June 20th 2011 The day has come to face the ugly truth .the Gibb River Road! I say the ugly truth; because so many people have talked about it being really bad in a vehicle, doing it on a bike has to be to masochistic , well I am about to find out the real truth if I really love off road riding.

I leave the warm and inviting home of a true angel, Chloe. She has taken me in over the last 4 days and made me feel like we were old friends and not two strangers just meeting, her compassion and trust is something we all could take lesson from, I left with a bit of sadness for I am not sure if we will ever meet again, people like Chloe are the reason we all have hope in Humanity ..though hope is just floating!

The road to the Gibb is the same road as you take into Derby you just back track about 5km and Bam there you are, it was at this point I realized I hadn't picked up fuel for my stove and I had 380km to the next fuel stop many days and dusty miles away, checking supply I push on we cycle tourist hate to go back. I start the Gibb as I started my tour of Australia; in the WRONG direction. The Gibb should be ridden from the East to West to take advantage of the prevailing wind which today was prevailing in a strong way in the prevailing direction . can you say that???

Going east I have around 80km of pavement or bitumen as they call it in these parts, to start my ride and the miles are flying by well as much as they can with a prevailing wind in my face, but looming in the back of my mind are the warnings from other travelers 'it's murder, not to be done on a push bike do you enjoy torture son!!!' Just about the time I was getting my wind fighting groove on I hit pay dirt the pave ended with a sign telling me the obvious; Gravel Road. Immediately I am in deep sand and it is hard to ride the bike through ,I keep cranking and slowly emerge and find the corrugations I bounce my way down the Gibb road for 12 days leaving the tattered remains of my ass on some hill called Stumpys jump up ..the end! roll credits!

OK seriously after a little fighting the road becomes a good gravel road and I continue on, the scenery doesn't change much at first but soon I am passing wide open fields and trees with a bark as white as snow are all over along with many Boabs and finally I see my first Kangaroo he darts across the grass and disappears into the woods. As the day wears on I come across a pond just after a bit of Pave in the middle of nothing after the pond is a long stretch of dirt road and open space with a tree cover on the far side, as the time is now 4pm I need to make the cover of the trees and find a camp spot or I might be sleeping in the open with a nice strong wind.

I am just about to the trees when I hear for the first time a strange rattle coming from the front of the bike this will not be the last time I here this. Stopping to investigate I discover that one of the screws and Nylock washers fell out of the rack has come loose and is not tight anymore on one side, I tighten what is left and carefully make my way further all the while looking for a camp spot. I have been relying on my 7th sense to find camp spots that meet my needs at 4pm every day I say out loud 'OK! Now show me my Spot' and so far I have not been let down. This time I find a nice dry pond behind a hill to camp in far enough from the road to be unseen and quiet enough to sleep well. After a bit of dinner I set about fixing the missing pieces on the rack, glad I brought spares, I will be haunted by this fact later on! A day of 90km on the Gibb I am tired and fall asleep at 7pm only to awake at 5am the next day a pattern I have become used to.

Cow pond to Windjana Gorge: Some places are hard to get to...but worth the trouble!!!

Tuesday June 21, 2011

June 21st As the sun creeps up I am already having my morning coffee and welcoming day 2 on the Gibb. Packed and ready I am on the road by 7, the cool morning keeps the wind at bay for the first hour but as always it is there when I least want it, well I don't care for headwind at all so anytime is least wanted, but even this will change a bit over the next 11 days. My goal for today is Windjana Gorge I'll stay for a day then head back to the Gibb, since the gorge is 23k off the route it is a detour I wouldn't usually take to see a Gorge but there are 2 reasons first; Windjana is home to Fresh Water Crocodiles and second is Tunnel Creek NP a further 20km past Windjana, I was told not to miss it so I am making the trek, but first I have to tackle the Road to the Gorge it is in Bad shape.

Immediately I am in a sand bog and have to push the bike for about a kilometer, after the sand comes a Creek Crossing then some more bad corrugated road and finally when I can't take it no longer and I am actually thinking 'have I made a mistake, 46km of this road would be bad', the road gives in and I get a good stretch for a long while, just enough to make me feel it is all worth it, and evil plan roads have used against unknowing cyclist, but it doesn't last. Being day 2 I am learning were the best place to ride my bike is , I have found that if it is deep sand usually there is a hard pack at the edge of the sand just big enough for your tyre to fit on , so I ride here a lot if it is deep corrugations and no shoulder to ride on I'll ride in the deepest corrugation at about 2kmh just so I am rolling along not slamming into them, and sometimes the very side of the road off the road it's self is the best place , it can be hard pack with small bushes but faster and less bumpy than the road is.

At mid-day I have made it 2km from the turn into Windjana and I am off the bike and pushing it is too deep to pedal and no shoulder to work with luckily the road into the park is good and I cruise into my first Gorge of the trip. Windjana Gorge is a Must see on the cycle through; if you come at the right time of year and the road is open you have to come see it for yourself. I arrive at the pay station. On the board there is no Payment category for a Bicycle so I pay 11AU$, it is supposed to be 16AU$with a day pass and a camp spot, but since I am not a Moto, Car, or caravan I think it is a fair deal and head in to find a spot.

As I am looking around a friendly bloke named Peter wanders over and tells me he saw me yesterday on the road and was wondering if I was coming this way, we talk about my trip his trip and the beauty of the Kimberly region we are in. I select my spot and set up camp now all I want to do is rest the road getting here was not fun and I am dreading the return trip in a couple days. After a well-deserved shower and a spot of lunch I make my way down to the gorge to take some pics, with fresh water Crocs supposed to lurking about I don't want to miss it.

I spot my first Crocs just lying on the bank of the creek, a big size one and a smaller. I take a few photos and creep as close as I feel safe about 30feet and just watch, they are magnificent to look at , so docile in appearance but aggressive to the point of real harm if provoked, though a bit small to be taking down any Adults, but a child might be in trouble. Now it has been said there are Salties (Salt Water Crocs) in this Gorge as well, if there are lingering at the water's edge is not a good idea so I move on. Just up the gorge a bit I find 6-8 Crocs lying on the bank sunning themselves, it is about 2pm and few people about so I have the place to myself well me and the Dinosaurs.

My first day at the gorge was a success I was able to see and photograph some beautiful animals in a natural setting, something that seems so rare these days. Back at camp a new family has arrived , a couple from Sydney Via Denmark and their 2 kids; nice people taking 4 months to travel around Australia before they move back to Denmark for good, what a great experience for the kids. Peter wanders over and invites me to go along with them to Tunnel Creek in the Morning taking the truck of course, I can't pass up a ride to the Creek it is 20km more up the same road I came in on. After my second shower the ranger comes by and sees my tent but doesn't even stop to see if I have paid he doesn't even acknowledge me just walks by looking at the cars and the tags in the window, chatting to some and moving on in a hurried pace, he reminds me of a worker bee, just buzzing from flower to flower stopping only long enough to acquire what he needs and moving on .

Peter come by and gives me an ice cold Beer a Tasmanian Brew a lager which I am not a fan of but in this case I have to say it was good. The family from Sydney and Peter Start a fire and we all gather around eating our food and chatting into the night which comes about 630pm, with a beer in me and the night now all around my eyes becoming heavy sleep creeping into my thoughts, it isn't long before I am saying good night and fast asleep in my tent, legs a bit sore from all the day's activities, lungs a bit Dusty from the passing trucks, caravans and road Trains.

Day off at Windjana: Crocs in the water!

Wednesday June 22, 2011

June 22rd 2011 Dawn breaks early and I am out and about at 6am ready to go to Tunnel Creek, I am alone everyone else is still asleep, so I quietly as I can make breakfast, not easy with a MSR Dragonfly stove. Just as I am getting a good 3rd through breakfast Peter comes over and says they are almost ready to go, perfect timing. I take my two waterproof cameras with me, as I am told we will be wading in waist deep water for about 2km as we follow the creek through the Tunnel it formed in the mountain.

The road from Windjana to Tunnel creek is worse than the one coming into Windjana, it is not corrugated or sandy but full of loose golf ball sized rocks that as I come to find out later are harder to ride on then the previously mentioned road types. The trip in the car takes us about 40min and a few close calls with dips in the road, Ann, Peters wife is driving and she seems to be paying attention to the scenery not the road so peter and I are both watching the road and not much scenery. We pass through a beautiful area before making the NP, trees and low rock covered hills on both side make the road just about picture perfect.

Our early start has paid off and except for a hippie in a van we are the first on scene. We follow the interpretive trail signs to the Creek and make our way into the mouth of the tunnel, the temps drop a few degrees and I am glad I have my jacket on. The water is cold to start but become very comfortable after a few minutes, as we go deeper into the tunnel I see a lot of red eyes in the water staring at me, I am thinking Croc a few re said to be in the Creek, but the eyes are just too small and soon reveal a fish, and soon a I find shrimp as well, if only I could catch some for a meal Shrimp on the Barby, ya know!!! The darkness soon takes over, the head lights go on. The ceiling is dotted with stalactites were the water can be seen dripping. The bottom is sandy, as well s rocky in a few spots as we go deeper all traces of light vanish from the entrance and soon we are just 3 explorers like Orson Wells characters in 'Journey to the center of the Earth' about half way through light appears, a collapse in the roof has made a large opening breaking the darkness into two parts. Entering the second half I can hear the trickling of water and Ann hears a larger than fish splash, we stop and listen but nothing but water can be heard. I move forward to investigate a water fall and slip into deep water back tracking so I don't go in to deep.

The second half is much like the first but the water is deeper and we are now wading up to our waist for some of us man parts for others. Light can be seen as a faint beacon in the dark growing brighter as we progress closer to the final lingering space of dark. Fully out of the tunnel we are greeted with a spectacular clear water pool that the water flows into then at an end I can't see continues its meandering path on to the final resting place.

We spend a little time here pondering the force of water and time that created such a spectacular natural feature. On the way back I stop again at the water fall to try and get a good picture, in the light of my headlamp 2 red eyes stare back at me, this time they are the right size for a croc, as the man eater stares me down I freeze the water around me crystalizing in an instant, I am so frightened I can't breathe, I'm sure being the closest I am the first to go then Ann then Peter finally I get my composer . for the photo that is and snap a couple good ones of the little guy he is a freshie and of no harm to us , nor does he have the size to inflict much damage beyond a lost finger or a deep cut, thrilled to have survived my close encounter I move on. Soon we are not alone as more tourist arrive, as we exit he tunnel the dreaded tour bus arrives and the grey nomads emerge from there bus induced coma to see yet another easy to reach coach style attraction. Having forgot my water bottle when I entered the Tunnel I had to run back and stand in a long line of people to enter and retrieve it, glad I ride a bike.

Back at Windjana I set off again to catch the Crocs bathing by the water's edge, this time I get a whole lot more than just lying around. As I am making my way to the first sandy embankment I see one in the water swimming towards the spot I want to take photos of, so I snap a few great shots and take a nice video , you can see his tail slowly moving back and forth propelling him forward without even making a wake in the water, I watch as he approaches a smaller croc already on the sand bar, the Small one opens its mouth and hisses a warning, the larger one slows and waits as the Croc closes its mouth he then makes land fall and gets himself in proper position for sleeping and that's what he does.

The gorge offers a hike of 7km with return over semi rough to easy terrain, and I am told there might be bigger Crocs up river so I set out to see what I can see. At noon in the gorge it is hot and every time I come out of the canopy cover I am reminded of this fact, wish I could go swimming but with salty in the water it's just smart not to. I hike for about an hour until I come upon a couple larger crocs basking on the banks. As I approach the smaller and closer of the 2 opens his mouth and makes a hissing sound, even though I am more than 4m away I take a width angle and find some shade to sit under and spend the next hour watching them. As I am sitting there a couple of arguing tourist come by and take a perch on a log above me talking loud and arguing about the spot not being perfect and it's too narrow of a log and BLAH BLAH BLAH .with the moment ruined I head back.

When I finally get back to the main area there are several crocks lying about and I take some photos, I especially like the ones with the mouth open teeth like daggers glistening in the sun, I take a lot of those pics. Back in camp I am greeted with yet another fine beer from Peter we share some photos and talk about the trips ahead, he and the wife are headed to the Bungle bungle then back to the Gibb after about 10days to go the other direction to the point they are now, kind of a weird roundabout way, but hey this is the land of the 'Walk about' so anything goes.

Later I meet a couple of Grey Nomads (self-professed) who have met a pair of Gibb River Cyclist Ahead of Me by a week, no chance of catching them. The guy and Girl I had heard about from David and the Swiss I met on the road to Derby. The couple was impressed by the girl, described to me as the loveliest looking girl so petite and pretty but so strong for doing what she is doing, I agree with all except the pretty lovely part need to see first. The couple treats me to a home cooked meal and a glass of a great lemonade drink called SOLO, neither too sweet nor tart but just right a true refreshing lemonade drink SOLO is the one for me ..end commercial for Solo. At 7pm we all say goodnight, I don't see Peter his wife or the grey Nomads again during my Gibb trip

Windjana to Camp

Thursday June 23, 2011, 49 miles (79 km) - Total so far: 8,385 miles (13,495 km)

June 23th I leave as the sun starts to make its presence known and the wind is like all the campers is still sleeping as I leave the Gorge and get back on my hell road to the Gibb. Today is not a day for the wind to be sleeping at this early hour, it would have been a great tail wind as I bumped and jarred and fell, and stopped, and cursed, almost cried (not really) my way back to the main road. I make it to the Gibb after two hours of bouncing along, stopped at the trash collection site to get rid of a bit of garbage I am approached by a nice couple on holidays from over sees, were I can't remember, but what I do remember is they opened a box of food and said take what you like we are done with our trip and head back to catch flights home. I loaded up with a nice block of cheese, beans, smoked tuna fish, Milk in carton not opened, sausage half, sugar, fruit and tuna in Olive oil, these people are my type of Gourmet campers, they get 2 thumbs up from me. Back on the Gibb I am surprised to pass over a river must be the same one from the Gorge so probably has Crocks too bad it was a nice spot to jump into the pool. I was expecting a bad road but this day I am given the best dirt road conditions I will have the entire trip, smooth and fast even with the wind I have 40km done by lunch so I stop to eat some of my newly given yumminess.

I pass through the Gap and see the Queen Victoria's head in the rock neat illusion as you get closer it all melts away to jagged edges and harsh lines not as delicate as you are lead to believe. The other side looks oddly like the other side can you say that? With a head wind coming on strong I stop and look to the sky and curse my unfortunate ability to go the wrong direction in such a large country cursing done I plod along. I am riding through a scrub brush and sparse tree landscape with golden grasses blanketing everything else red rock outcroppings pop into view and the scenery changes to low hills red colored boulders and slabs of sand stone are everywhere it reminds me of Moab or Sedona Arizona 2 of the best places to ride mtn bike on this planet and any other you may have or are going to visit. I stop at one slopping sand stone feature and take the bike on a push up the side to take photos, in the end I forgot to take the best one but since the bike was already off it I was not pushing back up, I'll just have to remember it.

The scenery changed back and forth between open areas red rocks and tree covered the whole day, in fact I was in danger of not making it to camp as I had finally been enjoying the ride that when the road turned bad I was not in a place I could camp, I was looking hard and finally found an area just before a construction zone but after 30min of searching it coudlent find a good spot si I decided to move on at 430 I am back on the road and a little worried, asi make the climb I come to the construction zone the flag lady stops me and I ask her about camping further on and she tells me that there a lot of great creek and the like to camp at so I decide to push on, but as the km go by I am not finding much until I am almost at sundown when a road appears to my left , I take it and find a great quarry and a nice quiet spot way off the road. In the night I am visited be a Dingo I can see the reflection of my light in its eyes, the Dingo pauses then takes off. Later the next day I see a dead one on the road not too far from where I was camped.

Quarry camp to Creek camp: Meeting a couple of cool nomads Noel and Pep

Friday June 24, 2011, 50 miles (80 km) - Total so far: 8,435 miles (13,575 km)

June 24th Today I will pass through the Iglis gap a moment that will bring me to the East side of the Gibb River Road and the Promise of more available water sources and sure enough off the top I plunge down and find a great steam flowing with nice clear water, while I don't need any I stop and take a few pics and freshen up. I see 2 more just like it before I break for lunch a t a nice wide on.

Today has been a bit more scenic with the hills, streams and more greenery than the last few days. I stop at March fly glen and see lots of Parrots in the trees noisy suckers but oh so cool to watch. I take a long break then head back out this section of road is paved as is almost all the hills that are steep as well as the Larger Floodways as I plunge down the other side the valley opens up and I can see far into the distance I know out there somewhere is Barnett RH and the Promise of a Hot non noodle meal something to look forward to a treat if you will for all my hard work. As the day rolls on I am enjoying the diversity I pass through but not keeping track of time I am in real danger of not making it to a good place to camp, the road has turned bad and progress slows to a crawl. A truck stops to talk to me so I ask truck driver and he tells me about a rock quarry that people camp at 10km up the road, I raced on trying to make it there by dark, all along my place finding radar was on full alert looking for a backup place if I felt I was going to be past dark.

As I was listening to music at the time it happened I didn't hear the Truck that pulled up beside me until it was on me and the guy was talking to me and for a second I didn't notice him fully. I stopped to talk to him as I like to do with all who take an interest and with those who don't even. His name is Noel and he had been tracking me for a while, he heard about a cyclist form Alaska (Not tru-ish) and wanted to meet whomever it is that cycles this road. Noel along with his trusty companion PEP a 16year old small dog like the yappy ones but with NO yap a great dog, old, almost blind , deaf and afraid of the dark PEP is Noel best friend and after a little while with PEP I am Jealous that I am not PEP's favorite he is a cool little dog.

I tell Noel about the creek camping and he leaves me to get at it. A few kilometers later he is on the side of the road, as I stop he tells me it is less than 2 km away, good news as the sun light is starting to wane. Sure enough 10km later as the guy in the truck had said is the creek and a large quarry as I am just about to cross the creek I see Noel leaving headed on down the road. I make my way to the back right side and find a nice spot under a Boab tree with a nice creek to sleep next to. A few minutes later Noel drives up, asks if I would like company no need to ask!

Noel treats me to a great dinner of potato dumplings veggies and a marinara sauce; it all goes down a treat. This night I am not in bed until 9pm Noel and I have a lot of the same views and ideas about what's happening around us and to the earth and our very existence. The Milky way is amazing so clear and detailed the sky free of all clouds and no light pollution, I don't drift off to sleep easy looking up through my screened in world is a vast universe and I am so very curious about it all!

Creek camp to Barnett R: Sometimes you should give up hope

Saturday June 25, 2011, 30 miles (48 km) - Total so far: 8,465 miles (13,623 km)

June 25th I left a little late this morning. When I awoke clouds were building on the horizon, as the sun came up I could see they were dark a sign of rain. Now this would normally not be a bad sign but out here if it rains a lot it can make the roads impassable for not days but weeks at a time, not a pleasant thought. Noel having a UHF system on board radioed Alice Springs station that was coming online at 630 and got the low down on the pour down good news no pour down to happen today or any time soon.

