stopped and in the distance I could make out a figure coming my way, when he arrived he was almost unrecognizable. Todd was covered head to toe in mud…Let me explain. I built my bike with fenders front and rear so I could stay dry and less muddy Todd had listened to a local mechanic who had told him he didn’t need a fender on the front so poor Todd was covered in a nice layer of grey salty mud, I had a good laugh and suddenly the day seemed brighter.

With one short climb to go we summited, then plunged into a valley we would cycle through for the next 2 days. It was unlike anything we had seen on the trip so far, we had finally left the low-lying brush behind and entered the realm of Spruce trees. In fact on the left hand side of the road I notice a sign next to a Dead Spruce saying “This is the farthest North Spruce on the Alaska Pipeline, DO NOT CUT!!” this sign with all of its good intention had only encouraged the idiots of the world to action and they had all taken enough of a piece of the base that the tree finally died, probably of sadness at being cut when it only wanted to be left alone. To give some credit to the AK Highways Dept. they wisely DIDN”T place a new sign next to the NOW Farthest Spruce tree right across the road, hopefully this will save it for future generations to enjoy.

The road continued its downward trend in a roller-coaster fashion until we spotted a nice campsite a ways away from the road on the banks of the silted river, the sun was starting to shine and the air was warm with the promise of dryness, this would not last. Soon the clouds moved in and the sun in a desperate attempt to shine through danced in and out of view casting its rays all around until suddenly and quite unexpectedly a Rainbow appeared above our tents, I kneel on the side of the river to take a picture of this beautiful site, just then the last ray of sun disappear and the heavens open up I duck into my tent thankful to be warm and dry….I went to bed thinking about how we had survived the frigid Mountain pass, been shown kindness by the locals and how had God smiled upon us right before he drenched us once again.

Race to Gobblers knob!

The sky looks good as we prepare to leave the warm embrace of a 5 star luxury trailer. On the bikes was set sail once again picking up pavement as we leave Coldfoot behind and start the short steep climb I thought might do me in yesterday. The hills bob up and down with the terrain, in no time we are half way through our ride miles. Stopping for a break at a large river it doesn’t take long to notice the clouds are darkening and the air is taking on the familiar scent of rain. Looking to the east we see a large system moving slowly in our direction, we spring into action moving swiftly up the hill out of the valley, we set a pace to race the storm. Luck is on our side and the road for the next 15 or so miles is relatively flat in comparison to the hills we’ve done before, we speed along at a high of 12mph for about ten miles before we can look back long enough to assess the direction the storm is headed. Stopping we see for the first time the tell tale dwelling of a beaver, we now know we are entering an area with more chances to see animals. We stand for a while hoping to get a glimpse of this industrious mammal, but alas there is no sighting. We leave our beaver home, confident we’ve dodged a storm bullet the pace settles down to a more manageable speed.

We’re passing through a landscape of trees that look like they have been ravaged by disease, or a bark beetle perhaps they are sickly and detract from the beauty around us; even with the rolling hills there is just not much to take pictures of. In the distance looms yet another climb. We have been given names of obstacles like “Beaver Slide”, “Gobblers Knob" , “Connection Rock", “Sand Hill” and "The Roller Coaster" but we have no idea what the next in line is, so we pedal on the pavement  intermittent as we approach Pump Station 5. Past The pump station we start what is at first a gradual climb that soon turns in to an 8% dirt road leading to a summit we can’t see. We take our time since we are close to the miles we want to do for the day there is no hurry. About three quarters of the way up we see a sign for a Photo turnout in 1 mile so we guess this to be the summit as we round the corner a sign comes into view that announce we have just climbed Gobblers Knob, 1 down 4 to go! There are bathrooms and Garbage cans at the parking area, we take advantage of these, we eat dinner on the wooden observation deck / info center. Across the road is a nice big turnout for the trucks it could also be used for camping. If you follow the little road of the side you’ll come to a gate go around the left side, up the hill a short ways is a road leading to a gravel pit it’s a perfect place to camp with a commanding view of the Brooks Range and surrounding landscape. 

We spent the day running from storms not wanting to have a repeat of the last few days; we summited a major climb and enjoyed dinner on a wooden deck instead of the dirt. With one of the 5 Major obstacles conquered we settle in for the night, our camp is perched high above the road with a sweeping panoramic of the valley and Mountains behind, with a slight breeze not even the mosquitoes are around to lull us to sleep.

 June 19^th

Crossing the Arctic Circle and 2 for the price of 1??

Last night was excellent the wind was calm the temperature cool and the trucks were far enough away to not be a bother. Waking up to partly sunny skies we take our time packing, eat our traditional cyclist breakfast and take in the vastness that is Alaska.

Today promises to be a landmark for both of us. Sometime in the next 17 miles we will cross the Arctic Circle, leaving the Arctic behind and enter the Northern Temperate Zone. I am especially excited since this is one of 5 major Circles of Latitude that mark maps of the Earth I will be passing through at least 3 more during my travels. It falls about 66 ° 33' 44, north of the Equator. With the Circle on our minds we set off to finish the rest of the Hill and see what lies around the next rise.

The road turns to pavement, winds up for a while then suddenly plunges on what will be our fastest descent of the trip 46.6 MPH. Descending we enter a flat area with marshes on either side, trailing behind Todd I see him come to a sudden stop. As I approach I see what has caused the brakes to be applied. On our left hand side in a bright green stand of grass is a large Bull Moose. He watches us for a minute as I fumble with my cameras, slowly and with purpose he turns and walks into the trees pausing for a moment, he gives us one more look before disappearing. Todd was lucky enough to get a good picture of the beautiful animal with its head turned towards him, I got the less glamorous end!

