California                                                                                                                            

                                                                                                                                                                                                  

California the Golden State

Sept 4th

My narrow downhill road continued today as I headed  to the California Border. I made one last small climb to the border hit the plateau and crossed out of Oregon and Into California. My goal for today the Redwood Forest and some giant trees. The farther I go into Ca. the bigger the trees are getting. It seems the Redwood Highway won’t disappoint and I’ll soon be dwelling amongst giants. I have to stop on a few occasion to stare at the amazing trees and take in the view this is perhaps some of the best riding I have done even if the shoulder is terrible and the cars are crazy I am in heaven massive trees lush undergrowth are my companions as I make my way to the Jedediah Smith state park. Myrtle BeachI finally have made it I pass the sign to, ‘Redwoods National and State Parks’. Shortly after entering I find a great swimming hole at Myrtle beach I head down for a swim but do not get in the wind is blowing a bit cold and I am a wimp. I will probably regret that decision later when I am crossing the desert and I have no water to play in, but for now I just sit and relax.

Back on the bike I make to the Ranger info center for the parks and find that the Jedediah Smith state park has Hiker Biker camp spots so I roll over to the par and find all the HB sites are empty and I can take my pic. I have never been in a Camp ground that is so beautiful! I pick site E imagine a large camp area with a flat spot nestled between two, two hundred foot high Redwoods at the entrance is a three hundred foot tree and the ground is soft and covered with pine needles, it is the utopia of bike camp spots, I stay for 2 days…..

Sept 6th

Leaving the RedwoodsBike witrh Massive was a hard thing to do; the massive trees lush foliage and peaceful state park are so relaxing I could have stayed for a week, but the miles don’t do themselves so off I go.

The road to Crescent City is mostly flat after the park; I make good time to town. The city is not what I would call a destination place and I was quick to get groceries and head out but before I left I met another cyclist named Rowan he is also headed south and we agree to meet up later at the campground. Leaving Crescent City I was assuming it was flat along the coast for a while but I was wrong, the road immediately turned up and I was climbing for the first hour into the Redwoods again. The 101 highway is a popular route for touring cyclist and I was sure I would see more as I rode south but I passed the day without seeing another cyclist. The miles went up and down in and out of the forest as I climbed above the beach then plunged down towards it, road along it and at times was so close I could feel the see spray come across the road from it. I stopped for a few pictures made it to the Redwood Grove that borders the campground and slowed down for a closer look at saw some of the largest Redwoods.

Pacific ocean  Crescent CityIn the CG I meet 4 other cyclists; I can only remember one name that of a Jolly man named Neil. He rode a recumbent bike had Arkel panniers and was headed form Portland, OR to San Francisco. He said he had ridden the coast in sections a fee times but never made it across that Golden Gate Bridge, this time he was determined to make it. Good luck to you my cycling friend!! The others all seemed to have started in Portland as well, one guy had a Cargo bike that was cooler than mine it also weighed the same, so I don’t feel bad about my bikes piggy weight. I talked for a while and made plans to meet some of the other on the road tomorrow. I would see only one rider the next day. The rest I will probably not see again soon

 Sept 7th

I leave the company of my new friends and make my way to the 101 and south. A few miles from camp I see a field with about two dozen Elk grazing and laying around. I stop for a while take a few pictures and ponder the nature of nature. The road today climbs and descends with a regular beat and I make good time to the town of Trinidad were I stop to eat lunch shortly after I meet up with a  cyclist from the camp we ride for a while until Arcata he heads south and I stop to make a phone call.

I call Uzi who had sent me an email with his number got his wife instead and made arrangements to meet with them at 5. All day it had looked as if it might rain but none had emerged as I sat in the center square of Arcata. Uzi and family ....playing  board game...what we american used to do until TVI passed my time watching the numerous backpacker and street people move in and out of the square. There are kids that look like they are 13, 16 years old hanging around with old dudes and scanky looking women, they all seem to be wandering without a purpose. In fact no matter where I went I was always surrounded by pack kids or grungy people with untrusting eyes. Shortly after my call to Cindy the rain came so I made my way over to their house and waited it out in the driveway with the dog who only quit barking when I fed it an almond.