I leave around 730am and for the first time in about a week and I don't have a head wind, the clouds that are now covering the sky must be keeping the sun from heating things up and starting the blower. I rode for about 2 hours before the winds picked up a great start to the day. The terrain today was pretty much flat until I got closer to Galvan's Gorge then I started to climb small hills until I got to one downhill that said 10% I clipped in and zoomed down the paved hill at the bottom is Galvan's Gorge a real MUST do on the Gibb a 1km walk takes you to the falls and a great swimming pool. You can climb up on the rock and jump off it seems real deep, cool and refreshing it takes your breath away and cleans 4 days of red dirt from your skin. I took a lot of pics and climbed up to the top falls, a bit of a risk if you don't know how to get down, I was glad I made it climbing back down, not jumping the 12m.

After the Gorge I made the last 20km to the Barnett Road House with one thought in my mind 'road house means hamburgers' I said it over and over to keep me motivated forward. I nearly passed the darn road house as it is only signed on one side of the road headed the other direction. I pulled in to find Noel and PEP siting in the grass enjoying a mid-day break. A short chat and I was off to find my burger, can you believe my shock and horror at finding that the entire menu was deep fried foods or Meat pies! I had to ask to make sure I was not missing the REAL menu, I wasn't. I was now so hungry I ordered to mat pies and fries with a coke it was nearly 22US got to love the 'you're here not there what's ya gonna do' prices.

I return to where Noel and PEP are to enjoy me Feast d' Grease. Noel had the same idea I did about a proper hamburger, he said he had been thinking about it all day and was as let down as I was by the state of things at the Barnett RH. Noel let me charge up my computer so I could then charge my iPod, and gopro. The guy inside said it is 14$to camp and that is with NO electricity at all and its 7km into the Gorge not at the RH is says it is. So I tell Noel about another Gorge about 29km away called Barnett Gorge he asks if I want a ride there since I arrived at the RH 2 hours have passed and I won't have time to make it there so I agree very easily. After a talk to the local aboriginal ladies they explain that the roadhouse has gone to hell under the new management, they used to have proper food hamburgers, salads, chicken sandwiches you know café fare now it is just crap, we agree and speed off never to see Barnett RH house again.

When are treated with a construction zone that puts us on a secondary bypass road of excellent quality smooth most of the way we fly along until just before our turn to the Gorge the road construction zone ends and spits us out almost as we need to turn. The track to Barnett Gorge is rough with rocks and sand I am not riding in but I will ride out tomorrow. We follow the track until we come to two fellas setting up camp on the side of the road, when we ask they say it is a mud bog and not passable so we agree to just camp in the an area near them. What a mistake!

Firstly they blame the aboriginal people for all the problems in the area whatever those are and say they need to go. Then they run a generator for 1 light, so for 3 hours we listen to the Generator drown out all the nature until about 8pm then it goes off just in time as Noel was going to open up a can of wannabe 4 wheel drive user bush man whoop ass!! In the morning I got up early to make coffee and oats, about a half hour later the 2 wankers got up and turned on the country Music, so I now know what the still clean SUV was good for pumping out the world's worst music. After they have scared away the wildlife and missed an amazing flock of birds fly over the heads with a sunrise lighting the way, neither of them bothered to look. They kicked the logs of the fire a couple of times declared it OUT and started to drive away, they stopped long enough to say good luck to me, and in return I told him how irresponsible it is to leave a Smoldering fire in an area so dry if you farted it would ignite from the fumes. They assured me they were Bushmen and that the fire would go out all by its self. With me just looking at them in shock and shaking my head they left Noel doused it and it made a lot of noise and steamed, idiots. Actually that is a put down on idiots hmm Wankers seems to have fit them well.

Gorge to camp in quarry

Sunday June 26, 2011, 32 miles (51 km) - Total so far: 8,497 miles (13,675 km)

June 26th Noel decides that we should go look at the gorge so we load up PEP and set off to the BOG. The BOG is not a BOG but a Muddy crossing that the wannabe 4x4 guys,(Wankers) for short didn't want to try in their GMC look alike BUSH vehicle. Noel scouts the area pics a spot and we cross with little effort or worry. We make it to the camping area and there are caravans and Mercedes SUVs as well as other nice Trucks all about looks like a great place to camp. We learn on the GIBB don't believe anything unless you see it for yourself. The falls and gorge are 3km further and it is a walk not something I am into doing so we head back to the camp. I finish packing the bike snap a photo of Noel and PEP and head out onto a rough track back to the Gibb.

Back on the road I find that the construction goes on a bit further and the bypass road is un used so I cut across some grass to reach it, soon I am flying along on my own private road for about 5km it is smooth sailing on a perfectly graded and hard pack dirt road, too bad it didn't last. The road is flat and if not for the wind I would be making real good time, corrugations pop up and sand is ever present but for the most part today's road is in great shape. About 2 hour later Noel and PEP pass me by we have a chat and some trail mix and watch the vehicles race by like the forest was on fire or nature was closing its doors and they had to get out or get there before it happens. Noel leaves and I continue my ride. At around noon every day I take a 2 hour break to let the heat of the day pass, usually I find myself at a nice creek or river crossing and I want to enjoy the cool water and sounds that accompany. Today was no different I stopped at a river crossing and relaxed in the shade and played in the cool clear water, the water here is good enough to drink I am told and David the other cyclist did but I prefer to filter, but I can see how he was able to just drink it, this river is a nice spot.

Clunk, clunk, clunk; my bike is making a strange noise so I pull out my headphones and take a listen every corrugation it goes clunk. I think the bolts have come loose again even though I checked them yesterday so I take a look. I have broken a mounting bracket for my Surly Front rack snapped it off at the end. The front bag is moving so the rack is bending out at the broken bracket making a clunk sound. It's hot in the sun so I find some shade and look more closely at the problem , yep sheared it clean off.

Off the bags come and the bike goes upside down I pull out the tools and spare parts to see what I have on board, tools plenty! Spare parts plenty but the pieces I need I left back at home I did something I never doo and compromised by leaving the spare brackets at home, I saved some weight .dumb dumb!!! So I have 2 broken brackets now one completely sheared off at the end and the other cracked half way through. Sitting and staring at a problem works for me and soon I have the solution. When I had Bilenky build the bike I had the fork made with 4 sets of mounting brackets so I could mount the rack by 6 points not 4 so I move the brackets around and in doing so I have fixed the rack to the point I can continue on, now I would like new brackets but at this point and at this point literally they are not available.

I stop a vehicle and explain the situation. I want to see if they can get ahold of Noel he gave me his phone number and UHF call number in case of emergency and this could turn into one. No luck as they don't have UHF and cell phones don't work out here. So I tell them that if they see him let him know 'I have broken my rack but fixed it if it fails completely ill hitch out and if I can't find a ride ill call him' .this message would not arrive in the same order or way I told them , lesson learned Write it down!! Rack fixed I continue on more gingerly than before of course not I have 300km and I need the rack to hold until Kununarra about 4 days and much bad road later.

Not long after the rack incident I am stopped by 2 guys in a UTE who have been making bets on my existence. Derek and Shane have been seeing my tracks in the sand for a while and Shane swore to Derek that there was a person on a push bike riding this road; Derek didn't want to believe it. Imagine Shane's joy at seeing me. Shane was really animated and replayed the story of how he knew I was out there telling Derek he could sense they were close he had been watching the vehicle marks and seeing that mine were not run over he knew I was close and as they came around the corner there I was. He was so happy .well I think he was so happy because he was stoned and had been drinking which is OK in my book I mean he wasn't driving. Derek offered me some fruit bars and a few Buds for the road, all gladly accepted I rode on, Derek and Shane hollering their fool heads off as they pass me by.

As darkness looms I call on my 7th sense to find my spot soon enough I am putting up the tent in a nice quarry about 300m from the road. The area I am in has a lot off dead wood so I go about gathering up a supply to make a fire something I usually don't do if I am close to the road. While I am gathering wood I disturb a bunch of what I can only describe as cockroaches ,they look like one but act funny when approached they stick up there ass ends in defense strange and gross all in one. I also see a hole in the ground surrounded by small rocks covered in a web like mortar, I take a pic then place a rock on the hole just in case it is the home of a funnel web spider, deadly they are.

Have you ever heard the saying 'a chill went down my spine' I have heard it but until tonight had never felt it let me set the scene. Darkness has fallen and the fire has gone down to embers glowing red and how against the night, I am snuggled warmly in my sleeping bag staring at the stars and listening to a large animal snapping branches as it moves through the forest not far away, thoughts of bears and wolves fill my head but I know I am in the safest biking country probably in the world, nothing here but snakes, spiders, Crocs and maybe a brahma Bull if you made it mad could do you harm. So I let go the thoughts of being eaten, I am just drifting off to sleep when a loud snap by the tent send a chill down my body from head to toe, I am still in that in between state of being awake and asleep so I see what looks like sparkler going off as the chill passes my eyes and head down to my toes. I awake with a start and the tingling still in my feet. I listen but nothing happens so I give a shout out just to make sure if it is a Dingo it goes away. Dingoes are not a problem I just don't want it scavenging food off me. Finally I fall asleep.

Camp to Quarry: Not feeling it today

Monday June 27, 2011, 42 miles (68 km) - Total so far: 8,539 miles (13,742 km)

June 27th More rough road awaited me upon departure today and I find my legs are getting heavy it takes me about 2 hours to get the groove, when I finally get it and am flying along on a now improved road a vehicle stops and 3 people jump out and tackle me to the ground 'federal agents the man and woman are yelling at me' .OK that didn't happen!! they stepped out of the car and waited for me to arrive 'Aaron? The lady asks I could be depends on what you want I say. She explains that Noel was contacted by the other driver and would be on the way to help as soon as he gets back from his flight around the Kimberley. Remember I said the message would not arrive to him in the same fashion as I had told it. The nice couple who relayed the message made it sound like I was in trouble and needed help now, not the case. It was explained to me that Noel had heard about my trouble and need for help and posted a note they took the note knowing they were headed towards me and would be on the Gibb before the Junction to Drysdale were Noel was, so they delivered the message. I thanked them and continued on to the Junction of the Gibb and Drysdale road.

At the Junction there are picnic tables and shade so I wrote a note to Noel and waited for a car going to Drysdale to take it to the statin there and post it so he would see it. I also posted one on the garbage collection area in case he came by before the note was posted. Soon I found a car and they took the note with them and I was back on the road. At this point in the Gibb you head directly east and with that comes a head wind of magnified proportions as well as the begging of a lot of rolling hills and bad road, bad road in the sense that the road has little sand and smaller corrugations but it is covered in loose rocks that make it as jarring as riding on the corrugated parts. I find a bit of smoothness on the very extreme shoulder almost in the brush.

I cross the Barrack River and at first I am a bit disappointed as the trickle of water is murky ad not what I would call a river more like a creek. But as I travel on I see it is a wide and I mean wide river after another km I come to another sign that says barrack river and here the water is flowing deep and wide, lunch time has arrived so I stop in the shade next to the road. As I am sitting many vehicles go by and I watch them cross giving each one a crossing score as they pass me. The scoring is 10 being the highest and based on approach and speed of crossing 1 being the lowest and based on the same. Most get about a 7 and one guy I give a 8 to then drops to a 3 as he tries to make a sandy track on my side of the river he goes in but on the way out he stalls and almost gets stuck, then he backs up tries again and same result he just gets out of being bogged down. He even tries and different route same result engine straining to free him he makes it back to harder sand. I sit and watch expecting to be out in the sand digging this guy out when he finally gets smart and following the same track he went in on, gets some speed and with a bit of luck makes it back to the road. I even get to see a Road train cross the river which was pretty cool.

There are two Jump ups (hills) on this section of my ride and as I make the top of the last one the road swoops down and in the distance I can see a low lying ridge in the distance the Pentecost range comes into view, and with that the river of the same name now beckons me to cross it and in a couple days I will do just that. With the road in bad shape I don't make as far as I would like as the sun start to dip towards the horizon. Looking for a spot I find a road leading to another quarry type place, but a pond on the other side means Mozzies so I follow the road back a little further and find a nice spot at the very end of the road looking out over a small valley it's a beauty of a camp spot and I know I am at least 2k from the road so I won't be bothered.

Quarry to Quarry: another slow day

Tuesday June 28, 2011, 48 miles (77 km) - Total so far: 8,587 miles (13,820 km)

June 28th Worse road awaits me today as I bumped and jarred my way down the Gibb. Climbing up and down all day combined with the heat has made me a bit tired so I take a long break next to a River that has trees bent to the angle of the rushing water looking around I can see above my head a good 2m debris in the trees and not just in one or two but in many. That means the water is at least 12 feet higher than what its current level is, heard to believe so much water can come through here when you look around it seems so arid. I am feeling a bit more fatigued today than usual and struggle to make the km count in the end I camp early at 3pm calling it a half day. 

Quarry to Pentecost camp

Wednesday June 29, 2011, 48 miles (77 km) - Total so far: 8,635 miles (13,897 km)

June 29th I know that today I am going to cross the Pentecost River and for some reason it is like a mile stone and has been calling me for a few days, I know it is there, it is the biggest crossing on the Gibb as well as being home to some Salties as well. I feel like one of the kids form Stephen Kings book 'The Body' 4 boys went out in search of a kid who disappeared while picking berries by the Royal River 'The Royal' as they called it separated them from the last place the kid was seen. And for me The Pentecost River was my 'Royal' the last separation from me and the end of the dirt, one last obstacle to conquer. It would be a fight all the way to the river.

The wind had picked up and the road was loose and really hard to ride I struggled to make miles count and as noon was approaching I had my first flat tyre of the trip .Ok it wasn't on my bike but on an SUV I stopped at the top of a Jump up to take a look at the valley and noticed a man under a truck struggling a bit, so I asked if I could help, the woman in the team said 'yes please'. So George and I set about fixing a flat on his truck, the second they had since leaving and they had a long way to go. Flat fixed and a payment of 2 apples and 2 oranges was arranged and off I went with Georges assurance that the Pentecost was no more than 5km away.

I stopped for a couple hours under a tree next to the road and watched as vehicle rolled by, one was a big rig carrying on top a load of bicycles and passengers on the side was the words Avanti , which is the name of a bike maker in OZ. Earlier I stopped and talked to a couple who told me about the group and that they ride for about 25km then take are picked up eat lunch and then ride for a bit more, kind of like easy Gibb travel except you are paying a fortune to do what you can do on your own.

I leave a bit early thinking I will make the Pentecost in a little while but the reality is that it is 25km more than what the guy had told me and by the time I make the last climb and can look out over the valley and the river in the distance it is about 3pm, I stop at a turn out and take a few pic and a video. I speed on down the other side of the hill. It's now 4pm thinking I need to get water the closest place is a homestead 2km off the road so I head on down and fill up my 10L bag with good clean drinking water.

Today's 7th sense has let me down I found a road and followed back a ways until I could see the river in the distance, thinking I had found my spot I unload the bags , as I am wondering around I notice an outhouse in a field and close by a tarp set up for a camp, I then realize I am camped to close to someone else, so I pack up and head out looking for another spot at 430 I still have nothing and now am faced with the fact that I will have to cross the Pentecost today. So I race towards the river.

When I reach the river it is Big and deeper than I thought it might be, I take off my shoes and put on my Chaco Sandals for the crossing my Arkel bags are water proof and high up on the racks so I don't take them off to cross I just plow through, the bottom of the river is rocky and loose and the going is slow in the deep water which come up to my knees in places making progress slow and tiring. When I finally cross after a long slog I turn around to see where I came from and the sun is just starting to go down with the reflection on the water it is a Beautiful sight. I sigh with relief that in made it across and didn't get eaten. I push my bike up the sandy hill and find people camped out on an overlook; I ask if it is OK to camp there as well. As the sun sets it turns the sky a beautiful red reflecting on the River Below. I set up camp eat dinner and fall fast asleep.

Pentecost to Highway 1: One last fling on the Gibb...i thiink this road hates me

Thursday June 30, 2011, 38 miles (61 km) - Total so far: 8,673 miles (13,958 km)

June 30th Leaving at 6am on the nose I make my way up the rest of the hill. Today I am leaving the Gibb River Road behind me and hitting the Pave it is a bittersweet day.

While fighting my old and closest foe Wind I meet another cyclist on the road headed west on the Gibb she has a partner who is a bit behind, soon the three of us are talking about routes and the Gibb as well as the fact that one of the ladies lives in Alice Springs and offers me a place to stay while I am there, perfect since motels and the like are expensive. The 2 girls are riding Full Bounce Betties with BOB trailers, a good way to go on the Gibb. Leaving the 2 girls behind I make my way to my lunch spot the King River.

I stop like always for a couple hours and while there a few people stop for lunch as well. One vehicle is driven by the son of a really old guy named Percy. He came up the Gibb 50 years ago and has not been back since he has to be 90 at least and looks frail but is very mobile and likes to chat. I tell him about my journey and he tells me he travelled around the US on a push bike 60 years ago. Amazing to think he was riding around the US 4 years before my Parent was even born. They offer me a chicken sandwich for lunch and a bit of company which is always nice.

The son tells me there are 2 pieces of pave before the highway and it is about 20km further on, thanking them I leave. The road after the King river is terrible loose with large stones, hills and corrugations make it a really tough ride in fact it takes me 2 hours to cover the last 20km and almost 35min to do the last 2km it seems the Gibb is not going to let me off easy, between the wind picking up the bad road and heat above 36 in the sun I am having a hard time, I think I am also fatigued from the 11 days of rough and not so rough road.

As I pedal the last of the dirt I see the Highway sign signifying the end of a journey, I would well up with tears if I had any water in my system to make them, the last part was tough and I dint drink as much as I should of so I feel a bit dehydrated. I feel a great sense of accomplishment having taken on a tough road broken pieces of my bike and at times it would seem my spirit as well but never gave up. I leave the Gibb river road behind but I feel since I have swallowed enough dust over the last 11 days ill have the Gibb in me for a long time. I was going to make the turn to Kununarra and find a camp but decided to stay one last night as close to the Gibb as I could, I found a nice Quarry that overlooked the ranges I just passed through it was a beautiful and to a fantastic journey, the sunset on the mtns was great but the sunrise was worthy of songs

Camp to Kununurra

Friday July 1, 2011

July 1st I awoke this morning in no big rush to get on the road, I had only 30mi to Kununarra so I could take my time, I figured I would arrive close to lunch grab a real Burger then find a place to stay for the next 3 days.

As the light of the sun slowly beat back the night, the rays of the sun turned the high clouds a brilliant orange, red and purple hew, I was witnessing one of the best sunrises I have seen anywhere. After many picture were taken I packed up camp making my way back to the highway.

Rolling along on pavement is a lot different than the dirt I had for the last eleven days, it was fast and smooth , I could hear the tires humming as I sped along. It also means that all other objects on the road move faster as well cars, trucks and road trains seemed to be cruising at Mach-1, I was a bit unnerved at first but soon settled into a routine of watching how close a vehicle would come to hitting me just to pass as I was being passed from the other direction, it is so stupid and dangerous.