On wildlife alert we pedal on slowly looking in each marsh, bog and stand of trees for the next wild Alaskan creature we see nothing much the rest of the trip. The road stays flat for a spell until we approach yet another long climb with a summit we wish we could see but are not privy to. We start the ascent the inclinometer steadily ticking the numbers upward 5,6,7,8…9% grade for the first mile then a steady decrease to a manageable 6%. About half way up I see a sign for “Connection Rock National Monument” I stop take a look around for this ‘rock’, in the small clearing on the left side of the road there it is a Big rock, no different looking than most rocks except for the plaque that has been mounted on it stating “Connection Rock National Historic Monument 1974” I snap a photo, mount my bike and pedal on pondering the meaning of said rock. I learn later it is the meeting point of the North and South bound Highway crews who after many long days met here in the summer of 1974.

With one more major climb bagged we sail down the other side, watching the speedometer for the miles to tick away letting me know I am getting close to the Arctic Circle. Todd stops ahead and points to a sign saying “Arctic Circle 1 mile” but instead of being a mile further it is actually a turn off so we make the left turn onto to a gravel road , about 100 yards later we are standing in front of the sign marking the official Arctic Circle. We are setting ourselves up for a picture when a nice couple from South Africa comes over, she asks if we would like our photo taken, we pose and Snap we have the official photo of us crossing this invisible line on the earth. Todd and I talk to them for a while and learn that they met in Africa, she was Hitchhiking he is from the Netherlands and was driving overland and since that moment they have been traveling together sharing adventures all over the globe.

After lunch we head back to the Haul Road and cruise down to Prospect creek to get water. We are immediately surround by the most voracious mosquitoes we have yet encountered, there are too many to count and even though it is 70 degrees we put on our cold weather gear to filter water, it is the only time they are this bad, most of the time they are tolerable but annoying none the less. With the bottles and the extra water bag filled we continue our downward trend, until Todd and I come to a screeching halt, there looming in the distance is the ugliest hill we have ever seen or will see. The approach to it is shallow but suddenly it pitches straight and I do mean straight up the side of a mountain in one of scariest looking lines we will see the entire time…..Welcome to Beaver Slide.

Mosquitoes are from HELL !!! from Aaron Lisco on Vimeo.

We had been warned about this climb. I personally thought we had climbed it already but the hill we climbed looked like a bump compared to this monster. For some reason and we have yet to discover why a lot of the hills we come to have pavement on the tops and bottoms but NOT on the actual climb, is it an icing and snow pack preventative ?? We don’t know, all we do know is that climbing an 11% grade for 2+ miles on pavement is hard, it is downright terrible on dirt, but we have no choice because here it is and we have to get over it. I reach into my bag for some super fuel and pull out a Snickers bar; eating it slowly as if it is the last one on earth I am only prolonging the inevitable. Soon I’ll have to face it, but my legs are asking me to stop I can hear them whimpering at the sight of it, for a moment I even catch my thumb trying to commit mutiny and stick it’s self out for a ride, I slap it down and give the legs a good shaking to sober them up. I look to my computer to see how long it will take to climb this grotesque feature and with a sigh that can be heard for at least a mile I attack Beaver Slide with the gusto of an old lady crossing the road, an Hour and 15 minutes later I am standing at the top.

Three down two to go!  After a much needed rest and recuperation at the top we gather what’s left of our energy and take the plunge down the other side. The road off  Beaver slide is paved and soon we find ourselves crossing a nice river with a large pullout on the left side, seeing this as an opportunity to camp we call it a day after only 28mi and 2 of the hardest climbs we have done in 1 day. The area we are in has a slight wind so the mosquitoes are not a bother and the view of the valley is worth the stop even if you don’t want to camp. There is even fishing here and I have imagined Todd will be catching some fish to add to the nights menu, but alas this is not the case even though he did give it his best effort, the fish are just to stubborn.

We bagged two climbs today, crossed an imaginary yet important line on the map and met some friendly people who love to travel as much as we do…. It has been a fantastic day full of surprises and it’s no surprise I can wait to go to sleep.

June 21^st

 How many "chickens" were there supposed to be??

The day dawns bright (laugh here) there is no dawn. Anyway the sun is out the sky is blue it’s a beautiful day. Todd and I plan on being on the road @ 11am a late start so we can take full advantage of the facilities; it is a mistake we won’t make again. We leave on schedule making our way back to the road so we can cross the Yukon River. For some reason we will never fully comprehend, the last 2 days of rain were not enough for the highway crew, because they are watering the road thus turning a nice dirt road into mud. We get just enough mud on us before we start the 6% climb across the Yukon bridge yes I said climb to make the going even more slow. Half way across the bridge a voice form above announces “it’s dangerous to be on the bridge” no Todd and I are not hearing the almighty there is a loudspeaker system on the bridge and some concerned individual is telling us how he feels. We wave as if we have any clue were this person is and continue on ,once again the voice warns us of the danger then says “have a nice day”, we’ll at least they’re courteous.