          Cindy and her Daughter arrived shortly after I did, they invited me in showed me the room the shower and told me to make myself at home. Uzi arrived about an hour later, it was good to see him again and talk more. Uzi is a Dr. of infectious disease Spanish by birth but with a look of Sean Connery (who has played a Spaniard). Cindy is a great gal who teaches local history at a private school and loves her job, they live on the outskirts of Arcata on 4 acres, raise goats and chickens as well as kids and a couple of dogs. I noticed the cheese hanging from the ceiling in the house and Cindy gave me the story of Uzi’s cheese production and it trial and error. Around seven it was time to milk the goat, since I had never seen a goat milked nor milked a goat I thought it a great time to learn so I headed to the barn. I was a little nervous at first but after being shown the right way I gave it a go. So I am kneeling on the ground with this goats teats in my hand when the unthinkable happens I squeeze and milk comes out I do it over and over and soon I am milking away, Uzi tells me I am an natural shortly after this comment I give back the milking duties to Uzi who also calls me a wise man for knowing when to quit. Milking done we head back to the house Uzi with a half-gallon of delicious goat milk and me with a new skill, god I love life!

Sept 8th

Rain it was not supposed to rain for another week but here it is again, last night the forecast said clear and sunny…HMM. I eat a hardy breakfast say my goodbyes to this wonderful family and make my way out into the drizzle.

I leave Arcata with a un-clear destination. I have been thinking about going on to San Francisco and crossing that bridge myself I have about twenty five miles to figure it out, route 36 heads east then and I need to make up my mind. I ride along the coast rain coming in waves but nothing serious just sprinkling.Outside Arcat, Ca I stop in a small town looking out at a river I am not sure the name of I am alone for about five minutes when out of the wood work come a homeless girl, a chatty guy and two others who just seem to sit around as I am doing. It was at that moment I knew what I was going to do; I would head east and leave this coastal route with all its non-aloneness, I will go over the Trinity Alps range and into Red Bluff 3 days away. Besides all the people it is a busy crazy road with no shoulder unless you stay on the 101 and off highway 1. I am not sure why it is so popular it has its moments but taken for what I did I would not do it again.

I make my turn on the 36 and immediately I can see the road has no shoulder and a lot of traffic, just what I left. Lucky for me this only last for a little while as I get farther in the road mellows out. I climb for a while plateau, climb, descend and then enjoy a relaxed climb on a beautiful road with Redwoods on both sides the humid coast replaced by the cool breeze and lush greenery. I make it to my first stop on the 36 Grizzly Creek CG I am alone when I arrive and remain that way the entire night. The CG is located in a beautiful  stretch of woods next to Grizzly Creek, the oak trees in the camp are turning colors as the season moves deeper into fall, it’s the first time I have spent a night in fall colors I am pleased. As the sun disappears behind the huills the temp drops, night comes soon and I climb into bed another day behind and a whole new set of adventures await tomorrow, I fall asleep fast to the lull of the cicadas in the trees.

Sept 9th

I knew I had a pass or two in the next day or so what I didn’t know was that the road would just climb for the whole day and continue on this way for the next day. Well I guess if your going over a Mtn range it will do that.

I left Grizzly CG early to beat any heat that would come my way in the afternoon, I needn’t of worried the weather was overcast and cool all day. I had my first run-in with a severely steep grade 10% for 2 miles or 10% in 2 miles8% leading to the 10% turn I am not sure all I know is the road suddenly went up and stayed that way for eight miles, some of it so steep I was almost not able to ride it but thanks to the ‘Paper Boy technique” I made it up.

I arrived at the top of the first climb and savored the sweet taste of victory for the short 2 miles before I repeated the process again and again until I came to Dinsmore were a nice man told me I had only one ore pass small before the actual pass of 4800 feet. I had no desire to climb yet another p[ass today so I set off with the intention of climbing the last pass only until 3800 feet and saving the last 1000 for the following day.

I watched as the altimeter climbs higher, the terrain becoming more arid as I move higher and more east, the trees giving way to dry grassy plains with sparse trees. As the climb wears on I keep looking out for a camp spot I don’t find one but do come across a “Shoe Tree” with a couple dozen shoes in varied states of wear, age and type some pnk some black I notice a Converse All Star right shoe but cant locate the Left, maybe someone needed it? Shoe Tree in caliMy camp spot search continues but the road is fenced or has bad shoulder with no room anywhere. I pass the 3900ft mark and am now looking real hard for a place to camp when suddenly the road starts to level and a Vista view appears on my right side along with a sign saying I have just made the pass, my second large one of the day. Turns out I read the map wrong and the 4800 ft pass was 4090…..i am so stoked I jump up and down and really savor the 5mi descent that awaits me as well as the CG at Hell Gate.