At 11am I cruised into Kununarra a small town that seem to be a bit haphazardly put together it has all you need in one place except reliable free internet, for that you need to go to the Pump house restaurant just outside of town. I stopped by the visitor info center to ask about the National Park close by, to bad I didn't ask about camping in the park, there is NONE. In the end I camped at the Kimberland caravan park on the lake, not bad for 13AU$. I have been here for 3 days doing laundry, showering a lot and updating friends and family about my trip

Kununurra: A few things to know

Saturday July 2, 2011

So you want to ride the Gibb River Road: Things to Know for the Journey

Friday July 1, 2011

Kununarra to Rest Area

Tuesday July 5, 2011, 49 miles (79 km) - Total so far: 8,722 miles (14,037 km)

I left at 730 form Kununarra thinking I might leave at noon but decided I could get the things I didn't get in Halls creek, the plan was to leave at noon ride as far as the Halls creek turn then camp well it was a plan. I was real pleased to finally have a tail wind and surprised how much faster I was traveling, this didn't last though and soon I found I was battling my old foe headwind strange because this is the same road I came in on and I had a headwind then too .conspiracy? The road is mostly flat with a few small hills and many nice little bluffs and out cropping's along the way. I saw my first sign of agriculture but I'm not sure what they are planning on planting as the wet season runs for 7 of the 12 months. I continued on until I came to the turn for halls creek stopped for a snack and was back on the road this time with a real nice tailwind driving me west.

By noon I had 49mi in and stopped at a 24hour rest for lunch just as the winds started to pick up and it was all side wind so I decided to call it a day and stay the night. Met a nice guy named Peter (one of 7 I will meet in 3 weeks) he is from Adelaide originally but has been traveling with his wife for 11 years all over OZ, super nice gave me water and good advice about road trains and camping in the wild, he said he stops for all cyclist on the road and tops off their water thanks mate for the support a real cyclist angel. Reg, another grey nomad came over after a while and we had a good yarn about cycling he is in his 60's and puts in a good amount of miles on the bike when he is at home , he and the wife travel for about 6mo (she won't stay away longer) have been all up and down the coast and along the Stuart highway, he loved to talk and it was a real pleasure having a conversation about bikes and the like, reminded me about how lonely this type of travel can be for a soloist like me.

Rest area to Creek side

Wednesday July 6, 2011, 69 miles (111 km) - Total so far: 8,791 miles (14,148 km)

59 degrees this morning made for a real pleasant start with no wind for the first hour and then a side tail wind until 1130 then the road dipped a bit southerly and I had a fierce head wind which slowed me down to a crawl and made me feel the weight of the 14days of food I was carrying as well as the extra 6lt of water. Hills are long sometimes but shallow so not really difficult. I was climbing a particularly long hill and it just seemed to be getting harder and harder so I stopped to do the I think I have a flat reasoning for my slowness and low and behold I actually did have a flat, the front tyre had a piece of wire in it, so much for the Kevlar liner, well one flat in a year I think I can handle it.

Flat fixed speed increased I cycles on. The area I am cycling in has a lot of low hills covered in brown grasses and pleasant looking trees that if you didn't know better you would swear someone planted a few meters apart it is all very orderly , I like the variety hills give to ride especially out here were it is so flat most of the time. Lunch finds me at a creek side hiding in the shade from the heat of the day ,I usually stay for about an hour maybe 2 and just relax I am not in a hurry and enjoy a languorous journey instead. Many cars pass and people wave to me as I sit and enjoy the day. Getting back on the bike I notice a few thorns in the tyres they look like smaller versions of our western U.S. Goathead thorns , I am not worried about a puncture because I am running Schwalbe Marathon tyres and these little stickers are no match for the robustness of the S.M.T.

I came a across a bridge that was condemned the road had been diverted around it and a new one looked like it might be built, but being there was no traffic on the bridge I rode across it as I did it creeked and moaned .now I see why it was condemned. I also noticed that the heavy rains of this year are to blame it was moved a bit from it's original foundation and was not at all safe to be on, I think I might take the 'condemned bridge' warning signs more seriously, though were I am headed I won't see a bridge for about 4 months more.

The shadows grow long around me trees becoming twice as tall as normal and my own shape become long and very lean I decide it is time to find a camp. As I am passing a sign that safe Road closed (another warning I will ignore) I decide if it is closed that means it is open to bike and not cars as I cross the stream I notice a caravan parked on the other side and a very familiar truck it turns out to be Reg and his wife form the night before, nice to see a familiar face, I set up camp next to them a few meters from the creek.

The creek is warm so I feel a shower is in order, I find a nice deep spot and wash away a few days of road grime, it feels fo good tom be clean, I also take advantage and do a little laundry mainly socks and the like, it will still be a few days before I am in Halls Creek and I still have the Bungle Bungle to do as well.

I spend a bit more time with Reg and the wife then call it a night. Sleep comes easy with the trickle of the creek nearby, the crickets in full orchestra and the soft breeze of the night.

Creek to Creek

Thursday July 7, 2011, 33 miles (53 km) - Total so far: 8,824 miles (14,201 km)

The scenery today changed to more green hills with spots of brown and gold mixed in with red rocks strewn about like a billiards game gone astray. The terrain rolled up and down and at times I was reminded of California and the similarities in the landscapes in the central northern part of the state to where I am at now. I have a tailwind today with some strong side gust in the afternoon. Today's ride has been great just rolling along at a nice easy pace, I am a bit early in my timing to be doing the Tanami road to Alice so I have been just poking along which really is how I like it. At noon I found a picnic area with a nice deep stream, ate lunch in the shade. Soon I was joined by Graham and his friend Graham they had been camped there a couple days and had to see what the crazy dude on the bike was all about, we had a good yarn and they invited me to have acoffe before I take off. I ate then headed on down to the stream to take a look and wash off a bit seeing the nice are I decide that even though I didn't have many miles in today I liked the stream and the sandy camp area close by so I called it a day, set up camp.

I met the wives Eileen and Judy and they invited me to Tea (dinner) later not much she said just Roasted Pork, peas , carrots, potatoes and the like .Not much that's like a cyclist dream food, I could not wait for dinner to come fast enough and when it did I was not disappointed, it is amazing what you can cook on an open fire with a camp stove. Everything was delicious and cooked perfectly, I ate one plate and they insisted I just keep on eating I finally had to swear I was stuffed it was dang good in fact I wish I had some now !!

Creek to Bungle Creek

Friday July 8, 2011, 18 miles (29 km) - Total so far: 8,842 miles (14,230 km)

I said goodbye to the Grahams and the wives and set off on my short trip to the Bungle Bungle turn. The road was much the same as yesterday with ash trees and rolling hills all the way.

I arrived at the gate to the B.B. and was informed that I was not the first cyclist to ride into the bungle a Girl did last week and 2 swiss had been in a few days ago, so no hope of glory there. On the bright side there is NO charge for a Cyclist to enter the gate, I was also told that the first 10km are the worst and then it gets better (don't listen to anyone) so in I rode determined to make it to the camp site by night fall.

I stopped at the office to inquire about the road a bit more and was told the same thing, and there are 32 creek crossing none of which is major but still it's a lot to cross. I loaded up my 10L water bag and set off. As luck would have it I had a nice stiff headwind and my ass was not happy with me about the corrugated road, my knees were screaming bad words and my mood soon soured not being able to sit properly on the seat I decided that with the 1100km Tanami coming up in a few days I should turn around so with my mind and body saying NO NO go in my Ass pulled a veto and I left feeling a bit defeated.

I made my way across from the Bungle Bungle to the road side rest and found yet another creek and Reg and his wife camped there as well, seems I am traveling about as fast as they are. Being that I am ahead of myself I will stay here a couple days. Reg came over and asked where I had been he expected me yesterday he would have driven me in with the wife , I told him about the creek and the nice camp , being of like mind he understood completely. I had been told that there was another touring cyclist either behind or ahead of me and even that he was going to camp at the creek side tonight, so I figured if he is out there he will see me bike right away since I am in the first spot when you come down to the creek from the parking area above, I didn't see him pull in that night.

You get the feeling your being watched and sure enough I was an older fella and his wife had been looking at me for some time and finally he came over and introduced himself as Vic said he and his wife would love it if I joined them for tea (dinner) not much he said just veg and Sausages in gravy with a side of bread man I think I need to trade in the cycling and become a gray nomad they are eating like kings compared to my meager meals. I strolled over about 6pm and sat down to a delightful meal with wine and great company. Vic was asking about my route around OZ and when I mentioned the Great Central Road he told me that I should see a Movie called 'Northern Safari' it's about a guy and his wife, sister and a dog named king (or fearless as I would learn later) who take a 48 Studebaker with a diesel engine installed from Perth in Western OZ all the way across to Darwin and even points further NW, all this done with NO support crew and done back in 1960 when the roads all around OZ were mostly Dirt, Turned out they had a copy on DVD so after dinner I got to see a classic picture show. Vic is a man of innovation and converted a box trailer into a very nice and comfortable living space complete with pantry at the rear to gull wing stlye doors that access the bed and a nice medium size flat screen for movies and the like.

I watched the 'Northern Safari' with absolute amazement it was all true a super heavy car 2 girls and a dog that would attack anything that came its way, a Jack Russell terrier not a big dog but know for its hunting skills, they drove this car pulling a trailer and a boat on top of that from Perth Across the Great Central Road that at the time was literally a track not even a road.....you need to see it to believe it great movie all shot, narrated and produced by this crazy guy and his 2 companions.

I went toi bed that evening thinking How can I not ride the GCR if a guy in a 2 tonne 48 car can do surely I can on a 35kg bike. I planned on staying the night again tomorrow as I was in no hurry, I dint bother to se the alarm.

Rest day

Saturday July 9, 2011

Bungle Bungle: No Problem the road gets better after 10K.....Yeah Sure it does!!

Sunday July 10, 2011, 40 miles (64 km) - Total so far: 8,882 miles (14,294 km)

In the morning over breakfast I mentioned my failed attempt at the Bungle Bunlge , they both said I should do it is so worth it, then Reg came over and chimed in the same thing, beside the girls told me the road was better after 10k . I held a conference with my Arse to see how it felt about it and it was decided that if I could get rid of some of my gear I could then attempt it again. I separated my essential 2 days in the Bungle stuff with not Bungle stuff said good bye to the girls, thanked Reg for the hospitality over the last few stops and took off once again to the BB.

I said hello to the gate keeper once again he wished me luck and made my way back to the headquarters to see if I could leave me stuff with them it wasn't a problem. Lighter of load and more determined then ever I returned to the road of my failure with a new attitude 'conquer or die' OK leave out the die part.

The road did change after 10km it got worse way worse! Instead of the nice bouncy corrugations and sand I now had loose rock and imbedded stones to bounce and jar my way over it was tough going only at times did it ease up and that was mostly at the creek crossing just due to the slowing of the cars. Even though the road was tough the scenery around me made up for it; rolling hills that I would climb up and down covered in green grasses, ash trees and red rocks popping up all over so very green and picturesque combine that with the creek crossing and it was in environment a very nice ride, at times I would think about the Tanami and how glad I am that it is 99% flat.

The wind was as expected a head wind and was so strong that on some of the steeper rockier hills I had to walk I just couldn't keep momentum when the wind would gust. After what seemed like a long ride I made it to the National Park and found out I had to pay to get in, having left my Money locked in my computer case I opted to risk camping illegally instead of turning back or asking someone for the money it is 11$for the camping and 5$for the entry that is for a Motorcycle no category for a Pushbike. I was talking to someone about my plan to see both sides even though I knew them to be 40km apart at the longest end they seemed a bit surprised I then told them I was not planning on riding but hitching a ride .Leaving the N.P. HQ the road really got bad corrugations and sand for the 13km trek to the camp ground it was a hard ride but in the end I found a nice place to camp and even a ride to the Bungles.

Setting up camp a guy strolled over and introduced himself as Peter said he was leaving in about an hour to the Closest side of the Bungle and I was welcome to come along, he said he had overheard my conversation but thought I would be several hours till I got to the camp sight not an hour. I ate luch packed the camera and Peter and I set off to see what all this Bungle Bungle Biz was all about.

On the right side of the Bungle range is the Cathedral gorge and another trail leading to a series of gorges much farther inside the mountain we did the Cathedral hike and part of the other. The BB is really something special, from a distance it looked to me a lot like the Sedona area of Arizona but as we got closer the true scale texture of the rock and formations are like nothing I have seen I am so very glad I came to see this World Heritage Site.

Back at camp I was famished so I ate 2 packets of noodles and still felt like I had a hole in my stomach, I'll need to up the calories for the Tanami for sure.

Bungle Bungle part Duex

Monday July 11, 2011

July 11th no miles We returned this morning to the Cathedral side of the Bunlges , peter was told the light was better on this side in the am, seemed the same to me. Hiking up the Pinnacles trail a bit was very cool the creek bed I made mostly of sand stone and the water has carved out deep fissures and eddies some so big you can stand in them, at time it looked like a scale model of a greater canyon a very impressive sight. Hiking further up we found water and lots of dead or dying fish, suppose that's just the cycle of life though it was sad to see. On the return we stopped at the view point a sweeping view of one section of the bungles the red and black striped formations sticking up like giant rounded cones, found out the black is lichen and the red is from the oxidization of the iron in the soil, the bungles themselves form from the erosion of the soft sand leaving a crust over the core.

Driving over to the other side of the bungles I was glad to not be riding more bad road and sandy sections along the way. On this side we hiked up to see the Echidna Chasm a sweet narrow gorge with high sand stone side that lead deep into the Bungle range, the sun giving the rock a soft glow making for a warm and inviting space a splendid hike. After the Chasm we went to do the final gorge Mini Palm Gorge a long 5km return up and back along a stony creek bed was not super fun but the Gorge it's self was nice even if the entire mini palm growth was destroyed in the recent flooding.

Back in camp I discovered that I had no more lunch items left so I had a packet of noodles instead. Tomorrow my plan is to catch a ride out since I rode in well see how that goes.

Leaving the Bumgle: No space for you in my empty truck....I mean really were would i put you?

Tuesday July 12, 2011, 40 miles (64 km) - Total so far: 8,922 miles (14,359 km)

Creek to Creek: Water searching seems to be my hobby

Wednesday July 13, 2011, 39 miles (63 km) - Total so far: 8,961 miles (14,422 km)

Creek to Halls Creek: Hitching a ride

Thursday July 14, 2011, 40 miles (64 km) - Total so far: 9,001 miles (14,486 km)

I awoke again in the same manner as yesterday. I slowly and with some effort packed my stuff, Anthony noticed my lack luster appearance and as he had the night before offered to take me to Halls Creek about 40k away, I agreed and we loaded the bike up and were off. The drive to Halls creek was almost all down or flat and as the previous days the road flowed through green hills and Ash trees really a nice ride if you do it, but I was looking for 2 full days on in Halls Creek, my body needed it bad.

At first appearance Halls creek is not that bad looking of a place, it's a small town with nice trees on most of the streets a well done Visitors center and it is next to a creek though the water is not flowing at the moment. I had imagined a baron patch of scrub brush on a plain with hill far of in the dusty distance , rundown buildings and hard looking people, dust blowing across the streets and men holding down there hats as they lean against a gale that would blow constantly .what I found was of course not so.

I met another Cyclist in the Caravan Park named Steven he is riding Highway 1 all the way around and started, I think 3 months ago for the south, very nice guy we seemed to get along great and had a similar sense of humor to bad he is not going down the Tanami or I around the outside would be nice to travel with someone for a while, we both have a long road ahead of us. There is No Coles grocer only an IGA in town but it is well stoked but expensive, I picked up all the food I needed for the Tanami as well as stuff I was craving but didn't need like cookies and such. I have never been so close to running out of food before and so I got extra to make sure I never get that close again, cost me a fortune.

I went over to the police station to register. At first it was not easy he was not willing to register me , telling me that they don't do that anymore since no one ever follows through on the Alice side so they never really know if people made it out or not a lot of wasted man hours. After I explained I was mentally unstable because I am riding a push bike down the track he soon agreed I was crazy and took down all my info and even opened up a work report on me so it would pop up on the 1st of August if I didn't call them. He took down all the info including my tattoos, weight, height, eye color and vitals made me feel good that I would be easy to identify.

Rest Day: Meeting nice People

Friday July 15, 2011

Halls Creek: Things you should Know

Saturday July 16, 2011, 59 miles (95 km) - Total so far: 9,060 miles (14,581 km)

HALLS CREEK: things to know. * There is NO Coles in HC so expect to pay a lot more for Groceries IGA and another local store are the only choices in town * I didn't find any interweb café but the visitor center may know * There is no McDonalds in town so no WiFi * If the German kid is still working at the Visitors center talk to him he rode the Tanami and can tell you a bit about it, plus he is nice guy. * The police won't register you for the Tanami unless you explain that you're on a push bike and perhaps mentally unstable, some of you may think this is unnecessary; let me give you the facts. The Tanami is 900KM of dirt there is 600km without services, People have died out here and gone missing without a trace 2 people in the weeks I was on the road so don't think it won't or can't happen. If it rains the road can become impassable and it would be nice if you could be found and rescued as it can stay this way for weeks as the mud makes driving impossible. This is also a good way to make sure there is a search for you if something should happen, if no one knows you're out on the Track NO one will search for you, It only takes about 20min and it's good piece of mind. You can't rely on a SAT phone to save you and electronics fail all the time so take the time REGISTER. * It is not safe to just leave your bike by the grocer and go in make sure it is locked to something sturdy, there is NO bike rack so find a pole or fence. * The town may seem like a nice quiet place butat night it come to life and people are out and about making all kinds of drunken ruckus. I was a bit unnerved by all the noise it was not just drunken behavior I could hear but domestic violence is rampant as well * The HC Caravan park is a good deal , NO WiFi but Hot showers and a nice place to camp with drinkable water. * The ELECTRICITY at the Caravan park cost money so if you want to charge something take it to the office, there is NO sign saying this and the people running the counter don't mention it but I got busted for not knowing and told I was stealing electric even though no one ever told me it was pay and there are NO signs reflecting such!! I used it late at night when everyone was unplugged and asleep no one knew and I didn't 

Day 1

Saturday July 16, 2011, 59 miles (95 km) - Total so far: 9,060 miles (14,581 km)

I got an early start today as I was not sure what to expect on the road ahead. As I was leaving I ran into the German Cyclist, we had a good yarn about the road ahead, he sounded real enthusiastic about my trip and his eventual return to the bike after the season ended.

14km lead me to the turn onto the Tanami the 1100km loomed ahead. I stopped for the obligatory photos then made the turn and immediately the dirt started and so did the sand and deep corrugations it was bad for a while then the rhythm set in and I was able to find my places to ride just about the time I had gotten my groove a tour bus passed me with gawking faces staring at me through the window. As I came to a small bend in the road I noticed the tour bus pulled over and a large group of passengers hanging out on the road as I approached the cameras were raised, I stopped and told the group I would juggle and sing for 15$each, they laughed and said they had to stop and cheer me on, I was very appreciative of the support.

The road soon got better and I was cruising along with a side slight tail wind, I even passed through 3 creeks that had water and climbed a few hills not the totally desolate place I was told at least not yet! Around Ruby Plains I hit some loose stuff as I was stopped a group of 4x4 drivers who had seen me at Windjana, Kununarra, Bungle Bungle and now Tanami stopped and gave me water, seems I am moving at the same speed they are. After Ruby plains the road is super straight for a long time and gets really bad so I had to start riding on the Cow track, I did this for most of the rest of the day even after 30km more I was still riding the cow track when I found my place to camp. A tough day today long stretches of sand and corrugations glad I was able to ride on the cow track saved me a lot of pushing.