We finish the bridge without incident, though the danger is real,  the bridge is not that wide so 2 trucks passing each other with us on the bridge could be BAD for all involved. The mud continues on the other side so we trudge uphill until I just can’t pedal the bike any further the mud is sticking to my tyres slowing me down to the point walking is faster, it’s not that the mud is thick it is just so sticky it is like Velcro hard to separate my tyre as they turn. As I am walking my heavily laden cycle, along come 2 antique cars I would guess from the 20’s or 30s. Beautifully restored and then taken on the Dalton to be degraded to a state of needing further restoration we guess. I walk the first 3 hills until I see the last of the mud, we stop in a pullout and spend the next 40 minutes removing glue from the tread of our tyres. After some discussion I am convinced that the water truck guy was out to get us; here’s how I see it. When the water truck approached us he wasn’t watering the lower part of the road but as soon as he passed us he opened up the valve and dowsed the road but only on our side, when we saw him come down the road he didn’t water the other side, and as he passed he gave us a real hard look and didn’t wave back even though I waved. Maybe it’s in my head maybe not, in the end we beat the water truck guy but only just, he was coming up the hill to douse the road again when we sprang into action and pedaled further than his truck would go, OK not really a victory the turnout was as far as he was going, but to us it was sweet to savor. For the record I did leave the turnout first screaming “Run Todd run!  The water truck is coming, oh the humanity Todd run, you’re going to be squished run man run, pack faster! Sorry Todd I must save myself! I’ll tell your next of kin!”….. yes I left Todd to be squished and I deeply regret it, thankfully he was quick to respond and made it out alive.

The sad truth is I left Todd to be Squished... from Aaron Lisco on Vimeo.

Mud free and on dry dirt again we continue our upward trend with a head wind for company that will be with us the entire day. We pass small ponds that at first look really nice until you get a close look and see that the water is the color of Coffee no cream, this water color will be the norm from here on out even in the streams it runs tinted brown, though we find a couple that are clearer we never get away from the tannin colored water. We were told about all the climbs and obstacles before the Yukon but no one mentioned the long ups and downs that come after, we would do over 4000 FT of climbing in just 38mi the pavement would come and go and the wind would always turn to become a headwind no matter what. Water on this side of the Yukon becomes more spread out with a potential stream every 8-10 miles. So stocking up is a good idea especially if you come later in the year as some of these small streams may be dry.

While stopped at one of the large paved pullouts on the top of a hill we witnessed a massive piece of equipment being brought up the road, it was so large they shut the road down in both directions. The lead car had stopped so I went over and asked the lady about the closure, she said coming up the road is a truck pulling a trailer that is 235ft long the cargo is 21ft wide 25ft tall and weighs 200,000lb it is so long the rear end also steers to make the corners. Waiting for the behemoth to arrive we could hear it long before we could see it , the sound was like an aircraft taking off, and when it came into view it was impressive, trailing behind it were 2 push trucks and a 3^rd that had went ahead. As soon as the road opens we speed down the other side only to repeat the process again as we face another long climb.

  Eventually we descend and come to Hess Creek, find a very nice shaded area off to the right with access to the water on the other side of the bridge. You can camp here it looks like a good spot even if it is close to the road. We went up the road a bit to a service road on the left side and ate lunch behind a small gravel mound. After a long break it was decided that the hill leading out of Hess Creek was too much for me and the amount of climbing while not known at the time had taken its toll and I was ready for camp. I scouted back on the service road about ½ mi and found a nice flat area with s clear stream running across the road so the decision was made to camp.

Today we learned that leaving later is a bad idea, the winds and heat pick up and make the going even tougher, that the roads never get easier just longer and harder and even if you turn the wind will turn with you and always be in your face.....never count your chickens a resounding theme for today.

June 22^nd

Goodbye Old friend…

The decision to camp turned out to be a good one, because the hill we would of climbed yesterday was a 6% 4.5mi long sucker. I think we both would have collapsed from exhaustion and been found in a heap on the side of the road, probably under our bikes as we would have been too tired to remove them, oh! I shiver at the thought. Well the good news is we did camp and tackled the hill the next day, for those of you interested there is a nice gravel at the saddle for camping I assume it is a good place out of the wind. Today was an exact repeat of yesterday long climbs, road closures, scarce water and steep climbs alternating from dirt to pavement and back? The only 2 exceptions for today are 1: we met another cycle tourist named Remy headed North, and 2: we finished the Dalton highway and left Dirt behind for good.

Remy; we were about 3 miles from the end of the Dalton when we came across Remy finish up a steep uphill. I about flipped out at the site of him , we had been on the road for over 400mi and had seen NO other cyclist along the way, well we did see 2 in a van but until the tyres hit the dirt they don’t count. Remy is from Toronto, Canada and cycled up to Fairbanks in just 30 days, he took 1 rest day off and was continuing on up to Deadhorse, Remy is trying to be the first person to log the most cycled miles in a 12 month period something like 62,000km or so. He was going pretty light weight and doing big mile 150-200 a day which if he keeps that up combined with 1 rest day every 30 days his body will give out, I’m sorry it’s just not possible in my opinion. He spoke a kind of broken French/English so we had a hard time understanding something’s, what’s clear is, he is a man on a mission, Gods speed Remy!! take a look at his site @ www.remilafreniere.com

The end of the Dalton; Right after we left Remy we made the final hill of the Dalton Highway. It was a bittersweet moment, as I stood in front of the James Dalton sign, we had a constant companion with us for so long and now it would be replaced with a hectic highway full of cars, litter and a not so remote feeling. Sure enough the traffic increased and the litter was everywhere which took away that remote feeling. We also knew that time on the road was coming to an end, well at least for one of us, we would be in Fairbanks in another day and the end of a journey would come and the start of a whole new chapter for me begins.

GoodBye Dalton Highway from Aaron Lisco on Vimeo.

June 23^rd

We are hoping to make it to Fairbanks today but it’s not looking like it. Last night’s camp next to the Colorado Creek Trail Head turnout was great; few bugs, dry earth and far enough away from the road to be easy on the ears. If you’re looking for a place to camp, on the right side of the road next to the bridge (opposite of the information center and bathrooms) is a real nice cleared area probably meant for RV’s but works great for Cyclist as well.

