The following is a (nearly) complete list of the parts I will be using on my bike and why I chose to use them. They are displayed in no particular order. CLICK on any picture to be taken to the website for that product. (Most will open in a new window.)
I want to say thank you to the people at Wipperman. I purposely waited to get chains in hopes that I could get a sponsorship from Wipperman for their Connex chains. So when I went to the NAHBS in Indianapolis a couple of weeks ago I approached them with my ride and in a couple of minutes I was introduced to Stephen. He did not hesitate to say that they want their chains on my bike for the trip and offered me support. I am now very happy to say that I will be running Connex 8sx 8-speed chains. If you're not familiar with the Connex chains, you are missing out on a well-built chain. Wipperman uses a high grade nickel coated outer plate and, for increased strength, a stainless inner plate. The connector, the "Connex link", is super easy to put on and take off. Wipperman claims that this chain is 40% stronger than others on the market. It is for this reason and my past use of the chain that I have chosen them for my trip.
Schwalbe Tyres
I am proud to be riding on Schwalbe Marathon tyres, the most dependable, durable, long lasting tires for adventure touring. We will be using two types of Marathon tires, the HR-HS-359 and the Marathon Extreme.
I would like to thank Schwalbe for their generous help and for sorting me out quickly so I could get training. Thanks especially to Jeff Clarkson @ Schwalbe. He was super cool and hooked me up right for the trip.
AVID BB7 Caliper
The brakes I am using on my bike are the AVID BB7 Mechanical Disc brakes. Specifically, the bike will have a front 185mm rotor and the rear is a Rohloff version of a Magura 180mm. So, going a bit smaller, but still a better choice than a 160mm. For those not familiar with Avid, the BB7 brakes have ball bearing pivots so there is no bushing to wear out and therefore less maintenance. They also run a standard cable, so there's no fluid to leak or lines to bust, making them an easy fix in any country. The set up is simple with the 3 way self aligning caliper. So brake drag is not a worry. For the money and function, these brakes are a great deal and less prone to problems than a hydraulic. For more info on the difference between the two types of brakes, mechanical and hydraulic, check out the pros and cons listed on the following bike forum link: forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=266254
The Shimano SLX cranks were chosen for a few reasons:
1. The SLX series are 2X stronger than XT and only 48 grams heavier.
2. The crank arms on the 2 ring version have steel inserts for the pedals, so there are no
worries when it comes to stripping the pedals accidentally.
3. They have a nice finish (color and style).
4. I wanted an outboard bearing crank so that it would be easy to service. I (Aaron) am bringing
the BB tool with us and extra bearings so that I can do it myself anywhere.
5. I am able to run any 104 spaced chaining we want. I chose Stainless 36t
because it's steel with no ramps. I can flip it when it wears out and use it again. Therefore it
should last longer.
I chose the Philwood Stainless BB because I wanted a worry free low maintenance BB and the quality can’t be beat. Phil uses the highest quality bearings and waterproof grease, along with a triple seal to keep the service life long. The BB is a true work of art, smooth, quiet, and being stainless steel, it won't rust and shouldn’t break ever! It is a bit... okay, a lot heavier than a comparable Alloy BB, but for my purposes, it is the best.
I would like to thank Peter at Cane Creek. When I told him about our trip, he offered their support right away. Though I had already gotten the headset, I asked for a bunch of replacement bearings for the road. He was more than happy to give me a set on the spot. Thanks again Cane Creek!
After taking a good look at CK Headsets, doing a cost comparison, and looking at our future needs, Cane Creek was our first choice in headsets. CK Headsets are not field serviceable as far as if you have a bearing CRAP OUT on you. It takes a special press to remove the headset bearings, and for this reason we have chosen Cane Creek and there larger variety of headsets. I specifically chose the CC S-8 because it has removable (with no tool required) stainless steel bearings. So, I can replace both bearings with just a 5mm allen wrench. After a talk with a higher up at CC, I also found out about the black oxide coating on some of their bearings. The coating is supposed to be about as corrosion resistant as the stainless, so I should get a good long life out of the bearings and not have to worry about them rusting up. However, if one does rust up, it easily be removed it and another one can be put in, unlike a CK.
There was a lot pondering done over brake levers. I wanted light weight and strength, that mythical blend rarely found in bike components. So, I went back and forth between AVID and LX. After a cable pull test (to see which brake lever pulled the most cable per actuation), the LX won out. Not only did the LX win, but the lever itself is a well made sturdy design. If it gets bent it won't be easy to bend back, but it should stand up to a few bends before it fails. The mentioned cable pull test was just to see which brake would give the best feel with our mechanical brakes.
Here's another place that I am going to get scolded. Yes, a Thomson would be a better choice and I totally agree, but Thomson doesn’t make the rise I wanted and a solid face plate for the 31.8 stems. So, I went with a well built Ritchey. The length is 100mm and the rise is 84/96 or +6, as I will be angling it up. The bolts are not all the same size, 5mm for the steerer clamp and 4mm for the face plate. I changed the face plates to 5mm so it is all the same. The stem seems like a solid build with no welds to create a stress riser and a one piece 4 bolt stem faceplate.
I will be using a standard 185mm AVID Rotor. There's nothing high-tech about it. It's made out of surgical stainless steel. The dips in the outer edge are supposed to help clean mud, but who knows if it really works that well? It seems more like hype to me (Aaron).
These are plugs you put in the spoke holes on the rim side to prevent the tube from popping. The Velo Plugs don’t weigh much and are secured by a bit of electrical tape. I have always used Velox tape, but have found as of late that it tends to creep around the rim. These plugs can’t, so I figure it is a better way of preventing a flat.
I chose this particular mirror because I have used it in the past and because it is easy to get the right angle. It is secured with a 3mm allen key, so it won’t be easily stolen.
Ah, a thing a beauty. Rohloff has solved the messy set up of a derailleur. We chose to run a Rohloff because we believe it will hold up much better over the long haul and be less of a maintenance headache as the trip progresses. Before you warn me that it could blow up in the middle of Mongolia and leave me stranded (which I realize is a possibility), I would like to point out that the same holds true for a Shimano or any other brand. So for those who don't that know, I built my bike with the ability to run a regular drive train if needed. So, no worries! For a better idea on how this hub works check out this video on YOUTUBE.
ROHLOFF 17T COGS
I'm not sure if I need to explain to much about these. I have four, three spares and one currently on the hub itself. It is a mandatory part of the whole system. No other type will fit and they are expensive! (OUCH!) But, the plus side is that I actually have eight 17t cogs. How is this, you ask? Well, Rohloff wisely designed the cogs with a reversible feature. When one side is worn out, it can simply be flipped around and off you go down the road again! Simple and brilliant.