While I had some reservations about doing such a long and isolated track I now feel it is like anything I have done I'll get though it by taking it one day at a time.

Day 2

Sunday July 17, 2011, 54 miles (87 km) - Total so far: 9,114 miles (14,668 km)

Before I left camp this morning I decided it would be a good idea to test fire my Bear Spray since I have been carrying it for over a year, not sure with all the dirt and stuff it is still works, so I step away from camp and push the button, BAM a spray goes out and a mist appears; satisfied I return to what I am doing. The wind had not picked up yet so the spray lingered in the area, soon it found its way to me I was choking and could not see well my eyes watered and I had to move all my stuff away just so I could get packed, I was about 20 feet from the tent when I sprayed it and downwind so I was not prepared to be assaulted by my own spray, dam powerful stuff.

After a short tough bit the road improved and flowed downhill for a longtime taking me out of the tree cover and into the plains for the first 'time. About 100km form HC is a large pullout and tree for camping not too much further is a creek but no water in it, nice camping all around this area. As I passed by the creek I was suddenly struck with a creepy feeling as I looked down one side of it not sure why, maybe it was the way the trees looked, seems I'll never know. The road was nice for a long time then I came to a section of White road that was made of embedded stones and corrugations very hard to ride on, I couldn't find a rhythm that worked. I was soon over taken by the Caravans in Peter's party, they stopped and gave me water, Peter and I confirmed the drop off for the water later on and a couple of the others gave me invites of places to stay in Adelaide. Back on the road I noticed a red road on the side of the white one so I headed over to it hard packed it was easy to ride and lasted a long time. When I was close to Bililuna the road changed to a sand pit and I pushed my bike for 4km until I got to the turn.

Biliuna an Aboriginal community is the last place to get water until you get to Yundemu 600km away, unless you stop at the Granites mine which I did. I rolled into town and was taken aback by the amount of trash, burned up cars, torn apart houses, vagrant dogs and disrepair of the place it was like being in a 3rd world country and all I did was ride 2km off the main track. It is really sad that these people have NO respect for themselves and act the way they do it is of course not the same in every community but in the majority it is all too much like this as I found out talking to a Building management supervisor later during my trip. The sign at the entry says STAY OUT and the further I went in looking for the store the more I felt I should have taken that advice I was uncomfortable to say the least. At last I found a family sitting in the yard strangely in the dirt as the chairs around them sat empty, I asked about the store being Sunday it was closed so I got water from them, in exchange I gave them a package of cookies I wasn't going to eat seemed a fair trade. I left a lot quicker than I had arrived. As I was leaving a car came speeding past me kids hanging on the rail on the back as it swerved all over the road I was sure one of them would fly out.

I rode another 5km when I came to Sturt Creek; at this point I had done 80km for the day and thought this may be my last chance to be next to a flowing creek so I stopped for the day. I made my way past the giant garbage pile and headed to a road in the back of the turnout it lead to a nice grassy area far removed from the ugliness of the garbage I found a place to camp and settled in

Day 3

Monday July 18, 2011, 36 miles (58 km) - Total so far: 9,150 miles (14,726 km)

Leaving early I continued on a good road for a while then got a few patchy pieces of pavement and eventually the white road returned but this time it wasn't as bad and I bounced along it just fine. After the white road the sand returned but unlike before this was too deep to ride and there was No shoulder to rely on so I pushed my bike for 12km until the road improved after 4hours I found a shady places for lunch a burned out up turned truck was my shady spot, with so few trees around you take what you can get. After the truck stop the road returned to un ride able sand, as I crested a small hill I could see the valley before me and a red sandy road stretchy into forever ahead of me, with no other choice I pushed on, an hour later I came to the other side crested a small hill and the scenery repeated itself, more long straight road and more sand I pushed on.

I was just about to the other side of the valley when a truck pulled up next to me, the driver and only person in the car had a video camera pointed at me and was filming me push my bike down the road, so I stopped and we chatted for a few moments. The hour was 430 and I had done only 30mi for the day I was in need of finding a camp spot but had not seen anything descent all day. so I asked the Guy his name is Gert if he could give me a ride to the Border about 40km away he said he was headed there to camp so no problem. Bike and gear loaded we drove on I was very surprised when we came to a sign that said Border 90km , I looked at my map , this can't be right it says it should be 40 form were I was we drove into the night the road never improving except to become very bad corrugation's for the last 90km, it was never my intention to take a ride this far but as it was night and it had taken us 20min to load everything I was not about to ask the guy to stop and let me out, plus the road was real shit.

After we got to the border and set up camp I took a long hard look at my map turns out they marked from Bililuna to the Tanami mine turn as 153km it isn't the 153km it only to the Border it's another 70 km to the mine, how could they so royally mess that up??? It was dark by the time we arrived, someone had taken the only camping spot by the road so when cruised to the back and set up camp there. I am a bit bummed about the map being so wrong and the ride so far but what can you do.

Day 4

Tuesday July 19, 2011, 40 miles (64 km) - Total so far: 9,190 miles (14,790 km)

After crossing the border the time changes ahead 1.30hr so I was able to sleep in until 7:30 well not really but it felt that way. The road leaving the Border is pretty good a bit of sand and corrugations but nothing unrideable. The terrain is a lot different with ash trees and finches all about except for the wind it has been a good ride so far.

I stopped for lunch on a side road that is parallel to the main road sat my bike on the sie and put out my blanket to catch a snooze. A few trucks passed me by on the way south and a few going north but no one stopped soon a couple of trucks came down the road I was on I guess they liked the idea of a side track even though the main road was in good shape, because my bike was on the road they had to slow down a few said HI then one slowed and instead of saying hello or asking if I was OK he said 'that's a really stupid place to park your bike Mate!' and started to drive off so I replied 'you're not driving on the actual Track Mate ruining the road' he didn't stop and I didn't care, so I went back to snoozing.

I was staring at a dead caterpillar not sure why then it dawned on me that something was missing; ANTS there are no Ants eating the caterpillar or wandering around never been to a place that didn't have ants, it's a strange, strange world. I came across a few cans of food that had fallen off a truck , someone abviously didn't store there food properly and lost it , so I took a look around and found a few cans of tuna though I was not sure of how long hey had been there so I didn't take them but I did find a un-opened jar of a chocolate stuff called 'Chocolate Mudd' so I stored it and opened it later it was good, YUM chocolate.

The temperatures have dropped since I left Halls Creek the days not so hot and the nights cool and getting colder as I travel south last night it was 45deg and only 90deg in the direct sun 83 in the shade a pleasant temp for riding if you have the headwind as I always do. The wind blows hard all day until about 40min before sundown then it slows a bit and dies as soon as the sun drops below the horizon.

I found a great place to camp in a Quarry about 1km back from the road at 392.64 km from HC there is a road follow it back and you can camp anywhere you want in nice flat spaces.

Day 5

Wednesday July 20, 2011, 45 miles (72 km) - Total so far: 9,235 miles (14,863 km)

Last night a Dingo came into my camp stole some garbage so I chased him away, got back some of what he took. I watched as he went to the far side of the Quarry out of site, I could then here the can and garbage bag being rifled through, soon the sounds stopped so I switched on my light to see if I could see his eyes in the dark and sure enough he was looking into my light I kept it on him as he crossed the quarry moving left and right as I watched him he came back to the camp, I switched my light on and off so he would know I was there but he never stopped coming staying out of the bushes it walked back up the slope towards me in fact he walked to within 3 feet of me and stopped, looking at me then at the garbage. When he started towards the garbage I let him have it with some bear spray, he was quick and the blast missed his face but he got a good dose and ran off stopping a few yards away I threw rocks and yelled and he never came back. I wasn't trying to hurt it just make sure it didn't come back and perhaps learn a lesson about people.

Just about the time I was falling asleep I started hearing a strange breathing sound like an animal was not getting enough air it was in distress, the sound was close enough to keep me from sleeping. I got out of the tent looked around shinning my light back and forth. I could clearly hear a labored breathing sound kind of like a sudden inhale then a slow exhale that was as if air was being forced out of a closing airway as I swept my light back it suddenly stopped I waited and it didn't come back so I went to sleep.

In the morning as I was making coffee the Breathing sound came back. Being light out I decided I should try to find the source of the distress so I set out with my bear spray just in case. I began to think it might be a camel that had fallen in a hole and broken a leg or donkey perhaps as both run wild out here, I was hoping i would not have to kill an animal that is suffering , the big question was if I did find a severely hurt animal how would I kill it beat it to death with my bike pump? As I followed the sound it got louder I was getting close it was so clear I knew it was an animal in some kind of trouble the breathing was erratic now and sounding very close. I felt like I was right on top of it when it stopped. I stood for a long time but it never came back, looking around I couldn't find anything, the only animals I did see were a couple of Eagles about 100yards away and fifty yards apart not even close to each other they flew away and I returned to camp never finding out what caused the distressed breathing sounds .Strange!!

Leaving camp I found the road to be pretty good with only a couple places I had to push the bike. I made good time to the Tanami mine road turnoff and the drop point for my water supply from Peter. I found the water behind the sign my name on the 3 5L jerry cans all full of water so now I had 15L plus the six I was carrying already. Now I was carrying 30LB more weight and the bike felt super heavy, which didn't matter to much the road became like Pave, I was flying along at 17kmh, Km flying by I was able to pound out 29mi in 3hrs unlike yesterday's 18 in 4H though the wind is still bad. There are plenty of camp sites close to the mine for a cycle tourist if need be but my camp was hours away.

I've been seeing repeater towers along the way so I stopped and ate lunch at one, nice flat area of cement and a bit of shelter form the wind, kind of cold today in the shade so I ate lunch in the sun. Back on the road a vehicle stopped and the passengers took pictures and asked a lot of questions then unexpectedly they pulled out wallets and scraped together 15$and handed it to me, for a meal they said, seriously did I look that bad?? I am really surprised how many people don't stop but zip on buy, seems strange since I am a real oddity out here.

The road continues to be good if I ride on the extreme shoulder an mere 8in section of hard pack, if not the sand is deep enough to make riding harder than it really needs to be. The only real problem with this tricky riding is the occasional veering off the hard pack then back again the rear wheel suddenly catches I fear I cold bend the wheel or break a spoke so it is easy does it. My map is wrong again I pass a road marked to a community before I make it to Rabbit Flats the map says Rabbit Flats is before the Road it isn't it is 5km south of the road. Here's A bit of advice Do NOT Buy ROUGH GUIDE MAPS. When dealing with desert situations like I am accuracy is very important HEMA maps are the best for sure. Rabbit Flats used to be a roadhouse stop on the Tanami road making the distance between stops shorter now it is closed permanently so the distance form one community to the next is 580km.

Just past RF the road turns to a packed hopefully graded mud flat with some of the biggest termite mounds I have ever seen. I was tempted to go look at a couple but the high grass and fear of snakes made me stick to the road and just take pics from afar, some of these were at least a meter higher than my head and as large in diameter as a car. I would love to come see these again someday and take a closer look.

Just after the flats the trees return and on the left hand side is a road leading to a great quarry for camping I spend the night here , this time without a dingo or breathing problem 463.23km from HC

Day 6

Thursday July 21, 2011, 42 miles (68 km) - Total so far: 9,277 miles (14,930 km)

Cold this morning 40deg, left camp at 8am with the wind rising the bad road, good road and sand 2hrs saw me do only 13mi not a great start. Lots of open country today with few trees along the road, just yesterday I was in the trees again. It really is a diverse area with so many changes in just a few km the whole desert is so beautiful; a truly amazing ride so far. I found a cool lizard on the road I think it was a Blue tongue, at first I thought it was dead it wasn't moving even when I came close so I got a tent pole out and poked at it, the lizard puffed up and started flicking his tongue at me which was Blue, then it moved under my bike tyres shade so I poked him to get him moving off the road he then attacked my tent pole and came after me, made me jump back a bit as it came around the bike and behind the front tire, so I poked him again until he finally moved off the road, what a cool lizard and really the first animal I have seen up close.

Since I was only 5km from the Granites mine I stopped in to see about a place to eat lunch out of the wind and sun, turns out they have tables and a bathroom to use, the guards said to make myself at home so I set up lunch and relaxed for a while too bad no Hamburgers. A few people I spoke to said that the road got better after the granites mine in fact the word 'highway' was used a lot, not sure what kind of highway they had been on but this road ws NO highway it was corrugated really bad and super sandy all I could do was push the bike and ride at about 4mph for several hours standing on the pedals as I rode since the bouncing was a pain in my but literally!

I made a plan about distance when I saw a tree way up the road it was so straight and flat I could see forever so I trudged on the bad road looking up at times for a my tree, though the road was terrible I kept going, thinking I would have stopped but there was no turnout and no place to camp since before the mine so I had no choice beside the tree was calling to me to get to it. When I finally got there I thought maybe I could camp next to it but there was not good spot, so I moved on down the road. Just after the tree about 50m I found a nice turnout set back from the road.

After I got camp set up I set about making tea as I always do, I make a cup then I make dinner. As I was getting things out I could not find my cup, then it hit me I left my cup in the bathroom at the mine site. I was so pissed I NEVER clean my cup in the bathroom. I remember going into the bathroom with the cup cleaning it and even telling myself NOT to forget it and sure enough I did just that. I was not a happy camper ( I made a funny pun) man I was pissed , I even thought about riding back in the dark 20km to get it but decided that the 20km had taken me hours due to the bad road and I was not going out in the dark, just s I was thinking it 3 road trains passed by my camp lighting up several km of road as well as the whole road as they roared along.

I decided that the best course of action is to hitch back to the mine in the morning and retrieve my favorite cup. I went to bed mad at myself a little ticked I did something so stupid mainly because now I had not cup for tea or coffee.

Day 7

Friday July 22, 2011

July 22nd 5:44:30 43.25mi 69.6km I slept in today since I was going to take a day off and hitch hike back to the mine leaving all my stuff at camp, beside I had no coffee and no drive to get up early. I took some food water electronics and cash left all the rest in the tent and headed to the road.

30 minutes ticked away no one passed by. As I stood in the cold morning air the sun warming me only slightly I thought hard about the cup and its real meaning to me, did it mean that much was hitching back and wasting a whole day worth it? I decided it wasn't and went back to camp. I packed my stuff and made my way back to the road in that time no vehicles passed bye. I had a new plan now, I would stop and ask a driver going towards the mine if they could stop and ask the security to send it south with the next truck.

After an hour of riding the first vehicle of the day passed by, I asked the driver about stopping at the mine but he didn't seem that keen on the idea. I met my first Police officers today, they stopped and asked how I was doing and commented on me being crazy or close to it. Another hour passed and in the distance I could see and hear a motorcycle approaching as the driver came closer he slowed and stopped in front of me. The bike was loaded to the max, the driver also had a large backpack on so he was a bit hunched over on the bike. We talked about what I was doing out here and why he had so much gear on. He explained that the group there were 3 others behind him and the other guy who stopped were all doing the Tanami then back down the Canning Stock route. I asked about fuel and he said they each had 63L on board and should be fine to do the entire 2500km Stock route. I was impressed as the Canning stock route is one of the hardest by Bicycle or Motorbike in all of Australia and probably most of the world, 900 sand dunes no services and no one will come out to help either.

I told the bike rider about the cup I left at the mine and asked if he might stop by and see about it, he said he would do better than that he would get the cup himself and pass it on to a driver headed south. As we parted ways he said with a big grin on his face 'you shall have your cup by the end of the day' and drove away leaving me to waonder if he would really do it. I rode on with a bit of hope and skepticism.

Today I counted the most vehicles I have seen on the Tanami 20 or so, about 6 of those stopped to chat, give me water or food stuffs, I wouldn't rely on them for food but it seems like a moving grocery store. The road hasn't been good today and didn't get much better as the day was wearing on. I came to the dreaded white road again but this time it was smoother than before, this didn't last and soon changed to embedded rock a jarring ride. As I was bouncing down the road I could hear a truck approach slowing down as it got close to me, as the truck came by I could see the passenger was holding an object in her hand as I stared at the object, the reality of what I was looking at hit me MY MUG!!!

The Vehicle stopped and the driver got out holding my MUG I was so happy I could have cried. The driver explained that the Motorcyclist came along and gave him the cup explaining that I would be so very happy to get it back, he wasn't kidding I was thanking the guy over and over again. The couple loaded me up with water and a hunk of cheese as well as a nice cold chocolate milk, just as they were driving off the truck stopped and as I rolled up to them the guy was holding a pack of Potato Chips out the window as I took them he said ' this little girl insisted that I give you these, she said you needed them' I looked in the truck and in the back seat was a cute little girl of about 5 years old staring at me with big eyes and a little smile on her precious face. I thanked her very much and safely stowed them in my Handle bar Bag.

Down the road a bit I met the other 3 motorcyclist 2 guys and a girl all decked out like the other 2. We talked for about 20min about travel, politics and the state of the economy in the US as well as the Bubble he felt Australia was in that was about to burst. After the Moto's I talked to a group of caravan drivers and they said I had about 10km before I came to a section of Pave that ran for about 10km, stoked about a chance to ride on some pave I pedaled on. The pavement was a blessing to ride on smooth like butter and fast, or at least I felt fast. As the day wore on and the pave gave way to dirt again I was not finding a good place to camp, not until I saw a repeater tower did I find a good place to stop for the night, though it was flat the tower was a noisy so not sure I would stay at another unless it was the only choice.

Today was a great day I got my mug back , talked to many travelers and the wild flowers are in bloom so the air is full of wonderful smells.

Day 8

Saturday July 23, 2011, 49 miles (79 km) - Total so far: 9,326 miles (15,009 km)

Temps have been steadily dropping today it was 37f. road today is in good shape so far some bad patches but for the most part all ride-able. A couple form Perth Stopped to chat, they gave me water and then the wife pulled out a bag full of veg and fruit and told me to take all I could carry, as well as Bread and cracker and 2 cans of Pepsi, super nice people, they are also doing the Great Central Road in a few days.

I stopped for lunch at a quarry, as I was sitting a bird flew by my head so fast I could hear the rush of air pass my head, it looked like a jet fighter maneuvering back and forth as it screamed past me. The quarry had water in it, tall cattails growing out of the remaining water, birds gathering around the edges chirping and jumping around as they drank.

The road got worse after lunch, I was aiming for 50mi today but wasn't sure I could manage it with the road making speed a challenge. Later in the afternoon I got passed up by 4 road trains man they make a lot of dust. I came to a section of heavy tree growth on both sides making the road look like I was passing through a tunnel. GPS ran out of batteries and I could not get the Solar panel I have to keep it working so I had to turn it off, I should of bought more batteries in HC. The Great central road has been weighing on my mind a lot lately and I feel it would be great to do the original route I was thinking of doing I'll have to see how I feel after this ride. I am little early to be in Alice Springs but I want to see Kaori so it is worth being early.

Day 9

Sunday July 24, 2011, 50 miles (80 km) - Total so far: 9,376 miles (15,089 km)

Very cold start this morning 32deg F. I left camp about a half an hour early won't do that again.