Our first full day on the Elliot highway and things could not be more different. We see more cars, buses and trucks headed in every direction than we saw the entire time on the Dalton, it’s not to say there is no traffic on the Haul Road it’s just not in the volume it is on this road. We also see trash all over the sides of the road, not a lot at first but as the day goes on and we get closer to civilization it gets worse and worse, I am saddened at the site of it all ( no pics to depressing ). We climb the first of many hills today but on the other side of this one instead of a steep descent it has a nice gradual flowing downhill that deposits us at the front door to a store called “The Arctic Circle Trading Post” and a nice man named Joe.

Welcome to Joy, AK ;yes it is a real place and we happen to meet the Mayor, who is also the trading post owner/operator homesteader as well as a used car salesman, handyman,  master tour guide , and jack of all trades. Joe and his wife moved up to Joy in the summer of 74 with 8 kids 5 of their own and 3 adopted. Joe and his wife have had over 40 foster kids and adopted over 18 in the 35+ years they have lived here they have seen them all grow up and move on, now he has grandkids coming to help out in the summers. Over the years they went from a kids lemonade stand servicing the workers on the Haul road, to a full blown trading post, selling all kinds of knickknacks to all manner of people. If you are headed this way stop by he is super kind to the cycling crowd and would love to chat you up about life and everything in between. We leave the trading post full of coffee and muffins and make our way down the road and onto the next big climb.

(As a Side Note) While at the trading post I noticed a picture on the wall, the pic is of the guide we met in Yukon River camp, “shuttle” JOE  I wanted to say thanks to JOE for the water he gave me as he was passing by with his tour group, JOE is a real nice guy and I really appreciated the fresh water.

  The scenery has become more open, as we make our way up to the top of each hill we get a great view of the places we have been and the places we will be going. We do about 38mi before calling it quits for the day, the thought of trying to get to Fairbanks in one long day are just to much, Todd instigates the stoppage the first real sign that he is starting to wear down a bit. We end up next to Washington creek there is NO shade but easy access to the water and it is running a bit clearer than past streams so that’s a plus. We make a quick shelter of bikes and rain fly’s and have a snooze in the afternoon waiting for the sun to go down a bit before setting up camp. I don’t recommend camping here it really does suck, the sun was up on the horizon until 11:30 and I roasted in my tent like a well seasoned duck for hours before it finally cooled off enough to sleep.

Tomorrow we role into Fairbanks and say goodbye to the magical ride we have been on and hello to the city life once again.

June 24^th

The end of the road for some….

I was so glad to be leaving the oven I had been sleeping in and get back on the road. I know you’re tired of reading this and I am tired of writing it but here it is …we climbed yet another hill up and down all day long nothing to report except seeing 2 moose cross the road and the increase in traffic and trash on the roads especially the Beer cans, seems Coors and Bud light 2 of the worst beers on the planet are the favorites of the idiots that drink and drive in this state. I could rant on about it but I won’t. To make the miles go by faster i played with mu long Shadow on the road.

Shadows are cool I think this might be a first ever Shadow video from Aaron Lisco on Vimeo.

We stopped at the ‘Hilltop’ truck stop for a second breakfast and while standing there the waitress asks us were we’re coming from we tell her about starting at Deadhorse, she then looks at my jersey which is my ‘Mt Borah Wheels 4 Life official ride jersey’ looks at me then says “ you rode down from Deadhorse? Turn around” so I do, she then says “ Very Nice”  I turn back around and look at Todd I say; “see I told you people like the Jersey” the waitress then says “ Honey I wasn’t looking at the Jersey!! ” It then dawns on me I was just eyed up by our waitress who was not shy about doing it, at least my Butt seems to be getting better looking , ideally it is probably the Mt Borah custom shorts making it look good or she was just frisky, no matter I felt pretty good about it.

Along the Elliot highway is a town called Fox unless you need a candy bar or a sugar fix there is no need to stop here, they have no phones and except for the lady being nice enough to send a message to our friend in Fairbanks nothing in this town is worth talking about.

After fox and just before the LAST major hill into Fairbanks there is a real nice park built around a section of the Pipeline with a lot of good info on the whole system, we stopped and read the signs and were glad we did, they also have Porta-potties forbathrooms. The last hill leers at you and looks to be steeper than it is. Ascend the hill and there is a false hill you will ride over depositing you into Fairbanks. We stopped at a petrol station to call a friend we would be staying with while here, he rode out to meet us and guided us back to his Cabin about 15miles form town, I was so tired from the hills today I had to walk a couple short ones that weren’t that steep, my wheels stopped turning in his driveway and have not moved since. As much as I’ll miss the Dalton I was happy to be in FB and looking forward to a shower and relaxing for a few days while I get my knee sorted out and plan the next section.

In the end I decided to return to Maui the next day and have Dr. Davidson look at my knee again so he can fix whatever is wrong, so I have been on Maui for a week. Todd packed his stuff and flew back to San Francisco the next day as well we said goodbye in Seattle.

Taking a look back on the first two weeks and the ride down the Dalton Highway, I am so glad I started my trip on this road and from the place I did. The tundra is magical and like the desert holds no secrets, it can be very beautiful or very deadly all in the same day and without much notice. The terrain is wild, so little seemed ruined by mans input; it really makes you feel as if you are in the middle of it all even when a road is always at your feet. The truth of the matter is the Dalton is the last truly remote place you can ride your bike in the whole of the 50 states. There is no other place as wild and free as the tundra and mountains you will cross as you make your voyage on this wonderful Haul Road. If you plan on going and want the dirt experience go soon the whole road will be paved at some point and the traffic will increase as well as the loss of isolation that comes with such a remote place.