Sept 10th

The morning dawned cold and clear, I packed up and made my exit as soon as I could because in front of me was more climbing. This section of the road is my favorite so far the grade is about 4% so the climbing though a lot is not terrible by any means and the road is in perfect condition for cycling and the weather is terrific. I climb higher and higher the view changing as I make my way east towards Platina. After about rode leading away from hell gate camp3 hours I stop for a coke pull out the map and realize I am about half a mile from the pass, so I re-mount and make my way to top. The summit is not signed and I pass without even knowing for sure until the road drops away. The thrill is short lived I soon climb almost all that I have lost, the road winding up and the ridge I am on opening up to reveal a beautiful view of the Mtn’s in the Distance and far off I can see the snow covered peak of Mt. Shasta.

Descending I finally make it to Platina were I stop at the local shop and have an ice cream. I talk to the lady running it and she informs me that I have a huge decent ahead at least  3mi and 7% that doesn’t sit so well since in know that if I go any lower I will have to climb out again to make the elevation match up to what I was expecting. Just like the lady said I screamed down the other side and waiting for me was a 2 mi climb. It was 90 degrees now so I pulled off and waited for about an hour for the sun to move a bit before I tackled the last climb of the day. As soon as I made the summit the road dropped and I found myself in a canyon with low gold colored hills, rocky outcroppings and fences on both sides, I had truly made it to the interior of California.

I had a hard time finding a camp spot for the evening everywhere I looked there was fence or if I pushed off the road it was full of sticker bushes. Central California....outside Red BluffAs the hour hit 6pm I was in a desperate mood, to far to make town and not a place to camp, I pedaled on hoping something would come up and finally I found a spot about 30ft off the road with few stickers and just far enough away vehicles would only see me if they were looking for me. Exhausted from the long day I made camp and a quick dinner in the ever fading light hit the sack at 8pm and slept through the night un bothered.

Sept 11th

Today I had only 25mi to go before I hit town but even so I was on the road early at 7am. I wanted to get to town early as the heat on this side of the Alps is a wee bit hotter topping out at 90+.

I made town by 10am and headed for a motel to get out of the heat. While I was checking in the lady told me about a nice Restaurant next to the Laundromat, so I headed over to wash some clothes and get some food. The Eatery is called The Cozy Diner and has some great food and even better prices. I met the Manager Leo, a real nice guy! The staff works hard to know the name of their customers and was always friendly. If you’re in the area stop buy get fed and keep some bread in your wallet. Try the Broasted chicken it is fantastic. I hope they are around for a long time it is good food for a fair price.

On a further note; Highway 36 has surprised me a lot it is not only a fantastic road to ride but has the diversity in scenery and terrain to keep anyone doing this road interested on a moment by moment basis.

Sept 13th

I awoke especially early this morning at five thirty, finished packing, showered and said goodbye to my cell. I headed over to The Cozy Diner for the breakfast Special (they have a couple) I had the $1.99 breakfast with an extra pancake and coffee, fueled and ready I rode away from Red Bluff and into the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

I know there is a pass today it sits over fifty miles away at 5255 feet; I won’t make it there today but I will get close. Highway 36 crosses the whole state of California from east to west or vise versa and so I am back on it again for the second half of my California crossing. The 36 starts nice and flat with a couple of gradual climbs after about 6 mi that lead to the major ones later. The fields on both side of the road are the color of golden wheat except it is dry grass about 2 feet tall with lava rocks strewn across it form an eruption no doubt, it looks rather baked like it could ignite if you looked at it wrong or gave it lip. Though I have only been on the road for forty minutes the temperature has gone up ten degrees it is starting to look like a warm day with the high clouds and blues sky all around.

I soon get into the rhythm of climbing as I go up one ridge after another the legs turning over and over again my heart beating in my chest resounding in my ears, my breathing in sync with my legs all is kinetic motion. I have a new weapon on hills the iPod not a new idea but one I was not able to do until now, I finally figured out how to get the files I needed loaded and keep them there…it’s a long story. Today was my first time trying the music while climbing thing and am not sure yet if I like it. I rode for about three and a half hours before lunch I only stopped because I knew I should eats but I wasn’t really hungry, must have been the pancakes?