Road is hard going with deep washboard. I passed by a bore hole but it had no water in it not that I needed any I just wanted to see if it was running. A Road Train truck driver pulled his rig over to have chat, he was curious about me since he said that he had never seen a Push biker on the Tanami before. Seems to me it might be cool to ride with a Road Train for a spell , yah know something different.

Broke a spoke today. Just as I feared might happen if the wheel caught suddenly after loose sand, it was my fault I was traveling a bit fast and crossed the loose stuff to fast and the wheel tweaked sideways a bit. I stopped to fix it pulling all the bags off the bike getting my tools out and setting about my repairs, several cars past by not one even slowed to see if I was OK, granted I wasn't waiving them down but still I'm a bicycle in the middle of nowhere and how.

The closer I get to Yunedumu the more the terrain has changed, the hills have returned and I even have a few slight grades along the way. I only have 1.5 days before I leave the dirt road behind and the pave starts and takes me all the way into Alice Springs were I'll spend a couple weeks. Not easy to find camping today but managed to get a good spot just before the sun went down. In the distance I could see a lot of smoke bush fires are raging in the Area and I am a little on edge about being caught out in one.

Still thinking about the Great Central Road the closer I get to the Pavement the more I dint want the dirt to end I am feeling more and more like the GCR is in my future

Day 10

Monday July 25, 2011, 62 miles (100 km) - Total so far: 9,438 miles (15,189 km)

32deg F again this morning seems to be the new standard wake up temp. I stayed in bed a bit long and didn't get on the road until 8:30 by then I didn't have to wear my long sleeve jacket it had warmed up a lot well 45deg F.

Road was good until Yundemu. Just like Bililuna the community is a disaster; trash, burned up cars, torn apart houses and total disrepair I was not happy about the state of it but nothing I can do. I stopped into the Police Station and let them know I was on the road that way if there was a search it would only be from Alice to Yundemu. I had planned on stopping by the store but decided I just wanted to get out of town ASAP so I rode on. The road surface turned loose and hard to ride with large stones and loose gravel all about passed a couple putting up a sign they stopped their work to bid me good day. As I was working my way up a small hill a couple of Brumbies came running out of the bushes and crossed the road, the Black as coal mare of the 2 stopped in the road so I stopped. He took a strong stance head held high shoulders and chest out, his black main flowing neatly down his neck. As I watched he nodded a long slow nod without moving his body or changing his posture, as his head came back up he turned it side to side, I just stared in awe. He gave me one last long stare and slowly with purpose walked off the road, as soon as he was in the bush he neighed and galloped off his main and tail drifting back he quickly caught up with the other horse and was gone from sight. I thanked him for allowing me to pass on his land and rode on.

In the distance I could see the road changing to hard packed sand that looked like it had been freshly graded. When I got onto this hopefully smooth road I was disappointed to find that the road was pitted with inverted washboard that was a nightmare to ride, I had to stand on the pedals because my ass was hurting form the bouncing, I even had on 2 pair of shorts to ease the pain which helped but did not cure the problem, only smooth road could cure my buttocks.

I came across 10km of pave a sigh of relief escaping my lips as I rolled onto its baby butt smooth surface. I did 35mi before lunch, when I finally found a good pullout I could see the fire not too far away, I thought I was a good distance away from it until I looked close to the burned are in front of me and noticed a curl of smoke coming up close to me. I walked over and found a large log still burning red hot coals all around. Left lunch a bit early so as not to be burned up, pave was gone and hard packed sand returned. I was about to find a place to camp even though it was early when a I was stopped by a lady in a truck who wanted to know if I was crazy, we talked a while and she told me camels were on the road ahead, so I cycled on hoping to see a wild Camel.

I passed by a broken down windmill that was cool looking I stared at it for a while wondering about its past life, it was now home to about a dozen bird nests, well one man's junk is another animals treasure! The pave returned this time for 20km strange to have all these patches of pave then dirt over and over. I noticed a melon that looked like a small watermelon so I stopped and picked one up and cracked it open inside it was yellow with black seeds smelled like a watermelon and looked like one but was sour to the taste, (I found out later I was right these are the Wild versions of the cultivated watermelon) Not to far from my melon path I spotted my first Camels 2 of them by the side of the road they ran off as I approached but didn't go far, I snapped a couple of pics and let them be.

Long day after the pavement ended the road was almost un-rideable, the grader had come through and graded the washboard off but left a 4in deep sand pit behind, I pushed a lot. I was not finding a good spot to camp as the sun was waning on the horizon, my Campdar was on full blast, finally as the sun was losing its grip over the coming night I found a good spot.

Day 11

Tuesday July 26, 2011, 12 miles (19 km) - Total so far: 9,450 miles (15,209 km)

I slept late today since I knew I had only 20km until the Tilmouth Road House my stop for the day. The road after the last bit of pave is total hell sand so deep it makes the riding really hard I pushed a lot and when on the bike had a hard time keeping the rear wheel from slipping out in the loser stuff, was afraid I might break another spoke, luckily I didn't. I stopped at the end of the Dirt road and said goodbye to the REAL Tanami and hello to the Permanent pavement I will have until Alice Springs.

I arrived at the Tilmouth Road House after a nice smooth 2km of pave. When I entered the man behind the counter said 'I heard you were coming' word travels up and down these roads like the Coconut Wireless back home. Good old word of mouth. I asked about camping and at first was told 20$for a site including a shower. I declined and said I would take the shower for 3$. I went to the bike to get money and when I returned the manager came out and told me 10$, a good deal for a dirty tired cyclist. I thanked him for the deal and went out to set up camp.

After I was set up I came back in to order a Hamburger $9.50 for a burger with the lot and 3$for chips. I had a couple Burgers at Roadhouses and was not expecting much. My burger arrived and I could see be looking at it that I was in for a treat. To sum it up in one word 'excellent' fresh meat, toppings and Bun make a great tasting Burger. If you come up this way stop here and have the Burger it is worth the stop for sure I 100% recommend this place the food and prices are a fair deal.

Day 12

Wednesday July 27, 2011, 74 miles (119 km) - Total so far: 9,524 miles (15,328 km)

I enjoyed my half day off at the Tilmouth RH I will stop here again for sure if I am up this way.

Road is now paved and the riding easy going but the pavement means vehicles are passing at superfast speed and the road is narrow so at times they try to squeeze me off the road. I can see mtns in the distance or what they call mtns here we would call foothills in the US but still a very impressive sight coming from the Flat Tanami desert of the past 2 weeks. I pass a large meadow of golden grass that flows far in the distance to the mtns beyond an impressive sight.

Not a lot happened today just hammered out miles so I could have a half day into Alice Tomorrow. I found a great place to camp down a fence line. The night fell dark no moon to speak of, at midnight a Dingo came barking at my tent so I got out and yelled at it to shut up, it did so and I slept through the night

Day 13: Last day on the Tanami.....Alice Spring today

Thursday July 28, 2011, 40 miles (64 km) - Total so far: 9,564 miles (15,392 km)

I left early hoping to make it to Alice SP By lunch time. The road I am on became a narrow one lane up until the junction with the Stuart Highway. As I approached the junction I couldn't help but feel a bit sad. I had ridden the length of the Tanami over the last 12 days and enjoyed my time so much I was a little bit bummed to know I would be among people and the fast paste life of the city. I make the turn onto the Stuart highway with a nice tailwind to accompany me. Unlike the Tanami I am riding up and down small hills as I make my way south towards A.S. lots of traffic make me nervous and I can't wait to be in A.S. so I can get off the busy road.

I arrive in Alice in just over 4hours or right about lunch time. I made a couple of contacts in Alice so I needed to retrieve my package I sent with Anthony. I found the Hardware store easy enough and made contact with Bernie about my bags, she had them in the office, all the stuff was just as I sent it. Trying to find a Phone to make a call in this city is hard, I went up and down the streets but couldn't find a payphone. I stopped off at the police station to let them know about calling Halls Creek PD they took my info and said they would call ( I received an email days later from HC PD saying they hadn't heard from me , and were wondering if I had made it) make sure if they say they will call that they actually call, I was a little upset since I told HC PD I would make sure it was done, my own fault.

Not finding a phone I headed over to a bike shop I had seen on the way into town to see if I could use there phone as well as check out the local bike seen. The guys at Ultimate ride while a bit standoffish at first turned out to be real nice guys, they let me use the phone and talked story a while. I contacted Kathy the Girl I had met on the Gibb River road. She was enjoying a day off and would come down and pick me up. Kathy arrived about a half hour later we loaded up the truck and zoomed off to her house were I've been staying for the last 2 weeks

The Tanami: Heres what i can tell you

Friday July 29, 2011

Alice Springs: My time in Alice Springs

Saturday July 30, 2011

Kathy has been amazing she welcomed me a stranger, gave me a set of keys and told me to make myself at home; for the last 2 weeks that's what I have done. I spent the first few days gorging myself on foods other than noodles, like Kangaroo, Sausages, Veg I had a plethora of foods to choose from and great grocery stores like Coles to shop at.

Saturday Kathy invited me to a party at a park 100km from town, she was crashing it and I was tagging along to do the same. I met a lot of great people and a few cyclists as well, seemed to be a large contingent of the Alice Springs Cycle Club. One of the guys named Gareth heard I had a Surly Troll and was keen to have a chat; he is looking at getting one so it was nice to give him the low down.

Monday Kathy whisked me away to the Airport to pick up Kaori. she is coming to Alice to spend a week with me. I was a bit nervous on the drive over it has been 9mo since we've seen each other and I wasn't sure how we would be around one another. When I saw her I was taken aback by how beautiful she is, I hadn't forgotten but since we seldom would see each other than on interweb seeing her in person was a reality check. How lucky I am to have such a beautiful and wonderful woman want to spend time with me. Kaori and I spent the first day getting reacquainted with each other and planning on what we would do with the time in Alice.

Too make a long story short:

Kaori and I rented a car from Central Car Rental which included camping gear for her and drove down to Uluru (Ayers Rock) spent a night there then off to Kings Canyon were we did 2 hikes very nice place, then drove back all in the space of 3 days it was a lot of driving for such a short trip. If I had to do it over again I might book a tour something I usually don't do, but considering the distance it would have been nice to have someone else drive while we enjoyed each other's company. On Sunday after what seemed like to short of a time Kaori flew back to New Zealand, I will be visiting her in about 4 months from now.

DO NOT RENT A CAR FROM CENTRAL CAR RENTAL, THEY ARE CROOKS!!!!!!!

Alice Sp to Stuarts Well: Some times you wonder why

Saturday August 13, 2011, 58 miles (93 km) - Total so far: 9,622 miles (15,485 km)

Staurts well to Desert Oaks Rest area: returning to familair ground

Sunday August 14, 2011, 47 miles (76 km) - Total so far: 9,669 miles (15,561 km)

Desert Oaks Rest area to Ebenezer: Interweb that is priced like Gold

Monday August 15, 2011, 54 miles (87 km) - Total so far: 9,723 miles (15,648 km)

Left a little late today, must have been the 3 beers I had with Barry last night, he was a cool character.

Stayed at the Desert oaks camp in the same spot as Kaori and I. Barry and his wife camped in their RV next to me. Just about dusk Barry a grey haired man with a hefty belly and a friendly disposition comes over with a beer in hand. We talked about flying biking stars and the wizbangs ( anyone who arrives late to a campsite , then opens and closes the doors to the rental van 100 times more than needed all while talking loud like the person next to them was actually 30F away, in other words all backpacker van driving tourists and hippy want to-bees) Barry is an engineer, pilot, designer, machinist, motorcycle mechanic and all around restorer of old aircraft and anything that needs to be put back to right we had a great conversation that lasted long into the night, we even got into a debate about the Southern Cross, I pointed it out and Barry said I was wrong it was the Fake one, so I got out the Star disc Kaori got me and proved to an OZZY that I knew more about his night sky than he did , he was humbled by this fact, and a little embarrassed that; he living all his life in OZ was wrong and a Yank was right. Every time a beer was low another round was called for until I finally had to say goodnight.

My plan today is to make it to Erdulunda road house and see if I can get ahold of Dirt Works to see if they will ship out some spokes to Yulara a few days ahead of me so I can replace the ones that break as they happen.

The low hills are replaced by bluffs far off in the distance and open grassy plains stretch out before me with only a few bushes along the road side. Out of one of the stands of bushes comes two kangaroos hoping along the right side of me as I am pedaling along they are fast and by the time I get me camera out they are way ahead of me and hidden behind a bush. Just as they come out and start hopping away I am able to get some good video and a couple of pics, I am so stoked to see some big reds for the first time.

Made it to Erulunda by noon got on the net but could not get any real help from Dirt works this time they gave me the number of couple of bike shops in Alice one of which didn't answer the phone and the other could of cared less if I needed anything at all, so I decided to risk the GCR with 3 extra spokes. Water at Erlunda is not free and the tap outside is Bore water and supposedly not drinkable at all so as on of the cute little Asian girls if they wouldn't mind getting you some water from the kitchen this worked for me and I got 10L for free, if you don't and you need water it is served in Bottles and cost 4$for 2 litters you do the math. The road takes a slight up as I make the turn on the lasserter highway headed to Yulara with the wind at my back I am making good time since I was about 30km from Erdulanda when I started my plan is to camp close to but not at the Ebenezer road house I make the road house limit around 4pm and decide that I have gone far enough I make camp 2km before the roadhouse in the Bush and settle in for a nice cool night, the moon is high and full so the place is lit up like crazy but I am far enough off the road I am sure no one can see me

Ebenezer to Ebenezer

Tuesday August 16, 2011, 51 miles (82 km) - Total so far: 9,774 miles (15,730 km)

The wind is up before I am and I have a feeling it's going to be a tough day even before I get out of bed mainly due to the fact that my tail wind is now a head wind. I pack and get on the road before the sun is even up. About a km down the road a Brumby is grazing in a field when it sees me the mare start to snort and kick the ground, I stop and stare at him, I slop snort and kick the ground, in return he does the same pacing back and forth obviously not happy that I am stopped by his field we go back and forth for about 10min until the sun starts to peak above the horizon then for a minute we forget each other as we both turn to face the coming day.

I watch as a ball of fire creeps above the horizon the cold deepening around me just before it makes the break , red in it accent due to all the smoke in the air , I look over at the Mare he is also staring at the suns rising , he is a brilliant copper color with a long flowing mane that the wind is just wisping about, I think what a great picture that would be and move a bit beyond the horse to get a good shot , not happy with my position on the road I move to the fence the mare about 50 yards down form me as the massive ball of the sun clears the horizon it is magic to see this horse in the sunlight such an amazing animal.

Water at the Ebenezer road house is free and good coming from a well so I fill up the bottles and head out. The road climbs and dips as I move along the wind picking up to a stiff head wind by now making the going slow and tedious. I have been down this road before so I am not totally interested in the scenery and am just doing miles not taking too much in at this point by the time I reach the 30mi mark and a rest area the wind is at a gail and I am being knocked around the road making the ridding dangerous with the passing cars so I stop to consider my options , since I have been down this road I can take a ride, or I can wait here until it dies down which is what I decide to do.

While I am there a caravan pulls up and the guy gets out to have a yarn, I tell him about my trip and the wind being a problem at the moment , he says it always blows this direction I am shocked to hear this as I thought I had looked at and read the wind rose right when I was in Alice, the wind should be at my back all the way down the GCR, now I am not sure did I make a mistake , I'll have to get Interweb and make sure. The guy leaves without saying goodbye probably in an attempt to NOT give me a ride in his empty Truck oh well. I wait for another hour then decide that turning back is closer than and easier than going forward so I head back to the Ebenezer RH a trip that took me 3 hours and 15min to make out took me 1 hour and 25min to get back at time the wind was pushing me along at over 23mph.

Back at the RH the wind is in a gail dust and dust devils are all over the place trying to pitch the tent is next to impossible if it weren't for the fence I am up against I am not sure the tent would of went up at all. Parked in the RV park is an enormous Mobile Home BUS like the ones Americans drive not a common thing here in OZ. the guy driving it come over for a chat and I tell him I am heading back to Erdulunda to check the web and make sure the wind is not going to be a head wind the whole time and that the wind today is just a fluke since now I am doubting myself I need to know, I am not sure I what to cycle another 1200km on dirt into a headwind.

The sun is now obscured by the dust storm that is raging around us as we talk and as night falls the wind does not die it only gets worse. Johno says he will give me a ride back to Erdulunda in the am but as for tonight we just buckle down and hope for the best, by 1am the storm dies and in the morning it is clear skies and no wind

Back and forth I go: Ebenzer to Erdulunda to Ebenezer to Curtain Springs....No ridden miles

Wednesday August 17, 2011

Curtain Springs to Rest area: 25km from Yulara

Thursday August 18, 2011, 33 miles (53 km) - Total so far: 9,807 miles (15,783 km)

Rest area to Olgas: A Short stop in Yulara

Friday August 19, 2011, 36 miles (58 km) - Total so far: 9,843 miles (15,841 km)

I left early so I could make it to Yulara do laundry take a shower register with the PD and be out of town with enough time to make ti to the Olgas by sundown. While I was doing laundry a petite lady comes over and asks me about my trip she is blonde mid-forties semi attractive until she opens her mouth about spirit guides telling her about a culture shift back to trade and no more greed for money, I listen with disbelief because this same woman is wearing a cross around her neck, very strange.

I leave Yulara after 2pm and make my way to the NP enterence I have been expecting much fuss about paying to get through but not a bit just a couple of questions and I am on my way. I have been here before so I just pound out Km to get to the Olgas , I do stop for the Ayers rock bike photo a must have if you're here and continue on . by 4pm I am camped outside the park next to the Olgas a peaceful night's sleep awaits and a bit of a wind storm as well, luckily its seems to be headed my way.

Start of the Docker river road (GCR): Olgas to a Pullout

Sunday August 21, 2011, 53 miles (85 km) - Total so far: 9,896 miles (15,926 km)

Sundown at the Olgas was great I got a free show and didn't have to pay the 25$per person fee since I was just outside the park entrance.

Today is the first day on The GCR. The road is sandy to start and I am a bit worried that it could be like this te whole way I have been trying to not let anyone give me too much advice on the road since it is usually wrong. Rolling hills to start, lots of tall grass and desert oaks all around giving the area a more hospitable appeal than the Tanami. The road conditions start to improve and soon I am flying up and down small rises pushed by a superb tailwind until I hit a sand pit about 28mi in then I am off and pushing until I find that sweet spot on the side of the road were I can just barley keep it going at times but it beats pushing for sure.

I am Stopped by a nice couple from victoria: Peter and Louise. We have a yarn they just came off the GCR and are headed home, a cup of Joe and a few Biscuits later and we are joined by another caravan so the party grows to 6 as we discuss roads and touring, Peter reminds me of Don Knots for some reason without the googly eyes of course he is an animated chap who used to shear sheep; kind of a lost art in Australia these days.