Some other things to take into consideration are the miles you can put in are going to be directly affected by the terrain you’re riding in and what your goal is. If you want to experience the road and all it has to offer take your time 2 weeks or about 45-50 mi a day are MORE than enough, you will find you may be in the saddle 6 hours a day at this mileage and over 12 hours with stops, picture breaks and the like. If you just want to ride the road for the sake of ridding it then do whatever you like but what’s the point? You will have missed the Magic that is here in your quest to make big miles you will miss the true beauty around you.

Whatever your plan and riding style don’t take this road and the environment for granted you will need to be100% self reliant and should take a course in Bike Maintenance as well as Wilderness First Aide so you can help yourselves as there may not be help for hours or days depending on where you are. This ride make a great 2 week vacation option and should be done by parties of 2 or more , people have done it solo and made it fine but you risk a lot and it is definitely better to share this experience with someone.

I want to thank Todd who came out to ride this section and made the whole trip Down the Dalton a good time. It was great to getting to know him he was easy to travel with and a fun guy to hang around we had a good time and I hope he will come out in the future and ride with me again. If you are looking to do a trip and need a partner if he is available Todd would be a great addition to your trip, no matter where you’re going he can adapt, and make your trip even better.

Alaska Continued....                                      

July 16^th

 Finally I get to leave this place and never return

I have been in Fairbanks for the last 3 nights waiting on a package from Arkel to arrive; it was delayed due to UPS’s not knowing how to find the address, or something like that. I got a ride form a couple of nice girls camped next to me and picked up my package thanks ladies!!! I was finally able to get the new panniers from Arkel and look forward to leaving this place as soon as the sun shines in the AM.

At last I am on the road….to the post office. I have to send the old Panniers back to Arkel so I haven’t left yet, and I am further delayed by the Post Office having odd hours and not opening until 9:30 in the am. Package sent I head out of town, well I try it seem you can get lost in a one horse town. While I was meandering around downtown FB I came across the Aloha Café, the sign said it serves Kalua pork, Loco Moco and all kinds Hawaiian Grinds, if only I hadn’t eaten that oatmeal MMMMM Loco Moco make my tummy grumble. If I am ever in FB again I’ll have to try it.

So getting out of town is not as easy as it looks, I had to back track about a mile to a different road than the ssss highway it doesn’t allow bikes, so I took cccc down to the Old Richardson Highway that eventually merges with the New RH. So out of town I head due south with a slight head wind and a flat as can be road. I pas mile after mile of… well nothing! There are trees on both sides so you can’t see anything but the road, kind of a bummer. I plod along at a brisk 11mph and the miles seem to just tick by until mile 26 when I suddenly start to feel the immense load I am carrying. I added the BOB trailer and more spare parts when I left FB so I have an additional 40lb or so I am hauling around, all I can say is thank the maker it has been a flat start to the next leg of the trip. Tired I continue my rather same same trek down the Richardson Highway, ever watchful for a place to camp, but nothing comes along until 48.5 miles.

I stop by the Tanana river and take a break it is much like the ones we saw on the Dalton very silted but much wider in spots. After a while I come across a couple trying to take a picture of themselves by putting the Camera on the car, so I stop and offer to snap a couple for them, they are very grateful and tell me I am the first person in the US to do this for them I am shocked and ask where they are form, they are Swiss. We have nice conversation about the Alps, Europe and my trip. I leave them to the view and mosey on down the road. I had been so tired I was going to stop after 30 miles my legs and butt are sore and the moral is wavering with not much to see, but I suck it up and pedal on finally coming to the Roadside hhhhhhh, were the nice lady lets me camp in the back of the restaurant under a shed.

Not to much happened today I was able to leave FB and ride almost 50mi with 0 knee pain….well at least until tomorrow.

July 17^th

I think the Nay Sayer's were right the world is FLAT!!!

Leaving the roadhouse shelter I made my way south glancing at the sky worried it would rain, and rain it did. At first it was intermittent and I was fine with just my light jacket, but as my day progressed the skies dropped buckets on my head. The road was flat for about a 3 miles then I got my first hill a short 1mile 5% grade and I was on the other side were the river Tanana river came into view at first it looks  a lot like most of the rivers I have seen here , silted and fast moving but as I rode on the true nature of this monster river would show its self, it is the widest river I have ever seen , not Mississippi wide but dang wide none the less. I stopped in several places to gaze out over this magnificent sight.  Following the river the views really start to open up and for the first time I can see the valley I have been riding in. On my left are rolling hills covered with spruce aspen and shrubs, on the right is the mighty river and far in the distance but clearly visible is the Alaska mountain range with dozens of huge snow covered peaks, these make the Brooks Range look child like, I found out later they are so high the snow stays all year long.

I stop in a rest area to get a better view I meet 2 guys cooking some lunch on a gas grill so I comment that I had “just made it in time for lunch” I was joking of course but they were more than willing to share their food. What was for lunch well Salmon of course and not any salmon.. Copper River Salmon, arguably the best Salmon on the market it fetches the highest prices and has in my opinion unmatched flavor and texture, it was divine.  I see the rain clouds are building in the distance and moving my way so I say my goodbyes and thanks them again and continue on hoping the road stay flat and follow the river but of course it doesn’t, I have my first real hill a 6%  grade for about a mile then a nice downhill to more views of the hills and the road winding off in the distance.  About half way up it starts rain and for the next 1.5 hrs I ride in a constant down pour and dropping temp. I finally see a camping sign at a lake recreation area , I figure they have a shelter for groups or something WRONG it is all open with no big shelter, luckily there is a kiosk with a roof and just enough room for me and the bike, now I can dry out.