Lunch tucked away I had a  problem I didn’t have enough water to make it to the town of Mineral, I would have to stop someone and get some. I rode for about 5 more miles before I dismounted and held out an empty water bottle up in the air to attract a motorist; I now know how Ralph must feel with Pono his Hawk, I was standing on the side of the road with a lure trying to have a motorist stop next to me and give me water, it worked on the first car. The car that stopped was driven by Dennis a California Ranger or Fireman or both? I am not sure but he was nice enough to stop; though a search of his truck reveled no water.  We had a short chat he is a friendly guy, thanks for stopping Dennis. He did tell me about the old Fire Station a few miles up the road that I could get water from, I thanked him and he left to check on his crew of workers. I tried couple of more cars then decided to make it to the fire station. I was at about thirty eight hundred feet with a thousand to go before I could camp and I needed water first so I put my head down cranked out the miles up the hills and found the fire station and a great water supply.

Water on board I continued my assault on the Mtn, which was becoming harder due to the increasing number of small black flies constantly buzzing and landing on my face. At times there were 20-30, it started with a couple no big deal but soon I was waving my hand in front of my face to make them go away so much that the next day my arms were sore from the exercise. I was frustrated to say the least and a couple times it was so bad I thought about taking a ride in a truck but as I thought about it more I began to understand, to give into these little pests now would be foolish as the pest later would be worse. I was aiming for a campground about five miles away with the hope of it having Hiker/Biker camp spots, it didn’t. I arrived at the CG and was astonished to see the nightly fee was $18 I grabbed more water and moved on towards Mineral a few miles up the road. About ¼ mile from the CG I found a blocked road on the left side that had a cable across the entrance and little sign of use so I skirted under the cable and found a nice spot about forty feet from the road. I set up camp and was making dinner when I noticed this person standing down the road towards the told truck and building at the far end about two hundred yards. I pretended not to notice, I was hoping I was imagining it, I wasn’t.

I took a good look and the person was coming towards me so I cut off the stove and headed out to meet this person I was hoping was the owner so I could ask if it is OK to poach and act real tired so they won’t send me on. Turns out Dan was just looking at the trees that need to be cut down, he works for a survey company and was sent to evaluate the property since it borders the road. Relieved we talked for a while and he mentioned he saw me on the road, interesting very few people I meet have ever seen me on the road, it has happened only one other time in Oregon a lady at a Subway Restaurant saw me on her way to work and now Dan…cool. Dan said the owner was never there and I could stay the night.

After Dan left I went back to listening to music and updating the journal for the day until Dan showed back up he wanted to tell me about a trash transfer station close buy, could be bears in the area and he said that just after we talked he was headed back to his truck when he heard a loud POP like a window breaking; he raced to his truck. Someone lowlife had just broken into it and stole his briefcase and lunch but luckily not his wallet or phone. I was shocked but he said it is happening more and more, I took all my stuff to bed with me and slept with one eye open and a hand on the pepper spray.

Sept 14th

COLD…SO COLD I woke up to 32 degrees in the tent. Today is the coldest it has ever been on my trip, I had ice once but the temp read 38.

I was slow to get up mainly because the sun was slowly waking and I could sense the thaw coming if I just stayed in bed a bit longer. It was nine am when I finally rolled away from my poached CG and headed into the town of Mineral which I passed almost not noticing is was so small. Just outside of town the climbing started and would not let up for an hour and a half. At the top was the turn to Lassen National Park which I would not be taking and a 6% downgrade for 3 miles I was happy to conquer another pass and cross over the Sierra Nevada Range.

End of Mtns heading into SusanvilleAfter the pass and the sweet downhill the terrain mellowed out and started to become a bit more familiar like I had been here before. I was having that feeling since I saw the turn to Chico on the 32. It wasn’t until I cruised down the last hill into Chester that it hit me I had been here before about 7 years ago on a bike tour from Reno to Ashland, OR.

I was remembering that there was a grocery store in town if it is as remembered I would be right though I felt strongly I had been here before. The store was there but had been remodeled so the inside was different, the outside stayed the same. I also went to the local bike shop I stopped in last time and the same kid Colby was working though he looked much older than the kid I had met years ago, sadly he didn’t seem to remember me stopping buy last time, even though we had talked about DH racing then and the California Circuit, he had owned a Titus Cycles bike and I had raced them…oh well I guess I am not that memorable… Whaaaaaaa!  I’m Ok... really I’ll be fine.