I stop for lunch under a nice shade tree all around are the beginnings of spring, a few wild flowers are popping up here and there I hope to see more along the way. The rumble of a road train can even be heard through my headphone, I turn my head and in the distance is a massive truck pulling 2-3 trailers the dust is immense so I stop as I always do to put on a face mask and wait for it to pass, the only trouble is this one doesn't pass it slows down and stops right next to me. Out of the cab comes a Truckee 6 ft plus beer belly short jean shorts and rugged looking boots the perfect picture of an Auzzie Truckee. He calls himself Holly, says he saw the tracks in the sand and at first thought I was a black fella dragging a stick then after seeing my footprints were I pushed the bike realized I must be a Push biker, having never seen one on this road he had to stop and see if I was mentally sound. Holly asks if I'm alright got enough spares and the like, I assure him I am fine but take him up on a water fill-up, can't have enough out here. We have a chat he has been truckin for 35 years and doing this run for about 5 says he'll be in Laverton in a day or so, it will take me 12 I am thinking, he says he'll be in Laverton a fortnight so we might see each other again.

The sand continues for a long time but the luck of the Irish is upon me and I can ride on the side or on the little edge if I like both are had pack so even though I am surrounded by a sandy road the miles are flying by. The downside to the tailwind is I have lost the cooling effect I had on the Tanami pushing into a head wind so I am hotter than I would like even though for now the tempos are in the low 80's, sweat beads and rolls down my back making the dust turn to red streaks of itchiness, I stop every so often and turn around just to cool off and evap some of the sweat.

Many vehicles stop to offer encouragement or water today a good feeling as I wasn't sure the amount of traffic I could expect per day on the GCR. Low hills and grassy plains continue as the road turns to hard pack making the cranks turn and the tyres hum as I speed along towards tonight's unknown camp in the vast openness that is The Australian Outback. I am only a day away from Docker river and should make camp there tomorrow if the road stays the same. Holly and the others said it gets even better after the WA border about 7km past Docker river, I have heard all this before and so I am not going to believe until I see it.

Camped 84.4km from the start of the GCR a pullout on the left side of the road, seems OK ill see if I get bothered or not I like to be hidden a bit more but light was fading so I stayed here

Rest Area to Docker River CG: Not the best CG on the GCR

Monday August 22, 2011, 64 miles (103 km) - Total so far: 9,960 miles (16,029 km)

August 21st 2011 Sunday 6:13:23 63.39mi 180up 155dwn

Getting colder today I awoke to 36deg nice for sleeping. No problems last night one car drove by at mach 10 at midnight and then all was silence except the restless creatures of the night which didn't bother me at all.

The road just keeps getting better and better , some places were so good I was doing 16.8mph for long stretches at a time a bit of sand now and then but nothing to write about. Low hills to climb and wildflowers make riding a real treat breaks up the flatnerss a bit after 3:15 I had 35mi done so I stopped at the Rest area for Lasseters cave you can learn about him here:

http://www.kempseycaravan.com.au/The%20Story%20of%20Lasseter%27s%20Reef.htm I didn't go to the cave as it is not were he died just were the journal was found and apparently it is all torn up form gold diggers trying in vain to find a supposed REEF of solid gold that Lasseter Swore he had found then lost. 10mi from Docker river and the road turns to terrible sand, the grader had just been through and left 4in of soft stuff on top of the now flattened washboards so I had lot of pushing and struggle to get to a place I could ride the bike. A Dr. in a truck stopped and handed me an ice cold Gatorade just what the Dr. ordered I told him. The road improved at the bend to Docker river and for about 3km I had a good riding surface well not good but better then I passed the Docker river community and forgetting that it was Sunday I went in looking for water, just another bombed out shit hole like the others I have visited necessitating my quick turn around and skedaddle. Just past the turn the road turns to terrible corrugation the like of which I have never ridden and hope to never ride again the sand is so deep that the hill going DOWN to the camp ground I had to push the bike just to go Down it was unrideable.

The Docker river campground is a little close to the community for my taste but seems ok with tall desert oaks but NO water or working Toilets either. While there one of the Grader driver came over and had to see the push biker for himself as he could not believe it when Holly told him I was out there His name is Carl Boede and he grades roads so that people as foolish as I can travel on them

Giles to Bush camp

Tuesday August 23, 2011, 80 miles (129 km) - Total so far: 10,040 miles (16,158 km)

August 23rd Tuesday 6:42:25 80.12mi up 128 dwn 230

There is nothing like turning the TV up real loud so you can stand outside and smoke while listening at a deafening volume a pointless program; that is what a trucker did at 930pm last night, I got up and asked if he would turn it down and he just waved me aside and said 'you do it' . Though the camp area is nice and clean there are 2 problems dingoes 2 of them and they are at it all night trying to get into garbage cans and steel shoes, I had to chase them off , could of killed them both the ruckus was terrible. It would serve them right if they were taken out and buried, I am not trying to be mean or cruel but they are not Dingoes anymore just Scavengers of human waste and have NO idea of what they used to be. Even the owners wish them gone bu they are protected and No harm can come to them.

Left a little late today 7:45 but I needed more rest due to my 2 friends. The road leaving and coming into Giles is terrible since it is 1.5km off the main road; washboard and sand make it the worst part so far I think. Back on the main GCR the road is not much better for about 10km I bounce of struggle through sand until I finally hit pay dirt and the hard pack returns. My wind is not with me this am but as the day moves forward and so do I it predictably returns with gusto (pun).

All the hills are gone; the road only rises and falls in gentle almost unnoticed amounts. A truck stopped me as I was standing in the middle of he road looking out at the straight line in front of me that swept up at the far end, funny how a hill looks like a hill at this distance but when you get on it seems almost flat. The couple Alan and his wife did some of the same route I have done and are headed home, they have a copy of the 'Outback way' book it points out all the cool things to see on the trail, Alan points out a Water hole about 5 clicks away. We meet up at the water hole a bit later it is surrounded by birdlife finches Buggies and the like all swooping down to take a drink. I stay at the water hole for a a couple hours to eat lunch and enjoy the free nature show.

While I am relaxing in the shade of a bush a truck speeds by then stops backs up and parks next to the waterhole I am at. A couple get out and head over to me the lady is an aboriginal and the man a white guy, they ask what I am doing and if I have seen 3 guys on quads go by I say NO!, then they tell me that the 4 guys have ridden around the world on the Quads and he needs to find them, that it is such a cool thing and he wants to say he met them. I am listening a bit dumbfounded. How hard ridding an 'outdoor Car' can be, I didn't tell him but I am pedaling around the world now that's damn hard! A quad is easy 4 wheels, a seat and a gas motor turn throttle go fast, they even have a support vehicle. Come on were the adventure in that. OK they did do a bunch of the Sahara Desert now that's cool but GCR, Tanami come on really is that worthy of speeding down the road to catch??

I tried to make it to the Campground I was told about but after 130km I was beat so I camped by the side of the road. All in all a great day.

Bush camp to Warburton

Wednesday August 24, 2011, 69 miles (111 km) - Total so far: 10,109 miles (16,269 km)

August 24th Wednesday 2011 5:55:07 69.01mi up 246 dwn 263

About 1km form were I camped is a sign saying 5km to the camp ground, I was so tired I wouldn't of made it anyway so no big deal. I did stop by to see it and as I was coming in the Quads were coming out, they didn't ask me anything and I didn't ask them , I think it's better that way. The campground is crap, no shade, garbage and supposed Aboriginal artwork on the boards, looks like graffiti to me.

I see low hills in the distance a constant reminder that the area is so diverse and full of surprises. The road continues its trend of goodness but my wind seems to be slowly turning against me, in the am it is a very strong tail but as noon approaches it moves to a side head not all bad but man I sure do like the tailwind. I soon arrive at the low hills I could see and as I am decending down one I see a guy on a motorbike he stops to have a chat his name is Dennis and hes on his way to a Moto rally over by Alice I think. The bike is a classic BMW not onbe of the super fancy ones I see guys on he is having a hard time in the sandy sections but says it is a great way to go, though he admits I am doing it much harder for sure. He invites me to his place in Bridgetown I might have to take him up on that offer it is on my route.

Road is in great shape until just before I get to Warburton then it turn to the feared White Road. The wind changes direction and I struggle up and down the last few little hills before I make the RH.

I was being a bit proactive when I was in Alice Springs and sent Half of my food rations to Warburton so that I could save weight plus it only cost me 5.50$for 8kg a great deal. Too bad the Charter company that takes the mail to Warburton didn't take my box, 2 weeks ago I sent it and it is still in Alice. The nice lady who runs the RH Cindy called Alice and found it still waiting to be taken. They forwarded it to Laverton for me at no charge but that did me and my pocket book NO good here, I had to buy food and it cost me dearly.

If you ask real nice you can get 5$camping if you are a cyclist just ask Cindy.

Warburton to Bush camp

Friday August 26, 2011, 57 miles (92 km) - Total so far: 10,166 miles (16,361 km)

August 26th Friday 2011 7:07:29 56.8mi up 233 dwn 287

Since I am in the WA I set my clock back 1.5 hours, I am up with the sun literally this morning to get a good start. I was told the road was in bad shape form here to The next road house so I have decide to start at sun up so I can make the most of the day.

The road leading out of Warburton is total and utter crap loose sand and bad bad washboards for about 5km then I have to cross the Warburton River which is running for very late after the wet, the first time in 30years .I skate around it and take a cool photo on the other side. I am in for a real struggle the road is bad in 4hours I do only 30mi I was so wish it was like before, well you take it as it comes good bad or ugly all three in this case.

I was about 10mi form the Warburton RH when I realized I left me US to OZ adapter for my electronics behind, if the road had been good and the wind a tail I would not have hesitated to return and get it but that ten miles took over 1.5 hours and I was not going back on the road, to difficult, well a 13$lesson learned.

The hills have returned and so have the evil wind and corrugations making the going a bit tougher than I would like. With all the wild flowers in bloom the sights sounds and smells are breathtaking sometimes literally; the air can be so saturated with pollen that it makes you gasp and then like a thirsty camel drink it all in, in long slow gulps to bad you can't smell what I'm smelling it is heaven and makes even the shit road bearable.

The days seem to be getting warmer which seems a bit backwards to me since i am headed south and Down under South me cool weather not like the North were it can be so friggin hot. I was taking a break under a tree writing this journal when a Monarch colored butterfly came by me it just fluttered around my space for a few minutes it was like a piece of wrapping paper blowing in the wind. I was hoping it would land on me so I could get a photo but it just kept floating around me like it was checking me out. Back on the road a truckee stopped to tell me that I was a long way from home, nothing else just that then he left, I was wondering where I was?

Lots of bad road today though the bright side being that all of it was rideable and I dint have to push

Bush camp to Bush camp: Lots of Bad road

Saturday August 27, 2011, 59 miles (95 km) - Total so far: 10,225 miles (16,456 km)

August 27th Saturday 2011 7:01:21 58.9 Up 231 dwn 260

My camp spot last night was perfect no noise no dingoes and no vehicle bothering me not that there are many anyway on this isolated road.

I awoke before the sun figuring on a very long and hard day ahead. The road is still bad and I am forced to ride on the extreme shoulder just so I can ride at all, tailwind has returned but is little help with the road conditions. I find an old abandoned car that still has 2 windows left in it so I take out my frustrations on them the cars is one of over 150 that the Aboriginals just dump on the road, if anything goes wrong they elave it right there on the road no one will pick it up and the when the grader comes by they push it off the road and into the desert, then the Abo will come along and smash it take a few things or burn it. It is very sad. But the windows did make me feel better.

I stopped by a rest area to get water of a stopped caravan I not only got water but a nice ham sandwich and invite to stay with the couple at there home in Southern WA people are sure nice in OZ. the road just keeps going downhill and I don't mean literally the sand is back with a vengeance and I am forced to dismount and pouch for long stretches , it seems just as it gets better it goes back the other way. About half way through one of these bad stretches I meet another Moto guy he is riding a KLR 650 the same bike I had back home. He name is Michael and he is taking the back ways ton Melbourne to visit his son who is going to medical school. A volunteer fireman we talk shop for a bit soon it is 430 and since I am too tired to continue on I decide to make camp there, Mike is done as well so for the first time on my dirt adventures I have a camp mate. I learn that Mike does the Aircon for the transit Authority in Perth and owns not just the KLR but 96 more bikes, some vintage and some new like the BMW 1200GS Adventure My dream bike!!! Being a fireman he builds a huge fire and we talk until late or in my time 830pm. I enjoyed his company, it's different sharing this if even for a moment.

Bush camp to Road House

Sunday August 28, 2011, 38 miles (61 km) - Total so far: 10,263 miles (16,517 km)

August 28th Sunday 2011 3:48:29 37.5mi Up 176 dwn 184

I left this morning with expectations on the RH being a nice place to stay. I finally was able to take pic of some cool lizards. One stood still in the road and then made a home of my bike wheel, I assume he knew a quality Schwalbe tyre when he saw it and just wanted to get a close look. The other was on the side of the road at a rest stop tree info area; he just hung out while I got close with the camera neat animals.

Short day today with not great road and a strong headwind, I arrived at the roadhouse about 12pm. I asked about camping and am told 15$for an Unpowered site I ask about a discount and am told 15$is the special deal, I tell them about Giles and Warburton both giving me 5$camping because I am on a push bike, the guy seems keen but the lady who I will refrain from describing , gives me the 3rd degree, Are you with a company? Are with a charity, are you a special person? In the end I say not to all the questions because Wheels 4 Life the charity I am with does not do things in OZ. I tell her to let me camp for 5$just because she can and it would be a huge help to my budget. In the end the guy talks her into it and I am allowed to camp with 1 shower for 5$. Needing supplies for the last 3 days I look around the store, There is not much I should of bought more in WB not only that but a ot of the items are expired I found cans of tuna that expired almost 2 years ago, the lady trying to tell me that the EX 2-15-2010 is a Product code not and Exp code, she gave me my money back but what a shit. Not a good place to stay in fact I was the only one who did.

Tomorrow I start the 3day epic finally to Laverton man I hope the it is smooth sailing.

RH to Bush camp

Monday August 29, 2011, 69 miles (111 km) - Total so far: 10,332 miles (16,628 km)

August 29th Monday 2011 6:17:27 68.43mi Up 199 dwn 211 I went back into the RH to get my 10$key deposit, the bitchy woman takes the key hands me the money and doesn't even say thanks for staying with us or goodbye. I was going to buy a couple sugar cookies for the road but decided to save my money and not spend it on her place.

The road is great to start and I have a nice tailwind pushing me along as I curve around and flow up and down little hills it switches to a side, head and then back to a tail, the terrain is dotted with wildflowers and I feel it is all for me, well not for me but I am sure happy to be seeing it, I find a rhythm and the miles seem to be flying by. A truck approaches me and fella hollers out the window 'G-day mate' I stop and we have a quick chat he is watching a road works area ahead and invites me into have a coffee, 20minutes later I am being fed a brekky as well, nice guy his name is Harry. He is from Laverton a retiree but talked into watching the site for 10 days a month while the crews are on leave. He is bored to death and we both have a good time talking about life and the general state of things. Harry used to be a prospector up until the mines bought up all the good land so now he is just retired and living day to day, but says he is moving to the S part of the WA in a few months sold his house and is going to live in a retiree community. I hung out for about 45min then hit the road, in hindsight I should have stayed longer but that the beauty of hindsight.

The road and wind continue to be in my favor in fact at 2:29 I had done 99.9km, I kid you not at exactly 2:30 the km rolled to 100 in sync, I was stoked and made a complete fool of myself shouting and carrying on, of course it is the little things that make you happy sometimes, and since I was alone no one could see me act so strange about something so little. I made camp 10km later only 110km for the day and it was 3:15 I just didn't want to overdo it.

I also saw my first snake not sure what type it is and I wasn't going to follow it into the bushes to find out probably venomous as most are her in OZ, I did get a video of it maybe I can post it

Black flies have been a terrible bother and at times driven me mad. If I stop to take a picture they are in my face , if I stop to eat they are all over me and my food, I can't get away from them even if I pass a nice smelly dead roo they still hang about me, such a pest. Sometimes you think they are gone but if you look back you can see dozens in your slip stream of hanging on the bags of the bike, I learned a trick for dealing with them on the road ill share latter, but it doesn't work on the dirt.

Camp to Camp: rain is in the forcast

Tuesday August 30, 2011, 65 miles (105 km) - Total so far: 10,397 miles (16,733 km)

August 30th Tuesday 2011 6:57:03 64.37mi Up 213 Dwn 227

Lots of washboard to start and it really never improves, a tailwind being my only comfort but of little use on the bad road.

Looking down the long straight road I see a Cyclist coming my way or I think it is, then as the person gets closer I see it is a Road worker pushing a Cart, as we come together I realize it is a Hiker not a Road worker and he is indeed pushing a cart. His name is Conrad and he is Walking from Perth to upper Queensland pushing a 150kg Modified 4 wheel Wheelbarrow. He is walking to raise awareness about Teenage Suicide his slogan for the walk is 'Just Talk ..Walk Australia' I thought I was doing a tough thing he is doing it the real hard way. He gets on the road at 7am and finish his day around 10pm trying to cover 60km a day, that's TOUGH! We talk for about 20min I take a video I will try and upload and give you details on his site. He tells me I have 25km before the road gets to a 10km sandy patch then it gets better, it is a 'homerun' the rest of the way he says, stoked by the info I say goodbye and he walks off and I ride away.

For the first time I see hundreds of Buggee's in the tress the noise is so intense I can hear them through my headset, I stop and try to get a photo of a flock but they are too fast and all I get are green blurs. I do get a couple sitting though neat looking bird. The flowers around the area and the population of birds would make you believe you are not in the largest desert in OZ. As I was riding I noticed something on the road ahead of me I stopped and got out my larger camera with the 800mm zoom and took a look at first I thought OH my it's a giant wild Monkey or a Primitive man, because of the way it was swinging its front legs around then as it stood up I realize to my delight it was a Big Red roo on the road today 2 of them hopped across and into the trees, I did get a pic of a face which was cool. I came to another female roo eating on the side of the road she was just nibbling away , every once in a while she would push a joey back in the pouch , was amazing to see.

The desert opens up to plains and low dark clouds start to take shape on the horizon, I can only think rain and hope for the best. I am slowly closing in on them or they on me when I get about 15km form Cosmo the last Community on the GCR I make camp. The wind picks up and the sky turns and black boiling color

Bush camp to Laverton: The last day on the GCR....and by far the most trying for many reasons

Wednesday August 31, 2011, 65 miles (105 km) - Total so far: 10,462 miles (16,837 km)

August 31st Wednesday 2011 64.37mi up 213 dwn 227

I awoke to the sound of rain falling on the tent. I poked my head out to see what it looked like and the sky was still black but a clear patch gave me hope that I would not get soaked. With the Dark clouds stretching out around me I got out of the tent and made breakfast, as the food was cooling I packed everything up so I couls make a quick escape to the road. Luckily the rain never started again and I ate in the cool dryness.

Saw some brumbies on the road they trotted off as I approached. The mare of the bunch giving me the what for as I stood and watched them, they never seem to run off just get back a safe distance, I too never get closer than my bike they are a wild animal and dangerous, such a magnificent animal.

BE VERY CAREFULL WHAT YOU ASK FOR.