At 10:45 I make lunch ,watch the rain come down and take pictures of the grayness’ after 2.5 hours the rain finally stops the clouds start to lessen and the sun desperately tries to break through and shine its ever warm rays upon me. I leave my nest and head back onto the lonesome road. Though the sun doesn’t come out right away neither does the rain and I ride in cool 60 degree weather with a slight head/cross wind for company. I am now 38 miles from Delta Junction and decide that I would like to get rid of a few things I am not using at the moment, so tomorrow I will mail them to my Moms in Phoenix so I can have them for Mexico and beyond. That was the plan but I forgot it Saturday and that means tomorrow is…well dam so I devise a plan I will make camp and roll into Delta Junction after a short day tomorrow then stay the night and ship the stuff on Monday.

 I start looking for a place but nothing is coming up, It’s all to close to the road or a driveway for a house. The miles start to tick away when I finally see a gravel pit next to a small lake on the right side of the road which is across form the great Tanana River. I head over, at first it looks to be to rocky but I keep searching on the far side of the pond I find a grassy area and a nice flat spot; as I am about to leave to go get the bike I see that right next to me is a huge area of wild Raspberries, it’s settled this is my camp spot even though it’s close to the road about 50 yards the fresh fruit is not to be missed so I role the bike over and start to set up camp.  As I am grabbing a few things from the bike I notice a small red berry closer to the ground in fact there are lots of them when I take a closer look I see they are Wild Strawberries I think I have found Shangri-La. I set up camp and immediately I start the berry picking the Raspberries are so sweet and flavorful I eat as many as I save. What comes next blows my mind the small miniature  Strawberries are the best I have ever eaten each one is 10 time more flavorful than ANY organic store bought or farmers stand  I have tried, each berry is like a taste explosion and the amount of Strawberry flavor is tremendous for such a tiny berry. Picture a dime that is the LARGE ones of these, most are smaller and oh so good.

I walk the short distance to the pond to make dinner, relax and read a book, in the now shinning sun. The current book I’m reading is “Seven Years In Tibet, by Heinrich Harrer” it was given to me by my good friend Thanaid, thanks this book is a great read and hard to put down, I have almost finished it and I only started 3 days ago. I walk across the road to look at the river and see for the first time with great clarity the Alaska mountains in the distance, the sun is dipping lower and the white caps are gleaming like pure white silk in the sun….it turned out to be a great day.

July 18^th

 I finally meet another cyclist, to bad he is going the other way 

I awoke to rain so I lay in bed for a couple hours to get more sleep. Soon the rain was gone and the sun was poised to make an appearance and when it did it was there for most of my day. I was planning on staying put and heading the 20 miles I had left to Delta Junction the next day, but the day was too nice so I let my stuff dry out, took a shower with my awesome Pocket Shower from the company “Sea to Summit” it worked great and I felt revived after 4 days of no real shower! At 11:30 I got back on the bike headed towards the Junction and the promise of a cheap camp spot, I hate to pay but I had stuff to do on Monday so I needed to be in town anyway. Being in the Tanana river valley the road was flat and in most cases well paved with a good shoulder, unfortunately the highlights of my day were the constant sun ,finding Wild Strawberries growing all over the side of the road and the crossing of the Tanana River with the Alaska Pipeline coming back into view as it crosses next to the bridge I was on. Delta Junction is a true 1 horse town it is so spread out that only a few building are even near each other so it was kind of hard to tell when I actually got to town but I found the post office easy enough and made my way to the camp ground to sort out the stuff I am sending home for later use. I hope it is a lot this is hard work lugging your life around with you.

I set up camp next to a couple from Switzerland Paul and Nelly, we soon began to talk and they invited me to dinner the first such invite of my trip and I am sure no the last. Paul lit a fire and roasted some Potatoes grilled some steaks and toasted some bread. While I was having dinner with my new friends I spotted another touring cyclist coming into the camp ground, I leaped up from the table like a child seeing a new toy to play with and about knocked him off his bike as I stopped him to inquire about where he is staying and to offer him a place in my camp I was so happy to finally see another cyclist on the trail I had yet to meet any. The Cyclists name is Marc he is from Calgary and is on his way to Fairbanks then to Anchorage to fly back home, Marc is just on a 5 week trip and is covering a lot of ground quickly. We joined the Swiss couple  we shared some wine, cherries, bread and good conversation, many laughs were had as the night progressed. I loved having another person who had a similar interest to talk to, we shared some info about the roads ahead and on the Morning cycled off in our separate directions Bon Voyage Marc.

July 19^th

I'm free to do what I want any old time!!!

Freeeeeeedom (with a Scottish accent) could be heard across the whole of Delta Junction as I unloaded the BOB trailer and gear from my bike saving my tired knees 35lb of weight, yes the parts are important but I really didn’t need some of the stuff now, so it made sense to send it ahead to a place it could be used.