          I  stopped buy the local book shop to see if they had the book ‘The Road’ I had heard good things from Todd, they had it but for $14, I am going to try and find a used one. I left town my next stop being somewhere between Westwood and Susanville in about twenty miles. The climb out from Chester and its lake was a stiff one; I was passed by 2 road cyclist the guy said nothing it was the girl who said, not Hello but “that looks like a lot of stuff” why do people like to point out the obvious? I hear it a lot “you’re loaded down”! Sometimes I feel like saying “Damn is that the problem, I thought I left all this stuff at home, thanks for telling me”! Maybe I am just being crabby but man sometimes it’s like just say Hello! I know it’s a way to break the ice and start a conversation I get that !!

At the top of the climb I was greeted with a flat to rolling terrain that kept me at about 5100 feet for the afternoon. I made camp early after 55 miles and 5:45:45 of ride time. I wanted to split up the next 3 days to Reno so I needed the extra miles for the next 2 and a half days or I would be there on Thursday which might happen anyway depends on the terrain. Once again I find myself camped by the road but I think it is a good spot cars can’t see me form either direction unless they really look for me, and I have a flat spot with a nice carpet of pine needles to put my tent on. I was a little bit worried about the spot I chose but it was fine no one noticed me and I slept through the night.

Sept 15th

I left early as I could due to the cold and made my way to the top of  the pass, it's smooth sailing all the way to Susanville.

The ride was great and I only had 16mi to make it to Susanville, Ca. I rolled up and down after the pass and found myself on a three mile descent into SV, I love the payback. I was looking for a book store when I came across a bike shop with a cool name ‘Bicycle Bananas’ I stopped by this cool little shop and had a greatStop By the banana and se Yancy conversation with Yancy the MAN at the shop. He was easy to talk to and had a great attitude about bikes and the town he lived in.  The shop is small but packs a good amount of stuff bikes parts and even a few rentals and I am told by Yancy that in Susanville is some of the best single track in northern California. The store is new about 3 months but they have a sister store in Reno that supports them.  Good Luck Bicycle Bananas!!

I noticed a change in the environment as soon as I left SV, the area is flat, arid, with dry grass and low humidity like I haven’t seen yet and the wind is also howling luckily in my direction. This means I have finally found the allusive combination of flat sunny and tail wind, I can now say I have cycled with the big 3 in my favor I hope the trend will continue…and it does. I make my way to Doyle about 43 miles away along flat roads with 80 degree weather and the sweet push of a tailwind.

I stop for the night at an RV park just beforeDry lake outside Susanville....door step to the Desert Doyle and the kind lady Pat allowed me to stay for free and even gave me a private bathroom key for the night, I would recommend it but she said the place is sold and the new owners are taking charge next week so her kindness may not be there much longer. I made camp in a heavy wind it was great while I was riding but a bastard when I stopped, I had to wait until the sun went behind the mtn for the wind to die enough to cook, the wind finally quit around seven. According to Pat the kids running around on the 2 stroke shitty motor bikes are druggie kids, so I kept my stuff close to me and the bear spray at the ready and fell asleep.

Sept 16th

I awoke to wind and cold. Unfortunately the wind was a head wind and the cold was driven by the wind.

I packed; said goodbye to the more than dirty bathroom dropped off the key and pedaled away into a cold wind. It’s 47 miles from Doyle to Reno I figured it would take me about 4 hours to make the trip seeing as I was at 4100ft and had to gain 1000ft then drop down another 800. It took 5:04:04. The headwind lasted for about 12mi then suddenly there was no wind at all. I climbed a shallow grade for 20mi the terrain getting more arid and less treed as I got closer to the Nevada Border. Just before the 70 I stopped another Shoe tree....but not my last....!!at another 'Shoe Tree" this one not as big as the other one but covered with a great many shoes. I passed the hallelujah junction and route 70 which I rode several years back, I thought it would be mostly downhill and I was kind of right the road undulated up and down for the rest of the day, and I made it to Reno the ‘Biggest Little City in The World’ or some stuff like that.

I stayed in Reno for a couple days gambled the rest of my saving away in a bad run at the Slots and now have to sell my stuff to get to Phoenix….Not really I dint even drop a dime on gaming I was born in Nevada... I know better!!

Continued on the Nevada page