I was just thinking I would like to see some more Big red roos before I get of the GCR, no sooner than I had uttered the words than I saw a dead roo on the side of the road as I approach I notice to my Horror that there is a Live joey in the Middle of the road. He is making a small grunting noise and I can see he is bleeding and has been trying to crawl for a long time since a trail of blood leads away form the Mother. His Spine is broken because he cant move his hind legs he just scraps at the ground with his fronts, I stop and instantly am overwhelmed with emotion I cant help but cry, I know I am going to have to end it's suffering and it is killing me. I set down next to the little guy right in the middle of the road and stroke its little head and ears this calms it down a bit. I sit for about 20min hoping someone else will come along and spare me the terrible thing I will have to do, no one does. I explain to the Joey what I am going to do and ask for it to forgive me 5 min later I place it with its Mother it is now at peace. I sit down in the road and sob the hardest I have ever cried in my life, what a terrible thing to have to do.

I can't even ride, I have to walk as I leave the scene, it takes me a long time to get on the bike and not burst into tears. I wanted to see animals and experience nature and so I have I just never thought I would see something like this, that's life Out bush sometimes it is just not fair.

A strong headwind makes the riding difficult combined with the road that has never gotten better as Conrad said it would. I am down to little in the way of food stuffs and have 3 muesli bars for lunch and a couple of crackers, I didn't count on the headwind though I will make it to Laverton it would be a close call if I had to stay another night.

The last 15km into Laverton is the smooth 'home run' I was hoping for and as I ride out the last 12km I see a line of road trains coming my way in the back of my mind I think back to day 1 and wonder if I will see Holly on the road, as the trucks pass a familiar one come in view slowing down I can see the driver, it's Holly. He jumps out and shakes my hand congratulating me on the crossing, says he wondered if I was still on the road and so I am. We talk for a short bit and he trucks away.

I roll onto the Pavement just in the nick of time my legs, ass, and arms are in the early to mid-stages of a mutiny that I must crush with a giant Hamburger, so I head to the Deli in town and order one up. It feels great to be on the Pave again fast rolling and smooth. I rollover to the post office to see about my package and by luck it is there , so now I will have plenty of food for the trip to Kalgoolrie. While I am there the post lady asks me if I wouldn't mind be interviewed for the local paper, 5 min later a reporter comes over snaps a photo and asks a few questions.

The caravan park in town is 20$a night or 4$for the shower since I can camp anywhere I take the shower and get out of town just as the sun is setting.

And so ends my 10 day ride across the GCR.

Laverton to road side camp

Thursday September 1, 2011, 68 miles (109 km) - Total so far: 10,530 miles (16,947 km)

With the completion of the GCR I have done what no other cycle tourist has done; I can now say that I am the first to ride the Gibb River Road, The Bungle Bungle, The Tanami Track and the Great Central Road all in 1 tour and to top it off all on a fully rigid bike, it is my one piece of bike stuff I had not planned on but worked out to be this way, with the invention of the 'front end stabilizer for loaded touring bikes' I have 2 cool things to add to my CV.

Sept 1st Thursday 2011 5:56:21 67.83mi

I return to the rv park to get water before heading out, stop by the gas station to refill my fuel bottle and leave the GCR in my wake.

Even though it has only been ten days since I was last riding on the pave it feels so different like a smooth rollercoaster ride, my body is tired from the last 2 weeks and I can feel the fatigue in my legs as I pedal I really need a few days off.

Even though I haven't left the Victoria desert yet it all seems so different and less isolated; wildflowers line great stretches of the road like a pink carpet that was laid down for beautification purposes it's working. Small tree are everywhere and for the first time I am fenced out to the road by barbed wire on both sides, oh now I know what the difference it's Civilization! I stop at a rest side area next to a lake to have a break, the black flies are gathering and I am becoming annoyed at their persistence. Checking the rear tyre in notice it is low flat #2 has just happened. I take out the tube find the small pin hole and carefully check the tyre for the offending poker but nothing is to be found. If you are at all familiar with Schwalbe tyres, then you know as I do; they are a pain in the ASS to get seated properly! Knowing this I soap up the rim and lay the tyre on the side so no pressure is being forced on the bead and I air it up, all but 2 spots seat, so I let out the pressure and air it up again now only one spot, confident I can tug it into seating I place the tyre in my lap and start to twist it, suddenly there's a POP it is not the Tyre seating but a Broken Spoke, Now I am pissed not only does the tyre not seat, I'm being hounded by dozens of annoying black flies, and now I have to Unseat the tyre take it off the rim and do it all over again after I fix a broken Spoke .F#@*. Flat fixed and a dozen flies slaughtered in the name of sanity and hygiene I get my ass back on the road.

Road is nice and flat with a light wind making the rest of the day a cruise with 68mi for the day done I stop at 3pm give my legs a break

Flower camp to past Storm Camp

Friday September 2, 2011, 51 miles (82 km) - Total so far: 10,581 miles (17,029 km)

Sept 2nd Friday 2011 4:46:20 50.88mi

Leaving camp today I look back at the wildflower with its snow white pedals, as soft as silk, delicate as china, it sits singular against a sun baked red earth a little island of joy in the bleakness around it. Looking at this little flower I am secretly pleased that I alone shared its time.

The wind is up early today and it is not in my favor a strong easterly is blowing, I can feel it's going to be a long day. It really doesn't matter if the wind is for you or against you when you want to be somewhere it seems that the days will be longer than you'd like or at least to me they do, I would like to be in Kalgoorlie taking a well-deserved break from cycling. I struggle to turn the pedals over the wind playing a factor for sure but also I am fatigued my body aches, from my shoulders on down I am feeling parts I haven't felt in a while, I guess 4 really tough dirt tracks on a fully rigid bike will do that to you, that and the high miles I put on everyday over the GCR, I feel tired at the end of the day and am still tired when I awake I am running on empty. I am only 20km from Leonora but it will take me and hour and a half to make the distance the wind increasing its assault against me as I get closer to town. Once I do make it I find that even though most of the Businesses are closed or gone for good it is I a cute little town and even has a pretty well stoked grocer. I buy supplies mainly much need lip balm, before I leave town I stop by the shell station to fill up on water. Looking at the map and wind direction I am now sure I should have a tail or a side wind when I leave since I am now going to turn south and leave my westward heading. Sure enough the wind cuts across me and slightly behind suddenly I feel more energetic, the km's flying by.

Being on the pavement is so different than the dirt the tyres singing out as I zip along pushed by my new found tailwind. The noise of the bags bouncing against the racks is now just a squeak compared to the bouncing on dirt, everything feels smoother. At times I feel I am racing along at others especially when the road turns west again and the wind batters me I feel more like the tortoise I am than the hare I would like to be at this moment, most of the time the tortoise is where I like to be.

Small rises and long straight's make up the majority of the days terrain. Stopping for lunch I notice that my nice puffy white clouds are a sinister looking gray a curtain of ash colored sky dropping all the way to the horizon that can only mean rain. I continue on keeping an eye on the storm as I move, it looks as if it is moving away from me and to the east a bit. I stop at 2pm at a rest stop to evaluate the storm looking to the south it is all black raining hard the dark tail of the dragon stretching far west and slightly behind me. I decide that stopping here is probably a good idea at least I can get the tent up in the dry and hunker down if need be.

I pitch my tent away from the road back amongst the trees thinking I will have a small wind break, it doesn't help much the wind is now howling and the tent is creaking against the guy wires. I stay out of the tent and keep an eye on the tail of the storm and now see it will pass right over me, soon the first sprinkles of cold rain are stinging my face and arms the temps have dropped to the low 50's, the air has the smell of ozone to it.

With the first part of the storm above me the rain trickles down , I retreat to the safety of my tent and wait for the onslaught. A few drops of rain and then the wind stops. I step outside and survey my surrounding deciding I am probably not in a good spot if it rains hard I move my camp to the shelter that is covering the picnic table next to the road at least here it is gravel and not dirt so if it does rain hard I won't get bogged in the mud. No sooner do I get set up then the skies open up and the wind resumes its gale-force assault. Heavy rain falls for about an hour puddles forming instantly under my tent and around the campground but just as suddenly as it started it stops the rain is gone and so is the wind. Stepping out I see a lull in the storm gray above and clear behind it with another dark grey mass moving slowly towards me.

Another person is camped close to where I am. I walk over and introduce myself, his name is Cole. Cole tells me that the worst is over should be no wind now and little more rain, I look at the grey turbulent looking clouds in the distance and wonder if he is not seeing the same thing I am, 30min later I am once again in my tent as the rain pours all around me, thank goodness for waterproof tent fly's. Emerging after yet another onslaught the sun is starting to set a break in the clouds sheds a beautiful yellow-orange glow on the rain falling south of me, an amazing sight to see.

Cole has built a raging fire to stave of the cold and wet so I walk over and enjoy the warmth and the quiet that is now around us. Cole is now sure looking to the west that its 'the dead finish' the storm is passed he says, sure enough I look west and see light beyond the gloom though I have an eerie feeling it's not over yet. Cole and I chat for about an hour as a grey mist gathers to the north of us. Looking up I comment that it seems to be gathering its self together for another go but Cole is sure it's done for. Cole leaves to go get more firewood, as I stand next to the fire the rain starts to come down again no wind this time just heavy rain so I retreat to the safety and dryness of my tent. An hour later the rain has stopped, I am once again warming myself next to the fire. Cole is more determined than ever that its now finally over and looking about it seems to be I say goodnight, head back to the tent to eat my dinner and turn in.

A flash of light awakens me from a dead sleep followed by the low rumble of thunder. The wind picks up as the lightning gets closer and the thunder shakes the awning I am under. The wind gust so hard it rips out a fly stake and I have to lean out of the mesh to hold it back from the tent body, the rain is pounding down the heaviest drops I have ever seen water puddles all over and runs under my tent like a river. The gust of wind are blowing rain up and into the tent as I try to hold the thing from collapsing a short lull in wind allows me to hammer the stake back down. I then have to put on my rain gear and get out of the tent into the storm to make sure all the others are pounded down as far as possible. I pass the next two hours hoping beyond hope that the tent doesn't collapse from the strain or a bolt of lightning doesn't hit the Steel awning I have placed myself under. The storm eventually passes and calmness settles over. Except for the occasional road train that rumbles past nothing else occurs during the night.

I awake to clear skies and a warm sun, my tent and I are still intact neither having been ripped up or electrified. I step out to survey the damage, huge puddles of water are everywhere broken braches litter the parking lot and garbage from the bens is strewn about the place. With the birds chirping their hellos and the crisp morning looking like the start of a great day I make coffee and welcome it in

Storm camp to Mine

Saturday September 3, 2011, 51 miles (82 km) - Total so far: 10,632 miles (17,111 km)

Sept 3rd Saturday 2011 5:29:38 50.76mi

Cole stops to say goodbye as I am packing up, the usual questions are now answered weight of bike and gear , how much water etc! Cole is a nice guy, a gold prospector by trade and obviously not a weather man, I tell him good luck and I hope his gold search pans out Ha ha ha.

With the wind at my back I leave the scene of last nights excitement and head on towards Menzies, unfortunately the wind will switch to a headwind and dog me all the way into town. I roll along hills plunge down short drops and wind my way through the countryside. About 20km from Menzies I'm passing through a valley of sorts no trees just brush for km's all around strong winds making sure I don't miss one detail. At the far end I can see a huge hill but as I get closer it turns to a series of short rises. I crawl up each only to be confronted with another about the time I feel I have had enough false summits I level out on a plateau. I cruise for about 5km on flat ground then plunge down a short hill I am now on the other side of the hills that defines the valley I crossed; another 10km finds me in Menzies.

There is not a sole in sight as I cruise into town not even a car parked on the main street. I pass several side streets dust devils blowing in circles as I ride bye I make a u-turn close to the RH which is closed and looks to have been that way for a long time, passing the hotel I see a sign for Groceries so I stop there. The Menzies hotel is not just a hotel it is a Hotel, Bar, grocer and Liquor store and the cute girl that is behind the bar fills all the rolls perfectly. I grab a bag of Potato chips and head out to the 'beer garden' to eat my lunch.

While I am sitting I am joined by 3 others 1 guy who lives in Menzies and 2 others who have just arrived coming from Yulara across the GCR. I listen to the couple talk about their trip how they went up north and the temps are great 30-35 deg C but not much to see, they even went across the Gibb River Road. I ask about them coming across the GCR and say I can't believe that they left yesterday and drove all the way across and are here now. They tell me that they drove 800km the first day camped at the Airstrip and are now here, they also said it was 'bloody boring nothing to see' I am not sure if they saw my jaw drop to the floor and my picking it up, I almost said out loud are you friggin kidding me!!! Nothing to see!!! Didn't you see all the Wildflowers and the Camels and the Kangaroos??? I wanted to slap them both, they drove through an area that hasn't looked like that in a hundred years and missed it all, they even passed Conrad the walker and didn't ask him anything just thought he was weird. Some people are all about destination and not about the in-between, I felt sad for them both.

Leaving the pretty young Bar, hotel, grocer girl to the sadness of destination travelers I fill up my 10L water bag and head out. The terrain has changed dramatically in just 1 day. Gone are the open fields and low brush of the past few days, I am now in rolling hills surrounded by large very tropical looking trees and dense foliage all around.

I rolled along for about 35km more then called it a day, I didn't do as many KM's as I would have liked but fatigue is hard to overcome without rest. The real beauty of travel by bike is a minimum rate of speed maximum amount of scenery!!

Mine site to Kalgoorlie

Sunday September 4, 2011, 50 miles (80 km) - Total so far: 10,682 miles (17,191 km)

Kal to Conservation Area....Or Animal kill zone

Thursday September 8, 2011, 58 miles (93 km) - Total so far: 10,740 miles (17,285 km)

Sept 8th Thursday 2011 6:32:28 58mi

The last few days in Kal have been extremely windy and not very warm today will be no exception.

A howling wind has kept me in a daze of on off sleep all night and I struggle to get out of bed and face the music or the wind in this case, I know it is going to be a hard day if this keeps up. My plan is to head south to Noresman make a sharp left turn and head due east across the Nullarbor plain, but as I lay in the warmth of my sleeping bag thoughts of another day in Kal fill my head; a warm Public library awaits me and I can linger there as long as I like. The reality is I'll have to get going soon and now is as good a time as ever, the bike doesn't ride it's self you know.

I have to put the tent away, not an easy task in a gale a tricky game of timing comprised of kneeling folding and clenching different pieces of the tent and fly in my teeth so it doesn't take flight ensues .folded rolled and stored I am ready at last. Decked out in my fine Showers Pass rain gear I am protected from the elements but not from myself and soon I find that I am sipping a coffee at the McDonald's staring out the window at a not so friendly rain cloud that is misting the pain of glass in front of me. I watch the swaying trees, litter blow across the streets in little dust clouds, pedestrians scurrying for cover holding onto their hats a lady holding her skirt down so the world won't know that she has pink lacy undies on, they could be sexy on the right figure but do nothing for me; but maybe for herself. Dark grey clouds dot the sky an occasional shaft of light breaking through betraying the true nature of the weather system. With a hint of blue flashing on the horizon I decide to leave my warm weather watching post and get my ass on the road.

I literally wobble down the street as I leave, the unknowing would assume I am drunk or just high on meds but those out in the wind know I am on the straight and narrow, or would be if not for the gusting 30km headwind. I am sure if snails were the size of humans I would be going the right speed, when the wind plays havoc on me I think about the book I am reading and a passage that defines Old Australia It used to be called the land of 'Plenty o time' and 'wait a while' seems like I have both, no hurrying along in a head wind, So I just put on the tunes and crank out a smooth rhythm while I play the 'keep the bike on the road' game.

I make one last stop before I leave kal I have to see the 'Super Pit' I guess it is a mining pit that has been made so big it has become a tourist attraction. I climb the 1km hill that leads to the lookout area. I have seen some large mine pits and this one is large as well but not the biggest there are larger ones in Nevada and Chile is home to the biggest, so I am not 100% were the 'Super' part comes in unless you mean 'Super Ugly' or Super bad for the environment' Or a Super Scar' on the Earth or 'Super not going to fill it in and leave it to become a 'SUPER FUND' sight' like the one in Colorado!! OK I will leave it at that. Big hole Yes Super NO.

The road leaving Kal is not like the one coming in. Flat with a few shallow hills lots of trees and wildflowers along the road make the scenery more appealing. I notice on one of the trees that someone has strapped a teddy bear; I stop and take a photo thinking it is weird but different enough to take notice. Later on I find a pig a duck and a couple of dolls hanging from a tree it all seemed so harmless until someone hung a doll from a tree with a sign under it that reads 'Wanted Miss Muffet' now I think it is just a sick sense of humor at work, luckily I find no more after Miss Muffet.

I stop for lunch in the sun that has been poking its head out now and then but the stopping only makes me cold so I am back on the bike in short time. I now feel tired and sluggish as the blood leaves my legs and goes to work on lunch. After a tedious 5hours and change I ride into Kambalda for a short break. I find a Woolworths grocer grab an apple and a couple of snacks. Outside the sun has finally come out and I have to strip off a layer of clothes. I take off the water proofs but leave on the leg and arm warmers as the wind is still a bit brisk and I am down to no body fat now to keep me warm.

I do another 20km before deciding to call it a day, the idea of camping under the trees sounds good besides this may be the last time as I cross the Nullarbor soon and I am not sure what to expect. I cross into a Protected Nature Preserve find myself a nice hidden spot and set about making camp. I am about half done with my tent set up when the Absurdity of the Nature Preserve sign and the one next to it hits me. According to the sign I am in a 'Nature Preserve' with that said I would guess that protecting nature would be the idea, but I noticed a sign next to the Nature Preserve sign that seems a bit out of place it reads:

'Warning 1080 bait, steel traps and Strychnine are in use in this area to kill Wild dogs.' The sign went on to talk about death and injury to self and pets if the traps were disturbed. Now if you're trying to 'Preserve nature' then why would you use Chemicals and traps to Kill Nature. I find this a major conflict of ideas; though I am sure it has a good explanation!! One that involves Humans displace.

Con Area to 15km before Noresman

Friday September 9, 2011, 64 miles (103 km) - Total so far: 10,804 miles (17,388 km)

Sept 9th Friday 6:31:13 64mi

The wind died in the night making for a pleasant night's sleep. Grey overcast and cold with lite winds await me this morning threating rain but it never comes.

When I left Kal I opted to take the less traveled old highway to Kambalda then link up with the current busier one today. Sure enough I am now on a very busy road with lots of road trains and crazy caravan drivers zooming around me, lots of people on the move. The scenery is much like yesterday though I do come across a large dry lake bed and a cool wavy section of railway that looks like a snake winding through the landscape at least for a short bit anyway. Long straights with hills at the far end seem to be on the menu for today and as I crest one I can be sure of another sometimes they are broken up by nice winding downhill's, while not long they are a lot of fun since I have been on 99% flat roads for most of my OZ trip, a bit of monotony breakage.

I see my first Echidna today such a cute little face, I would describe the rest of it but that was all that was left the body had been squished flat and a pile of needles left, sure would like to see an inflated one soon. Rolling hills this afternoon one climb after another, followed by long stretches of false flat. I came to a large section of burned out forest 1000's of acres gone the sapling are about 2 meters high so I would guess about 3-4 years ago but I never did ask to find out. The scene was a bit eerie crossing through not a bird or animal to be seen just the skeletons of wood reaching for the sky in a last desperate prayer.