The road out and into Delta Junction if flat flat flat. I was soon lulled into a state of complete mechanical motion that was until I saw the Smoked Meat shop on the side of the road, the brakes came on quick and I steered  myself on over to sample some of the tasty meaty treats and perhaps buy something. The variety was superb, the sample platter piled high with all kinds of smoked 4 and 2 legged creatures it was a meat lovers paradise. After trying all the flavors of Moose, Elk, Reindeer, Buffalo, Deer, Duck….the list is long and Yummy, I made my way through the tray again going backwards for a change in direction and to make it seem as if I had only just begun. I settled on a Smoked German Sausage that the lady Said I would love. Later that day I tried some of this meat and I soon regretted the decision not to buy more they were fantastic I was reminded of the smoked meat sticks we bought as children from Kenny the Butcher, I was sad when they were all gone. I cycled onto to  more flat roads and now clouding skies with the chance of yet another rainy day. I was able to filter the silted water, found a red Mushroom that looked as if it might kill you with one touch, found I nice place to camp off the road a bit to keep the traffic when there was any down to a muffle, I ate my staple dinner of pasta made my bed crawled inside and read a little before being lulled to sleep by the hooting of an Owl somewhere close it seemed to cap of my day perfectly and sleep came easily.

July 20^th

Rain in the morning had me up and packed before 7 am and on the road I was not wanting to pack all my gear wet and ride in the rain better to be caught out than start out is my opinion. The road was flat at first but soon gave way to a few ups and downs which helped relive some of the boredom of cycling flat roads with low clouds as you cant see much.   

I crossed a bridge with an eagle nest perched up on the top the mother bird gave me plenty of warning that I was coming to close, I stopped and observed this beautiful bird for a spell then continued on with my cycling. I soon came to a nice spot on the side of the road to have lunch complete with a turnout and Table. I was a little low on water so I bummed some off an RV and set about making my staple lunch of noodles go figure!!! Had some snacks and talked to  a nice lady named Amy and her 2 sons Otis and Phoenix, they were curious about the bike and all the stuff so I told them about the trip and showed them the world I as traveling with so the kids could see the places I will go. I was soon joined by a lady who runs a cycle tour company in  the summers form Anchorage she had a group of 14 out on the road and was setting up lunch for the crew when they came in , nice lady but cant remember her name. The cyclist are the typical group types with slow fast and turtle speeds mixed in the bunch, they all thought I was either crazy or doing it right which means some of them by their own admission were doing it wrong ! Ah who knows what’s best as long as you’re out there peddling it’s all good. Lunch done  I moved on as the rain clouds appeared I could see the rain ahead and new I was headed into a bit of a drizzle, but the group of cyclist that just came by said it was nothing major so I didn’t put on my waterproofs. I soon moved through the rain and was in the clear as long as I didn’t stop as soon as I did the rain would catch me again and I would get wet, it was like cat and mouse for a 20 miles until I hit the flats leading into Tok then I was able to get far enough ahead to just stay dry.

I have never been on a road that is so flat and straight as the  one into Tok it is sad to say but it was so boring and I could not wait to get to town so I could see something more than just road. I arrived in the second one horse town of my journey OK maybe 2 horses could live there. I stopped at the place Marc mentioned called Fast Eddies and had an Alaskan Burger it was good but not as massive as Marc had lead me to Believe, dinner sorted I headed over to the camp ground took a shower read some of my new Book  “Miles from Nowhere” by Barbara Savage, it is a good look into cycling touring the world in the late 70’s she and her husband were very courageous to take on such a little done thing back when it wasn’t as easy as today. If you haven’t read it give iti a go , I think you’ll like it, sadly though Barbara was killed riding her bike after returning home to California. Around the camp are lots of old road equipment I can only imagine was used to make the Ak Highway so I strolled through the pieces and snapped a few photos for the web.

The rain built up all night until finally it could hold off no longer and it poured until just before I got up, the clouds broke and the sun made a brief appearance little did I know it would be the last time I would see it for 5 more days.

July 21

 It can rain even when you beg the rain god to make it stop  

I dried my tent as best I cold and set out for Northway junction 62 miles away that was to be my stop for today and I was hoping the weather would hold until I could arrive and set up camp, I was not so lucky.

The road out of Tok is the same as it is when you arrive but in the distance you can see the hills coming so relief from flat boredom was soon to be had. I cruised down to the bridge that crosses over the river separating the flats form the hills and was soon climbing up and down beautiful undulations giving my legs a much needed rhythm change. The view ahead and behind was a rainy one all across the valley to my right I could see a dark rain cloud that looked like a curtain of grey stretched across from horizon to horizon and I was head straight for it.

I had a good run a few hours in the morning with no rain but all that ended with a few drops then a few more until it was coming down in buckets the temp dropped the thunder rolled and I cycled on head down against the cold biting wind I made my miles, inching along as car after car sped past spraying my with more water making me wetter, well not really I was already beyond wet so it made no difference. I had 20 miles to go and was kicking myself for not taking the perfect camp spot I scoped out before the rain hit a few miles back but a cyclists credo of never back track kept me going forward head long into the deluge, the miles seemed to drag on forever. I was so relieved when I saw the sign for Northway Junction and its promise of hot food, lodging and warmth, imagine my disappointment when I arrived and found there was no lodging and no place to put up a tent since it was just RV camping and the ground was under an inch of water.

I apologized to the lady behind the counter for making a puddle on the floor and she informed me that the lodging had closed years ago the sign should have been taken down, but of course hadn’t. I introduced to Mona a local Native American lady and asked if there was anyone willing to take me in for the night and she being the kind angel she is started calling people she knew in the end I was given room with her cousin Keith, who just happened to walk in the door as she was calling around so he gave me the directions and said to come down to the house when I was ready, to get there I was to “turn right at the next road and follow it for about 5 miles or until you see the  blue and white rundown old truck by the driveway, that’s my cabin” I followed Keith’s directions and sure enough there was the truck I turned into the driveway and made my back to the cabin, unfortunately the rain hadn’t stopped and the muddy drive was slick with potholes full of water one deep enough I soaked a pannier for a second or so.

Keith was nice and tried to light a fire in the stove but it wouldn’t stay lit due to the wet wood and his lack of ability due to his current state of inebriation. Keith abruptly announced we are hungry and left to go get some dinner when he returned he had brought back a nice plate of local fish seasoned and fried, it was very tasty. While he was gone I got the fire lit and was able to finally start to get warm, of course Keith came back and proudly announced he had successfully started the fire I thanked him and ate my fish. Though he was a nice guy like so many Native Americans I have met he was also a heavy drinker and was plowed drunk before long and passed out on the bed, though that didn’t last as his 2 friends E and V arrived with their own “spirits” and the talking and carrying on commenced for another couple hours after E finally woke Keith up. I was thankful for V fire starting skills I had it going but the wet wood would not burn well, V got the fire in the stove a cookin and were soon warm and all my things would dry by morning. The party ended when the alcohol was gone and the boys left, I being the only one who didn’t drink was the last to fall asleep as the temp rose in the cabin I tossed and turned most of the night, sleep didn’t come easy because I knew I would have to face the rain again tomorrow.

July 22^nd

The English are coming, and have arrived !!!

Drip Drip Drip I could hear the rain outside as I awoke. The fire had gone out and the room was cold and musty with the faint smell of alcohol, which I thought was from the night before but upon further investigation saw it was just Keith’s Breakfast of  Beer and Whiskey.

With all my clothes dry I greased Keith’s palm with a $20 and headed out to face yet another day of cold rain the 9^th day of rain in a row counting all the days in Fairbanks. The road was muddy and the puddles in the drive impassable so I over landed to make my exit from the driveway. Once on the main road the dirt was a mix of chip seal and bad chip seal so not very muddy and easy to ride on. Keith’s house sits down in the valley a couple miles from the village of Northway and the road that takes you there is bordered on both sides by water; with the heavy rain of the past few days the water level was getting close to breaching the road in a few places and I was nervous that I would come upon such a place and it would not be passable, I might have to take a boat to shore. Lucky for me that didn’t happen and I rode up to the Truck stop I met Mona at the day before with the idea of a coffee and a good think about the weather before I continued towards the Border of Canada, when I arrived I saw a bike with a BOB trailer my second touring cyclist of the trip was waiting just inside.

The trailer and bike belonged to a Swiss cyclist named Michael. Mike and I had a good discussion about bike travel and the weather and it was decided by both of us that the last 2 weeks of rain have not allowed us to really see anything of AK and we should try to hitch a ride to Whitehorse. So we waited for a truck with enough room to come along and Mona called around to see if anyone was willing to take us to Beaver Creek some 70miles further were we could more easily get a ride to Whitehorse. Mona said her cousin Neil would do it if we helped with gas, no problem we said so it was arranged and she said he was on his way. I went outside and took all the bags off the bike and got it ready to transport while Michael unhitched his BOB. We took a seat in the store drank coffee and awaited the arrival of Neil and the truck and we waited and waited and the hours passed and not Neil not even a call then after 4 hours of waiting he arrives and when I ask if he is our ride he just says   “NO! I decided not to go to Beaver Creek, so I can’t take you” what a Jerk we sat there all day waiting and he had changed his mind and didn’t even bother to call. So Michael and I sat and watched out the window for the next sizable truck to arrive and whisk us away from this dreary place, while were staring blankly out the window I spotted a couple of cyclist approaching our cozy store.

The English are coming! The English are coming!  The 2 cyclist

After introduction I get their names Loraley and Russell from Bath England, they started a few days after I did from Fairbanks and made it in the pouring rain to Northway junction on this miserable day. We talk awhile and Russell keeps asking me to ride with them, I keep saying NO! he keeps saying come along and finally I agree since riding with someone beats any day riding alone and they are very friendly and seem to be in good spirits, something I could use right about then.

          We says goodbye to Mona and Swiss Michael who is still waiting on a ride and set off to a camp about 16miles down the road. It is so nice to be riding with others for a change and the rain has stopped as well just cloudy and a bit cold but compared to the last few days and week it is heavenly. As we are riding along I see another cyclist coming our way I immediately recognize him as Japanese and assume before I have a chance to ask if that he is Toshi the famous Japanese cyclist I have read about and studied his blog. When we all finally come to a stop I introduce myself in Japanese and he replies that he is indeed Toshi. I about flip out, he is famous in the cycling world for having ridden all over the planet over the past 10 years in stages, he has an amazing website with fantastic pictures. We all take pics of each other and swap emails, websites and then as quickly as this amazing person arrived he is gone and we cycle on. As a side note I found out later that Toshi had all his gear stolen in that *%#@ hole Fairbanks and had to fly back to Japan, I am very sorry that this has happened to this great guy.

          We cycle on and about a mile from our camp we find a nice spot off the side of the road with a good view and enough dry wood to make a smoking fire. I work on Russell’s bike to get the shifting working and find that the bike has Brake housing for shift on both side, what kind of a mechanic would do this?? After looking at Lorely’s bike it is the same  we’ll have to sort it all out later. Soon we were visited by a nice guy named J.P. Rice he was a cool guy who invited us to have tea with the following morning. After J.P. we were visited by another cyclist headed north to Prudhoe his name is Rick Griffin cycling for the Wounded Warriors foundation he was a nice guy with big ambitions and a need for warmer gear for where he was headed.

          With camp set up we settle in for the night just as the rain makes and appearance, it will be with us for the rest of the next day in full force.