Crossed a railroad track next to another large dry lake bed the mirage at the end of it looking like cool blue water, if one was thirsty it just might lure you to your death. I shed the cold weather gear as the clouds moved on, the sun warming my soul to a workable temperature. Unlike yesterday I have no arm or leg warmers on just the rays of the sun to keep me warm it feels good to lose all the layers and feel the sun once again. With the return of the sun my depression lessons a bit and I feel happier than I have in a while.

I stop just short of Norseman about 15km, figuring if I rode in today I would have to ride out again to camp so I might as well just ride through. I am hoping Steve is there so we can tackle the Nullarbor together but if not it's OK I have been alone all along anyway.

I find a nice camp spot behind a pullout and set up in a cool breeze with no clouds in the sky. It has been a great day.

Beyond Noresman

Saturday September 10, 2011, 62 miles (100 km) - Total so far: 10,866 miles (17,487 km)

Sept 10th Saturday 5:56:41 100km 62mi up 207 dwn 238

An eerie calm falls upon camp as the sun slips beyond the trees, taking with it the last rays of warmth turning the forest a pail grey in the fading light. The wind struggling to keep blowing finally gives up as the last of the sun slides beyond the curve of the earth, it's a calm I have experienced before and I do not sleep well. I am afraid of a repeat of my time in Kal.

A slow rustling of leaves in the trees awakens me. Looking up at the almost full moon now mostly obscured by the slow moving clouds I decide to put on the rain fly as the last time the wind picked up suddenly and quite violently. Nodding off almost in dreamland I am jolted back to the living when a strong gust of wind rocks the tent, I didn't guy it out and now wonder if I should have. I lay awake listening to the rainfly flapping with each gust, the trees creaking as they sway and the cold wind creeping up under the fly chilling me, thankfully this doesn't last long and the world falls silent again ..it's as if the watcher of the night was stirring asking on the wind if all is OK and with the replies of 'all is well' he falls into slumber with the rest of us.

The alarm goes off at 530am I snuggle in my warm bag a little longer before deciding it's time to get a move on. In the tent it is 40deg outside it is 33 so I dawn my cold weather gear and step out into the chill. As I make breakfast the light of day slowly fills in for the night as I look around I notice that I have another broken spoke, I guess I'll be a little later getting on the road. I watch as the sun peaks over the horizon and just as suddenly it's gone, the faint light is not enough to see the clouds that are descending until I am surrounded by a dense fog that settles over the forest like a cloak. The temps drop a couple of deg a chill races through my body as I look about at the soup I am now surrounded by. In the fog I pack and get ready as soon as I am done I set about fixing the spoke. As I am messing around with the broken one I find another now I will have 0 extras for the Nullarbor, lets' just hope I don't break too many more. Fixed and ready I make my way back to the road the fog is lifting so I feel it won't be dangerous to ride along the busy highway but just in case I put on my red flasher.

About 6km from Norseman is a dry lake that has been split in half by the railway and road, khaki colored sand stretches out in both directions for great distances, it makes for a cool looking pic but doesn't come out in the photos I take.

Norseman is a one horse town that is mostly closed on Saturday and completely shut up on Sunday all but the Pub of course. I stop by the only Caravan Park in the area to see where Steve might be. Unfortunately he is 2 days maybe 3 away so I decide to keep on riding since today is a warm sunny day with a tailwind something I have not had in a long time. I leave Norseman hoping Steve may catch me if he is doing bigger miles due to his need to get home soon.

Nullarbor

Saturday September 10, 2011, 62 miles (100 km) - Total so far: 10,866 miles (17,487 km)

24hr camp to Road side

Sunday September 11, 2011, 65 miles (105 km) - Total so far: 10,931 miles (17,592 km)

Sept 11th Sunday 2011 6:41:29 65mi 104km up285 dwn 444

27 deg this morning a frost covering almost the entire tent except were my head was , must be losing a fair bit of heat having no hair and only a beany cap on my head. On the road the temp is only 39deg by far the coldest start I have had to date in OZ.

Another stellar day so far cool temps sunny skies and a light wind make the riding sublime, and even though the road is for the most part straight today it is by no mean flat. Up and down all morning long some long shallow climbs others short semi steep ones followed by mirror descents, the sounds of birds calling dingoes yapping and the smell of earth, wild flowers and a hint of sea make the ride feel so tropical; even though I am meant to be in a desert region. I am still in dense trees until late morning when they start to thin out and even disappear completely in some areas.

I stop for lunch under a giant Salmon Gum. It's high thick branches covered in dense leaves making large patches of cool shade in which to pass the lunch hours. In the distance is a very steep looking hill that reminds me of 'sand hill' on the Dalton highway, the reality is it is an illusion like all the others I have seen so far imposing from a distance but up close not much at all kind of like confronting a school bully ones you are in it's face and show no fear they back away and become oh so small and insignificant.

I step into the road to take a picture of the tormentor I am sure awaits me, I return to the bike and put the camera away as I sit down a Dingo comes out of the woods not 15 feet from me, not noticing me it steps to the road looks both ways and then stands still. As the sun comes from behind a cloud it rays hit the red and tan fur of the dingo almost lighting it up, the shimmer of its coat is like sun reflecting off water; a stark contrast to the dark gray of the bitumen it stands on. Turning around it stops nostril's flaring head raised it sniffs the air, suddenly it's aware of my presence even though I haven't moved, it stares at me but for a moment; then like a bullet shot from a gun it's racing through the trees; another dingo joins it and I watch as the red colors of these beautiful animal melts into the Salmon Gums and is gone, I sit in silence mesmerized by what I have just witnessed I am sure this encounter will live with me for a lifetime, it was perfect!

Will the reallNullarbor please stand out!!!!

Monday September 12, 2011

Sept 11th back home My thoughts and prayers go out to those who lost their lives on this day and for those in the years that followed; and a heartfelt thanks goes out to those who continue to 'protect and serve' for they do what their country asks even if it asks 'too much'.

I awake every morning with the first inkling of light to the east, my tent always facing north to south so I can sit in the warmth of the Sun as it rises. At this hour birds are calling out in melodic harmony; each with its own song to welcome the dawn. Sometime a Crow will perch nearby and call out its own song, a mournful cry that sours the magic of the coming day; so I chase them away as best I can so I can sit with my coffee and enjoy the beauty that the light of the new day brings.

Warm today as I leave camp 54 deg such a difference compared to the very chilly morning of the last few days.

With a great tailwind I make the Baladonia road house and ask about water, she says I can have 2L as the water supply is very limited I hand her my 6L water bag and tell her to put in whatever she can, I do this because it always seems to come back full and this time is no exception she smile and hands me the full water bladder I thank her a couple of times and exit the store. On the way to the restroom I am stopped by an elderly lady; she asks were I have been and where I am going, her husband comes over and in just the space of a few minutes they are inviting me to stay at their home in Adelaide unfortunately I will be there sooner than them since they are headed West and I East. They seem very disappointed and try to figure if the timing can be moved around but alas it can't, she asks if I need water ad I give her my 10L bag and she gladly fills it to the top. We part having spent all the time we will together and hoping it's enough.

I stop at a rest area just before the trees disappear as I am resting I hear a faint bam bam bamlike a loud exhaust that seems to be getting louder and I know instantly what it is so I get out the camera. Sure enough a tractor pulling a small hut comes into view the engine making the telltale bam bam bam as it chugs along, I was told about the tractor hut combo weeks ago when I was on the Stuart highway apparently this couple have left Adelaide, traveled up the Stuart highway all the way west down to Perth and are now headed home all at the blistering speed of 32km and hour. Something different as no day out here is the same.

The tailwind stays with me until I start to leave the trees again and the road edges more left turning to line up for the 90mi straight that I will cross most of today. I snap a photo of the sign telling me I am about to cross 'Australia's Longest Straight Road' making it the longest straight road in the southern hemisphere second in the world to a road in Saudi Arabia that is 205km long or something like that I am told.

The wind is at my side as I start my crossing. I suppose I am now on the Nullarbor plains as the trees are now thinner meaning less of them and the forest have disappeared altogether. I come across 2 cool lizards, I suppose that's why they are on the road HAHAHA, but seriously they are called 'slow' or 'fat tailed' Lizards for both reason I find out sluggish on the moving part and fat as a thumb that's been hit with a hammer. One is copper colored and dark brown with hints of white specks the other is similar but has more of the white specks, they are not smooth like the blue tongue but have very pronounced scales, I am told you can pick them up but I don't try; they seem to have powerful jaws and I am not keen on getting attached to one. I shoo them off the road so they don't get squished, sadly I find more in the squished state than the inflated one as is with most of the wild life I see on the road at least 15-20 dead roo's a day!

Straight Straight Straight and for the most part flat flat flat is the 90mi section of road I am on. I find a camp area behind a telecom building taking shelter from the strong side wind I have been battling all afternoon. The wind lasted until the sun faded out then it disappeared. With the light still lingering I was not prepared for the moon rise, I stepped out of my tent for a nature call and was smacked in the face by the largest moon I have seen blood red and yellow in color due to the fires that have been raging all over OZ. The red orb slowly rose above the swaying green grasses of the immense plains before me, the full scale of it awe inspiring; I can only think of one moon that comes close and that was a harvest moon I saw as a kid, it was as if it was so close I could touch it, ruffling its surface with my hand then wiping the moon dust off by slapping them together I love childhood wonderment.

HMMM do I Smell????

Tuesday September 13, 2011

Sept 13th Tuesday 2011

5:10:36 105km 65mi up 170 dwn 175

An amazing tailwind to start my day combined with a flat road made me feel as if I was not really riding but being pushed along at the will of the wind, by 10:30 I had 84km under my wheels and only ridden 3:45 min, it would be a great day to catch up on journal writing and take a long break at the RH.

On the way to the Caiguna RH I passed a water catchment about 40km back and got 10L there just in case I could not get much at the RH. I was told as long as you buy something they are glad to fill up a cyclist water bags as long as they are not over 10L each. I asked about a shower and was told $3 but when I went to pay the girl would not take my Money so I got a free shower, maybe I smelled and she was just trying to get me clean not sure. I asked and she just said it was her last day and it was her pleasure to give me a free shower. I left after 3hours of charging computers editing pics and having lunch, I should of left earlier the wind switched 180-deg and I was now struggling into a direct headwind. As I will come to find out on the Nullarbor NO 2 days are the same and the weather will never be predictable at all!! They should call this the Null-a-bore 'NO Boredom' as you can be guaranteed that every day will be weather and terrain different.

I hatched a plan at the road house that with the full moon and the consistency that the wind will die after the sun goes down ill make camp and get up at 2am and do a full moon ride, this way I am assured at least 4hours of calm winds and No traffic to speak of and if it gets hot I can sit out the whole afternoon since I will have 3-4 hour in already did I mention that Nothing on the Nullarbor is predictable especially the weather.

Foggy day

Wednesday September 14, 2011, 54 miles (87 km) - Total so far: 10,985 miles (17,679 km)

Sept 14th Wednesday 2011 6:08:21 54mi 86km up 139 dwn 124

I awoke at 2am in a heavy fog the likes of which I had never seen, my headlamp lighting up the droplets of moisture in the air like snow under a streetlight. The tent was soaked as if it had rained all night, sleeping bag and riding clothes felt damp and heavy, needless to say I couldn't ride in the intense fog so I fell asleep until the chirping birds awoke me at 5:30.

The moisture had gathered on everything; spider webs once hidden by the very nature of their invisible threads stood out like warning signs, the trap exposed; impending doom awaiting any insect that ignores it. The rank grass is bent over by the sheer weight of the water gathered on long slender blades, my bike given a much needed washing gleamed in the gathering light. The sun eager to make an appearance shines yellow through the fog; a faint glow of the true fury of its rays is all to be seen as the clouds settle thick and heavy obscuring it from view. As I ride the damp air gathers on my beard weighing it down, droplets forming and falling off, at first I thought it was raining then I realized it was just beard water splashing off my jacket.

Strong shifting headwind all morning, it took forever to do 45km as long as it took me to do the 84 of yesterday. I stayed at the RH I made it to for 4hours waiting for the wind to switch when it finally slackened at about 130 I left. I did another 35km I did another 35km before I set up camp at 4pm; not a great day for riding good weather but harsh headwinds, I'll try again in the morning with my full moon ride if it works I figure I can get 5 more such rides in before the moon is not safely bright enough

Night ride on the Nullarbor

Thursday September 15, 2011, 82 miles (132 km) - Total so far: 11,067 miles (17,811 km)

Sept 15th Thursday 2011 6:31:15 81.87mi 131km

The alarm goes off at 230am and a very groggy Aaron rises to meet the day I mean night OK how about Nightlight? I lay in bed for a few minutes wondering if a Full moon ride is really a good idea. It's 45 deg out as I make my coffee; heavy eyelids and a strong desire to go back to sleep have me staring at the cup, I know that the eyes will soon be wide open as the first sips of the black stuff awaken my adrenal glands, at that point even if I wanted to return to bed I can't sleep with caffeine in my system, if I drink a strong coffee at 12 noon I will be awake until 11pm or later, tossing and turning in my sleeping bag. With the first long sip I am now committed its full go and no way a no go, bring on the night light, full moon Nullarbor ride.

I leave at 315am in the light of the full moon. The road is lit up like a runway the reflective white stripes on both sides guiding me along as the center hash marks are used for a place to ride, I figure this way if there are snake on the road they might be off to the side, less of a chance of having any contact. I use a small flashing rear red light for safety and have my headlamp on my head but turned off, I turn it on flashing mode if a vehicle approaches from either direction so they know for sure I am on the road, I am passed by a couple road trains that give me plenty of room and I know for sure as the first one passes that he has told all others on the road that a crazy guy is out in the dark all the better for safety. My Showers pass jacket has reflective piping so I feel I am pretty visible in any headlight and with the Moon so bright and the Cub yellow colour of the jacket it shines like a star. I love the Nullarbor night ride. It's very quiet; no birds chirping, crows crying or rustle of bushes in the wind as there is none! The only sound to be heard is the hum of my Schwalbe tyres on the pavement, the steady rhythm of my breathing and a very infrequent vehicle passing by. I like the way I feel like I am racing to meet the sun as the sky in front of me grows lighter the details of the world around me are revealed; like slowly opening a present each layer showing more and more until the urge takes over and you rip the paper away, the same when the sun rises above the horizon showing it all to me in glorious radiant light. I stop for breakfast at first light and am back on the road at 615am.

I have been seeing this really colorful green, black and yellow parrot but every time I try to get a pic it will fly off of the light is just not bright enough and the colors don't come out. As I am riding 2 of them fly over my head and settle on a bush across and behind me so I stop and carefully take out my camera; I am suing a Canon SX30IS so it has a 35X zoom or the equivalent of a 35 -800. I zoom in, just as I do one of the birds takes off and I know the other will be gone in a split second I push the shutter button and as I look at the place the bird was its gone and I am sure I missed it but as I look at the play back I not inly have the pic but I have the bird as it just takes off wings spread and the true colors of this beauty revealed .take a look at the pic it is the best description I can give it really is that colorful.

The wind picked up in my favor as I came to Madura pass. I stopped at the lookout to see what the hubbub was all about. From the pass you look out at what I would call the true plains a vast flat expanse stretching to the ocean just visible on the horizon. I drop off the pass and enter a new world I have not been in before; I am cruising for hours at 16-18mph but unlike the last few days of mid 80';s the temp spikes at 106 in the direct sun and 95 in the shade. I am always on the lookout for camels or kangaroos and as I ride along I get the strange feeling I'm being watched; looking around I realize I am! To my left a Kangaroo is just sitting about 40m off the road staring at me as I ride by so I stop and stare at it and we both just stare; me in amazement and it out of a strange curiosity I guess, I get out the camera and film it, as I do it turns and hops away apparently aware now that I am filming it become quiet shy all the sudden. It bounds through the field jumps and barely makes it over a fence as it's hind legs go out in different directions catching it's balance in midair. It stops hides then peaks its head up again to see if I have gone, I am still filming so it jumps further away hides in the bush and repeats its look and retreat until I finally have enough and leave it hidden in the bush.

I think they should call this section 'The Devils Anvil' even though I had a tailwind I was not being cooled by it so I was feeling the heat more so than on a headwind day. I almost wished but never said that a headwind would be nice on such a hot day, don't want to jinx myself. At 100km I stop for lunch under the only tree I can find at a rest stop, a small spindly looking thing that looks as if it is just hanging on to life it's only 11am. I stay for 2 hours and even with the break the temp has not gone down only gone up and my temp gauge reads 98 as I leave and 109 on the road I stop at another shady spot for a while but get restless with my superb tailwind I just can't sit so I am back on the road in a short time. I put on my arm cooler to cover as much exposed skin as possible as uncovered skin loses 25% more water than covered.

I do another 30km, stop at a rest stop for a few minutes the wind still pushing me hard so I don't stay long. Less than 5min later the wind suddenly and without a hint of warning switches to a full side/headwind the temperature dropping from the then 101 to 93 deg in a matter of minutes a strong sea odor on the air. With the new speed sucking headwind I decide to call it a day besides after 130km I had enough anyway. I find shelter at a tree off in the bush and set up camp only to break a tent pole in the process. I erect the tent without the cross pole and get inside as the flies are so bad I can't stand it. I need to figure out a way to fix it, luckily it only broke the inside adapter and not the pole so I cut it shorter use a bit of seam sealer, put the pole in place and by morning the sealer has hardened and the pole has worked fine since.

Nullarbor = Never a Bore

Friday September 16, 2011, 50 miles (80 km) - Total so far: 11,117 miles (17,891 km)

Sept 16th Friday 2011 5:23:43 80.7km 50.3mi up80 dwn 66

A heavy fog settled on me last night so the Full moon ride is off again, I sleep in until first light then get back on the road. With the Fog I put on my water proofs The Showers Pass jacket so I am visible and the pants because the fog is so thick it is like riding in rain anyway. I ride for about 2 hours before the first inkling of sun has burned through the fog I can see in the distance that it is either lifting or I am coming to the end of it, soon I am looking back at a heavy bank of fog and clear blue skies ahead of me. No wind this morning not until I get close to the RH. I stop at a water tank and fill up on 10L for 'boil before drinking' water and cruise over to the Mundrabrilla RH for a Coke and a bit of sit down.

A few people ask about my trip and I answer the questions as they seem to roll off a questionnaire aimed at touring cyclist, everyone has the same series, fine by me gives me a chance to talk to someone other than myself, though if I do just talk to myself ..I am always in good company! I only do another 30km then call it a day the wind picking up is tiresome. I find a nice spot across from a rest are and set up, making food is a challenge and I have named this camp 'Black Fly hell Camp' about 30 or so buzz around me land on my face and generally try my patients. I decide to make a snack I fire up the stove and soon hundreds of flies are all around most not bothering me just hovering above the ground like a thick black sheet swaying in the wind, rising and falling as they swarm moves, it is unsettling to say the least so I retreat to the tent after the snack is made.

The wind increases at sundown the tent rocking back and forth all night until 430am when it finally settles down to just a strong wind, it is blowing a tail so it should be a good day

Seeing the Sea

Saturday September 17, 2011